OK thanks. Yes, I've shown the photo to showerdoc and they said to remove the chrome plate and try to get a spanner on the two slots on the front of the cartridge as this one looks like its screwed in to the body. When I said that I didn't think removing the plate would help, they said if I can get some long nosed pliers I may get them past the plate and into the two slots on the front of the cartridge to get it unscrewed. I need to find some long-nosed pliers to try this.
Trying to remove shower thermostatic cartridge - help please
- Thread starter dipole21
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OK thanks. Yes, I've shown the photo to showerdoc and they said to remove the chrome plate and try to get a spanner on the two slots on the front of the cartridge as this one looks like its screwed in to the body. When I said that I didn't think removing the plate would help, they said if I can get some long nosed pliers I may get them past the plate and into the two slots on the front of the cartridge to get it unscrewed. I need to find some long-nosed pliers to try this.
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Are you taking the Pizz ??
Good luck with the fookin Long nose Pliers.
As previously advised ... Remove the trim to expose the Flats !!!
That's the advice I was given. What's the best way to remove the trim please?
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As with the symptoms in OP: ..... To test: first test hot water at a tap outlet if OK the boiler will be on full flame , then turn the tap to reduce the flow and the boiler flame should go down (modulating) before going off and staying off ie; with insufficient flow. If the shower does the same then its most probably the shower unit. Flame modulation can be observed without removing the boiler cover through the small window.
If when testing the shower unit when set at your required temp or higher and the boiler flame goes on and off etc then its most probably the boiler and usually the secondary heat exchanger, which should be removed to see what is happening inside.
If its lime scale then replace unit not worth de-scaling as the unit is a reasonable price, however if its magnetite, shown as black flakes then you will need a kinetic gun to get most of it out. Blow from the other end from where the flakes are as not to blast them into the unit.If the flame modulates then the thermistor, gas valve can be discounted though you must have a RGI to test same.
Before any of the above is tested make sure the water reaching the unit is 10c - 12c higher than what you have set the temp at on the unit as the unit wont function as it should.
If when testing the shower unit when set at your required temp or higher and the boiler flame goes on and off etc then its most probably the boiler and usually the secondary heat exchanger, which should be removed to see what is happening inside.
If its lime scale then replace unit not worth de-scaling as the unit is a reasonable price, however if its magnetite, shown as black flakes then you will need a kinetic gun to get most of it out. Blow from the other end from where the flakes are as not to blast them into the unit.If the flame modulates then the thermistor, gas valve can be discounted though you must have a RGI to test same.
Before any of the above is tested make sure the water reaching the unit is 10c - 12c higher than what you have set the temp at on the unit as the unit wont function as it should.
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