Un-terminated steel conduit

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Doing a bit of tidying up in my new flat I have noticed that the new consumer unit has been installed in a strange manner. Flat was rewired completely a couple of years ago apparently (mixture of old and new colours says otherwise...).

The original steel conduit (entire flat is wired in conduit) has been left as-is and the plastic casing of the CU has been hacked to accommodate. This leaves the conduit un-earthed, and although it is not used as the earth, this doesn't seem right to me.


Should I do anything about this? Only solutions I can think of are to use pipe bonding clamps or piranha nuts on the threads, however I think it is imperial conduit (built in the 60's)

Oh and the 2.5mm water heater feed on a 32A breaker is on my to-do list!

Colin C
 
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:eek:

That's a shocker of an install and I would recommend getting a full periodic inspection report done by a reputable firm/electrician asap.

Unfortunately the likes of that is all too common but clearly not done by anyone who knows or cares about the quality of their work, and with no regard to current regulations (or those in force when the 'full re-wire' was done).

As part of the remedial work I would recommend earthing the conduit.
 
That's a shocker of an install

What in particular. Obviously the conduit hacked into the CU is one thing.

and I would recommend getting a full periodic inspection report done by a reputable firm/electrician asap.

I'll have a chat with my sparky mate about it.

Unfortunately the likes of that is all too common but clearly not done by anyone who knows or cares about the quality of their work, and with no regard to current regulations (or those in force when the 'full re-wire' was done).

You should see his sunk plastic backboxes for the convector heater FCUs so that they are level with the single-double converter sockets!

As part of the remedial work I would recommend earthing the conduit.

How?

Thanks

Colin C
 
That's a shocker of an install

What in particular. Obviously the conduit hacked into the CU is one thing.

Sheer mess, badly mangled sheath, lots of copper on show..

As part of the remedial work I would recommend earthing the conduit.


How?

I imagine these would work, but don't take my word for it: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRPEN20.html
It'd probably be better to replace the CU and do it properly, though.
 
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I imagine pirhana nuts would suffice, as would pipe clamps if the enamel was adequately removed and a sound connection made & tested.

Other things - looks very untidy, damage to sheath of incoming tails, not seeing proper labels, looks like sockets not on RCD, possibly other circuits which should be not on RCD, big holes in the top as you mentioned, general warning bells going off backed up by your comment about recessed surface boxes elsewhere etc. In that nick the chances of it having been properly tested are remote I would want to be checking the continuity, insulation resistance and earth loop impedance . . .
 
Piranah nuts won't work. As pointed out above, you would have to rethread the conduit ends as the thread will be diferent.

I agree with the rest above. Its a complete horlicks. The person doing the PIR should check earth continuity of the conduit. It may be that the conduit is not providing the earth path.
 
I imagine pirhana nuts would suffice, as would pipe clamps if the enamel was adequately removed and a sound connection made & tested.
Better to shorten the conduit, re-terminate it properly in an earthed metal adaptable box containing, if necessary, joints to new cables running the last few cm to the CU, or with plastic conduit glanded to it to contain the existing singles.


I would want to be checking the continuity, insulation resistance and earth loop impedance . . .
I would want to be demanding the EICs and the Building Regulations completion certificates, and if necessary demanding that LABC/TSO prosecute the w****r who did it all.

Colin - did you buy this flat, or are you renting it? If you bought it, was the seller asked if he had had any work done which required Building Regulations approval? If he lied you could try going after him for fraud.
 
get a periodic report done, and take it from there, we are all only focusing on the (quite vast) amount of problems in one room (your elec cupboard) and i can only guess that the rest needs a thourogh looking at.

The work to be done at your consumer unit is quite do-able by anyone with any experience although it may have bemused an avid DIYer or even a 5 day wonderboy 'spark' which may have made the balls up there.

Good luck with getting it sorted and keep us updated.
 
Out of interest, would you usually use single core cables when rewiring a property supplied by steel conduit like this flat?

If so, would you also run a single earth even if you had earth continuity to all points from the conduit? :?:
 
I can see old colours in at least one conduit - I'm not sure it was rewired.

I'd run a separate cpc - there's too much risk of someone b****ring up the continuity of the conduit in future mods.
 
According to the OP the conduit is not being used as the cpc atm anyway. (Still of course good practice to earth it)
 
Apalling work.

If fitting a metal box above the cu to join the conduits was impractical then a metal-clad consumer unit could easily have been used.

Holes in top of cu are way too big, IP whatever it is...

Tails hacked to bits.

Nearby switched fused spur looks like it hasn't been fitted with correct box.

Surely something there requires RCD protection...?
 
Thanks for replies. To clarify a few things:

Conduit is not used as CPC anywhere in the flat. Separate CPCs are run to all locations except lightswitches I think - will check every accessory tonight for CPC and polarity.

FCU is on correct backbox, there are just strange markings on the wall from what I assume used to be a bell transformer.

As to RCD protection, as far as I am aware, only socket outlets require protection, due to entire installation being in steel conduit. I will change the ring main 32A MCB for an RCBO.

BTW just out of interest - do I have a TN-S supply?

Colin C
 

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