try starting a new post with Aberdeen engineers in the title you can always post a link to this post in there
Upgrading Central Heating to S plan
- Thread starter badri
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Hello all I still did not find decent engineer in Aberdeen. However did manage to trace the pipes with the help of Friend. Could you please see the attached diagram and advice what type system I have my friend reckon that its fully pumped system and easy to convert to S plan.
Please note this what happens when Potterton EP2002programmer operated.
When H/W is called from programmer: boiler switches on along with pump and supply hot water and when desired temperature is met Tap stat will shut and boiler will switch off but programmer H/W light still stays on.
When C/H is called from programmer 2Port valve will open and switch on and fire up boiler and pump and heat will be supplied to radiator.
What type of system is? and what is the best option for me to upgrade. Please advice. Thanks
Please note this what happens when Potterton EP2002programmer operated.
When H/W is called from programmer: boiler switches on along with pump and supply hot water and when desired temperature is met Tap stat will shut and boiler will switch off but programmer H/W light still stays on.
When C/H is called from programmer 2Port valve will open and switch on and fire up boiler and pump and heat will be supplied to radiator.
What type of system is? and what is the best option for me to upgrade. Please advice. Thanks
Sponsored Links
your system is fully pumped but not quite an S plan, replace the Ravi stat or what you call a tap stat (sometimes known as a mechanical thermostat valve) with a 2 port zone valve and wire accordingly and you will have an S plan
Wiring diagram here: http://octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/ with animation...
This is the standard S-plan wiring diagram. Your boiler should have a permanent live and the pump should be connected to the boiler's pump connection.
You will also need to arrange an auto bypass valve so that it bypasses the motorised valves when they are closed but the pump is running.
This is the standard S-plan wiring diagram. Your boiler should have a permanent live and the pump should be connected to the boiler's pump connection.
You will also need to arrange an auto bypass valve so that it bypasses the motorised valves when they are closed but the pump is running.
BTW I am now in a position to recommend the Drayton MiTime programmer. You could use either the 2-channel or the multi-channel for an S-plan.
Also available with wireless cylinder and room stats, although I haven't used these.
Also available with wireless cylinder and room stats, although I haven't used these.
I still have my concerns about the way it is plumbed.
Can the OP please add the open vent and cold feed connections to the circuit drawing as it is important where these are made.
If the 15mm gate valve in the pictures is a bypass, it should be replaced by Moggets auto bypass. If you forget it again I think Mogget will come and put it in for you
When you fit a motorised valve the bypass used by the Tap stat will be redundant and the 15mm pipes should be replaced with 22mm. A Lockshield valve on the cylinder primary return would be good idea although a gate valve can be used if you want - This is to balance flow through the cylinder coil when Central Heating is called for at the same time as Hot Water.
Can the OP please add the open vent and cold feed connections to the circuit drawing as it is important where these are made.
If the 15mm gate valve in the pictures is a bypass, it should be replaced by Moggets auto bypass. If you forget it again I think Mogget will come and put it in for you
When you fit a motorised valve the bypass used by the Tap stat will be redundant and the 15mm pipes should be replaced with 22mm. A Lockshield valve on the cylinder primary return would be good idea although a gate valve can be used if you want - This is to balance flow through the cylinder coil when Central Heating is called for at the same time as Hot Water.
If the 15mm gate valve in the pictures is a bypass, it should be replaced by Moggets auto bypass. If you forget it again I think Mogget will come and put it in for you
Not to Aberdeen I won't
I forget what I've said in which thread sometimes and can't be bothered to re-read it all!
Thanks I am thinking of creating 3 zones. so I need 3/4 channel programmer. How difficult is this for novice to take on? Considering wireless thermostat and cylinder stat installation?
It is certainly possible for a DIYer, I count myself as a DIYer even though I have been trained, and still sometimes do jobs for others when my health allows.
What you need to do, is do your research and be familiar what you need to do, and understand how it works before you undertake the task. You sill also need some knowledge of the regulations. For example switched lives that are not brown or red must be sleeved brown or red with tape or heatshrink to identify them. Also the whole system will need to be fed through a double pole isolator with 3A fuse (Ie an SFCU). Do you have any experience working with electrics, choosing cable sizes etc?
The Mitime system should be quite easy to set up, as the stats come pre-bound (ie they have been linked with the programmer). You'll need pack 5 for wireless control of two heating zones and one hot water zone. Pack 4 if you are using a wired cylinder stat.
Using pack 5 will be the easiest I would have thought, as you will not need to run thermostats separately from the junction box. Each output of the programmer/receiver would control the corresponding zone valve directly, then the end switches (orange and grey wires) control the boiler and pump. Makes for simpler wiring and less connections in the junction box.
If you can work a phone you will be able to work the Mitime programmer
What you need to do, is do your research and be familiar what you need to do, and understand how it works before you undertake the task. You sill also need some knowledge of the regulations. For example switched lives that are not brown or red must be sleeved brown or red with tape or heatshrink to identify them. Also the whole system will need to be fed through a double pole isolator with 3A fuse (Ie an SFCU). Do you have any experience working with electrics, choosing cable sizes etc?
The Mitime system should be quite easy to set up, as the stats come pre-bound (ie they have been linked with the programmer). You'll need pack 5 for wireless control of two heating zones and one hot water zone. Pack 4 if you are using a wired cylinder stat.
Using pack 5 will be the easiest I would have thought, as you will not need to run thermostats separately from the junction box. Each output of the programmer/receiver would control the corresponding zone valve directly, then the end switches (orange and grey wires) control the boiler and pump. Makes for simpler wiring and less connections in the junction box.
If you can work a phone you will be able to work the Mitime programmer
I consider controls as the easy bit - it's usually dead logical, not affected by cable falls or air locks . May need some consideration on cable size if they are long runs, through insulation and bunched.
From your drawing schematic you have separate manifolds on the flow for upstairs and downstairs so having a 2 port motorised valves before each flow manifold will enable upstairs and downstairs as separate zones. Your existing motorised valve would need to be moved to one or other of those locations.
However I repeat Where are the open vent and cold feed connections - It is important and may also affect the zoning.
. May need some consideration on cable size if they are long runs, through insulation and bunched.From your drawing schematic you have separate manifolds on the flow for upstairs and downstairs so having a 2 port motorised valves before each flow manifold will enable upstairs and downstairs as separate zones. Your existing motorised valve would need to be moved to one or other of those locations.
However I repeat
Where are the open vent and cold feed connections - It is important and may also affect the zoning.It is certainly possible for a DIYer, I count myself as a DIYer even though I have been trained, and still sometimes do jobs for others when my health allows.
What you need to do, is do your research and be familiar what you need to do, and understand how it works before you undertake the task. You sill also need some knowledge of the regulations. For example switched lives that are not brown or red must be sleeved brown or red with tape or heatshrink to identify them. Also the whole system will need to be fed through a double pole isolator with 3A fuse (Ie an SFCU). Do you have any experience working with electrics, choosing cable sizes etc?
The Mitime system should be quite easy to set up, as the stats come pre-bound (ie they have been linked with the programmer). You'll need pack 5 for wireless control of two heating zones and one hot water zone. Pack 4 if you are using a wired cylinder stat.
Using pack 5 will be the easiest I would have thought, as you will not need to run thermostats separately from the junction box. Each output of the programmer/receiver would control the corresponding zone valve directly, then the end switches (orange and grey wires) control the boiler and pump. Makes for simpler wiring and less connections in the junction box.
If you can work a phone you will be able to work the Mitime programmer
Mogget: Thanks very much detailed explanation looks like Mitime 5 pack is the way forward. Only draw back from the pack is does not allow to control through internet or phone...(May be I am being crazy)
I know you always mentioned about auto bypass and also upgraded diagram. I went had another look on the system I see there is by pass already and looks like 15mm pipe not sure it is auto or manual. Will post some picture tomorrow. Then again if I decide to it myself using Mitime, I will update the reviews. Thanks for all your help
I consider controls as the easy bit - it's usually dead logical, not affected by cable falls or air locks
From your drawing schematic you have separate manifolds on the flow for upstairs and downstairs so having a 2 port motorised valves before each flow manifold will enable upstairs and downstairs as separate zones. Your existing motorised valve would need to be moved to one or other of those locations.
However I repeat
Blagard: There is pipe from the boiler which runs to expansion tank believe it is vent and 22 mm back to boiler I assume it is cold feed. From cylinder 1 pipe goes up to the header tank and another one come back to cylinder. I will try to put some photos tomorrow.
with respect to upstairs and downstairs manofileds its not straight forward...I still need to trace which is going upstairs and downstairs but certainly they are set of 2 branches. thankfully our suspended floor are more than 1 meter headroom so can easily go and trace the pipes!! Thanks for your help again
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links