Next it was time to get the drains sorted, my little helper was on hand again
Two story extension and renovation - DIY
- Thread starter selfbuildextension
- Start date
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And finally get rid of those temporary drains, and get some walls built
Looking good mate, made some cracking progress with the block laying there!
One question though - you've got a lot of connections/turns in your 110mm drainage pipes which will all be underground (if yo have a concrete floor), are you not worried about rodding them (or the inability to)?
One question though - you've got a lot of connections/turns in your 110mm drainage pipes which will all be underground (if yo have a concrete floor), are you not worried about rodding them (or the inability to)?
Ah, I see air bricks... perhaps a suspended floor then.
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Some of the bends are temporary pieces which have since been removed, the end result will be a straight run along the back and a straight run under the extension to the road with rod point at end and then the chamber.
it is suspended timber and you'll also see i missed the air brick on the left so need to rectify that and sort out the brickwork over the one on the right...sometimes you do things and the next day wonder what you were thinking.
The main thing i have found is it's important to stop and think when you know something is wrong as it's much easier to rectify early.
it is suspended timber and you'll also see i missed the air brick on the left so need to rectify that and sort out the brickwork over the one on the right...sometimes you do things and the next day wonder what you were thinking.
The main thing i have found is it's important to stop and think when you know something is wrong as it's much easier to rectify early.
Good stuff, thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I'm 4 courses up with my block work building at the moment... as I'm finding too, there's definitely a good payback if you invest the time to think and plan, rather than just cracking on and having to rectify later
Yeah, I'm 4 courses up with my block work building at the moment... as I'm finding too, there's definitely a good payback if you invest the time to think and plan, rather than just cracking on and having to rectify later
Yes, the entire build is using these from foundation to wall plate on both skins. Around 1900 blocks, Heavy but cheap at £70p+vat. I couldn’t source engineering bricks due to lockdown so cracked on with these.
We have 50mm insulation in cavity and 70mm internal to meet Scottish regs.
time for an update I guess.
Block laying is slow if the mortar isn't mixed perfect. I've finally got it and it makes a huge difference.
had to set up a little sump for the existing shower/sink and gutter drain.
and slowly started building up the walls
got the laser on it, i'm impressed.
taking shape
first steel in
Block laying is slow if the mortar isn't mixed perfect. I've finally got it and it makes a huge difference.
had to set up a little sump for the existing shower/sink and gutter drain.
and slowly started building up the walls
got the laser on it, i'm impressed.
taking shape
first steel in
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Looks like a great project. I've recently finished a back-to-brick-shell refurb of a 1902 semi (all that remained internally was joists, rafters, 1 ceiling 1 timber bedroom floor and I think 3 walls with original plaster). I didn't do the brickwork and roof for the small single storey extension myself, or re-roof the main house, electrics, plastering, gas & boiler install, but did do everything else including making 7 new sash windows and french doors. I thought that brickying was outside my skill set, but have now, through necessity just built a brick and block 9 x 3.3 garage with slate roof with just help from significant other.
It's good to see others with an "I can do it" attitude
A tip and a question.
I think you have ventilated cavity walls on the house (looking at the airbricks?). I discussed insulation with my BC and in the end we used 60mm insulation backed PB on all external walls except for a couple where we could only realistically fit 25mm (which is about the same depth as the original plaster we took off). Insulated PB was glued straight to the brick with either PB adhesive or foam adhesive (depending on how flat it was) supplemented by a few mechanical fixings as BR. Been living in it for a year and our heating bills are brilliant. I would recommend it, but you would have to plan it in particularly for electrical install etc as all the socket backboxes need standing off the wall on blocks first. I wouldn't do this on a solid wall though, because from what I understand the ventilated cavity is essential to deal with any potential interstitial condensation caused by the colder brick wall.
Question - I see you are using mortar bed reinforcement. Was this your decision? Building control? or designed in by your architect?
It's good to see others with an "I can do it" attitude
A tip and a question.
I think you have ventilated cavity walls on the house (looking at the airbricks?). I discussed insulation with my BC and in the end we used 60mm insulation backed PB on all external walls except for a couple where we could only realistically fit 25mm (which is about the same depth as the original plaster we took off). Insulated PB was glued straight to the brick with either PB adhesive or foam adhesive (depending on how flat it was) supplemented by a few mechanical fixings as BR. Been living in it for a year and our heating bills are brilliant. I would recommend it, but you would have to plan it in particularly for electrical install etc as all the socket backboxes need standing off the wall on blocks first. I wouldn't do this on a solid wall though, because from what I understand the ventilated cavity is essential to deal with any potential interstitial condensation caused by the colder brick wall.
Question - I see you are using mortar bed reinforcement. Was this your decision? Building control? or designed in by your architect?
Looks like a great project. I've recently finished a back-to-brick-shell refurb of a 1902 semi (all that remained internally was joists, rafters, 1 ceiling 1 timber bedroom floor and I think 3 walls with original plaster). I didn't do the brickwork and roof for the small single storey extension myself, or re-roof the main house, electrics, plastering, gas & boiler install, but did do everything else including making 7 new sash windows and french doors. I thought that brickying was outside my skill set, but have now, through necessity just built a brick and block 9 x 3.3 garage with slate roof with just help from significant other.
It's good to see others with an "I can do it" attitude
A tip and a question.
I think you have ventilated cavity walls on the house (looking at the airbricks?). I discussed insulation with my BC and in the end we used 60mm insulation backed PB on all external walls except for a couple where we could only realistically fit 25mm (which is about the same depth as the original plaster we took off). Insulated PB was glued straight to the brick with either PB adhesive or foam adhesive (depending on how flat it was) supplemented by a few mechanical fixings as BR. Been living in it for a year and our heating bills are brilliant. I would recommend it, but you would have to plan it in particularly for electrical install etc as all the socket backboxes need standing off the wall on blocks first. I wouldn't do this on a solid wall though, because from what I understand the ventilated cavity is essential to deal with any potential interstitial condensation caused by the colder brick wall.
Question - I see you are using mortar bed reinforcement. Was this your decision? Building control? or designed in by your architect?
Thanks for the comments @mrrusty
Regarding insulation, to meet Scottish regs i am having 50mm in the cavity and 60mm on the inside of the extension. For the existing house unfortunately its 9" solid walls which I only found out when i went to install the first beam. I've read a lot of varying advice on internal insulation on the solid walls so I have not decided yet how to approach it. The house is surprisingly warm but I want wet underfloor heating throughout and insulation will be key to that being possible.
Mortar Bed Reinforcement - the structural engineer insisted it was required to prevent cracking in the render and because of the opening sizes on the rear wall, it does mean we don't need an expansion joint on the 8m wall though. Its added about £2k to the build and slows down the block laying a little too, cant really build corners as you end up with all these bits of metal hanging around your eyes.
When I said I was doing this myself all family and friends suggested it was impossible and I was an idiot, almost waiting for me to fail. That is some serious motivation for someone as stubborn as me
.I intend on doing everything except plaster, electrics and gas but we will see how it goes.
We are living in the house and plan to live throughout if possible so we can't really strip everything at once but for now focusing on getting the extension shell finished before winter sets in, then the focus will be getting the new showroom up and running and a temporary kitchen so we can demolish the current kitchen and bathroom.
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