Tuya Thermostat Installation

[Taylortwocities]

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[Taylortwocities]

If only you had shown us that before!
The red and yellow/green go on the volt free contacts. live and neutral as on the old one.

Edit, make sure the fuse in the supply to the boiler etc is 3amp. It should be.

 

[ericmark]

The Tuya as with the Moes comes in different versions which all look very similar

Modbus is not really used in the UK, and NTC is the type of temperature probe.

And yet another where the Instructions come with many options and one needs to be very careful to select the correct version. It does seem the ME81H.31 does have volt free contacts.

 

[Mr_C]

Marvellous! cheers guys works a treat

 

[ericmark]

Out of interest what improvement is the new thermostat? I have been considering Tuya or Moes for my flat under main house, so I can see what temperature it is, rarely turn heating on in the flat, in main no more than store rooms, but would be interested in a report on how they work.

 

[Dazie]

Beware- your new controller may not be suitable for your setup.
At the moment you have L and N powering the thermostat and volt-free contacts connecting 1 and 3 when heat is required. Lines 1 and 3 might not be 240 volt, some boilers use an extra low voltage for that function.
Your new toy uses the L supply to the stat for signalling as well as power. More info needed- pics of the terminations at the boiler or wiring centre would be useful, as would make/model of boiler, are there motorised valves, that sort of stuff

Sorry for the 2 years late message, but had to ask...

By this do you mean that the new thermostat switches between connecting L to 2 (NC) when no call for heat, and connecting L to 1 (NO) when heat is called for? I ask because it looks like N is being connected rather than L in the link to the manual you posted: Moes Thermostat

I have an old non-condensing, non combi, open vented system which supplies switched 230V live from the timer to the thermostat which then switches that same live out to the motorised valve and ultimately the boiler switched live input. My current old thermostat only has 3 wires (2 in use for the live in, live out) and I was hoping I could use them as L input, N input (both to power the thermostat), and switched L output to send to the motorised valve.

Do you think this would work, noting that it would require L to be switched to 1 to call for heat (and not N as discussed above)? I would probably replace the switched live from the timer with a permanent live and use the timer built into the new thermostat - otherwise its supply would be cut every time the timer switched the heating off! (EDIT: or I suppose I could just leave the timer set to permanently on so the live input to the thermostat would remain permanently on?)