Unable to turn off outside tap

[Longshanks]

Thanks. My main query was how two taps, supplied by a closed stopcock, could behave in different ways?

 

[Ian H]

Which is lower?

 

[Longshanks]

Thanks. Thought about that. The kitchen sink taps are marginally higher than outside tap. You wouldn’t have thought sufficiently higher to account for the difference?

 

[Longshanks]

Hi again

My problem is complicated. Effectively have three taps in a row which don’t work. 1. Main stopcock which doesn’t close properly. 2. Self cutting tap which doesn’t isolate supply to outside tap. 3. Outside tap which is leaking.

If either stopcock or isolating valve was working, I could fix outside tap in a jiffy. However, both seem to be knackered. Is there a fix for a stopcock that doesn’t close properly? (Not leaking)

Ta

 

[JohnD]

if it's just a dribble, you can repair or replace the outside tap.

Post photos, they may suggest ideas.

 

[Ian H]

For the internal tap you can close it in the street in a box like this:

 

[JohnD]

nice knob

 

[Longshanks]

Hi

I didn’t think the gizmo to open the pavement valve was readily available?

Thanks

 

[cdbe]

Hi

I didn’t think the gizmo to open the pavement valve was readily available?

Thanks

The ones I've done have just been a normal tap like an internal stop tap. I use an upsidedown line pin and a stilson or a piece of wood with a slot in it if it's not too tight.

 

[JohnD]

I use one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-universal-stopcock-key-36/71652
It may be cheaper at a plumbers merchant

It incorporates two sizes of crutch plus two sizes of square socket.

View media item 1506
View media item 1507

 

[Ian H]

Most of them can be done by hand.

 

[Longshanks]

Thanks again.

Will post progress update.

 

[Longshanks]

Hi again

Back home now. Obvious problem with outside tap- crack. Have bought replacement and want to replace dodgy isolating valve at same time. We had new kitchen about two years ago and only have circular inspection hole in back panel of cupboard under sink. See photos. It would be easier to remove and replace if aI could remove said panel. Should that be possible?

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

The back panel of a sink unit is usually just hardboard, sometimes thin chipboard. You can cut a big hole in it. A multicutter might be safest to avoid cutting anything unseen behind. If you make a square hole it will be easier to fit a removable hatch cover later.

The back panel keeps mice and draughts out, and adds a tiny bit of rigidity, but if the cab is screwed to the wall and/or the worktop, that will hold it steady.

 

[Longshanks]

Thanks. The problem is that the panel covers the area where the supply hose goes through the wall to the outside tsp