Upgrading cooker questions.

[beontheweb]

Hi, I am looking to replace my existing cooker with a range cooker and would like to find out if my fuse and wiring etc. is up to it?

The cooker details are as follows :-
Belling Farmhouse Range Cooker, Model No: 932
It has a Gas hob (so no electrical issues there!), but the rest is electric - a Fan oven, a Standard oven, a Grill and a Hotplate.
The details on the cooker state the following :-
Electrics Supply : 230V ~ 50Hz, 6.25kW

I have been told that the possible maximum Amperage can be calculated by dividing the Watts by the Voltage, in which case 6250/230=just over 27 Amps.
I have an existing Radial circuit from the Fuse Box (30A fuse wire) to the Cooker Point using 6mm cable, and then (I believe - I haven't been able to check yet!) the same size cable going to the cooker outlet. The cooker point also has an integrated 13A socket (currently not being used).

My questions are :-
1) Do I need to get anything uprated, or can I just connect the cooker to existing?, and
2) if I can connect to existing, nothing is notifyable?

Thanks in advance.
Paul

 

[ColJack]

27+13 = 40..

you can change the cooker switch to one without a socket..

also, besides the stuff already stated, are there any more details on individual parts?
it may be that 6.25KW is the total of all the parts but you cannot have the grill on with the oven etc...

 

[ricicle]

There is nothing wrong with connecting your cooker to this circuit but if you did have the cooker on full whack and decided to plug a kettle into the socket outlet then there is the possibility of an overload.
Havn't got me diversity calcs to hand but I think you will be ok.

It is not notifiable as you are connecting to an appliance to an existing circuit

 

[beontheweb]

Thanks for the replies,

ColJack:

any more details on individual parts?
it may be that 6.25KW is the total of all the parts but you cannot have the grill on with the oven etc...

Sorry, no other details available ... don't have the handbook!
Surely if 6.25kW is the total of all the parts, then why can I not have more than one part on at any time? ... am I missing something here?


ricicle:
So, if I was to change the Cooker Switch to one without a 13A socket, the existing 30A fuse and 6mm cable should be safe then?
Can you explain these Diversity Calculations many people keep referring to? I understand that they make allowances for the reality that people will never have all the appliances working at the same time ... but that is as far as my understanding goes.

Thanks.

 

[Steve]

Surely if 6.25kW is the total of all the parts, then why can I not have more than one part on at any time? ... am I missing something here?

No. Let me explain. Many cooker manufacturers design their products to be low-load units, for example a single oven. On most single ovens, the maximum POSSIBLE load is less than 13 amps. However, if you add up the element wattage, you might have the oven at 2.5Kw and the grill at 2.5kw. This is 5kw, about 21 amps. Because the oven is designed so you cant use the grill at the same time as the oven, it is safe to put it on a 13 amp plug. Most single ovens are like this, using a mecahnically interlocked switch on the control dial.

Diversity is why we can have 150 amps worth of MCBs on a single 100 amp consumer unit and supply. It does as you say, takes into account the expected usage of the installation in deciding the appropriate protection rating. Although the diversity rules for cookers, IMO, are too diverse

 

[ricicle]

Removing the 13A socket will eliminate the possibility of an overload.If a circuit is wired and protected correctly then an overload is not dangerous electrically but an inconvieniance (it may be dangerous if the equipment it is supplying is critical!!)

As I said I can't remember the exact figures for the cooker diversity but it goes something like this : 1st ##amps + ##% of remainder + #amps for socket outlet............awaits correction (I havn't needed to use it for years, please be gentle guys )

 

[beontheweb]

Crafty, thanks for that explanation.
I sure that I read somewhere that this Belling Range Cooker has some sort of safety control on it which "cycles" the appliance so that even though all of them maybe turned on, it never actually draws the full load ... can't remember where I read that but does that sound plausible/reasonable?

ricicle, thanks again. Looks like if I change the Cooker Switch for one without a 13A socket then I should be ok to go with existing ... great news!!!

Thanks.

 

[davy_owen_88]

awaits correction (I havn't needed to use it for years, please be gentle guys )

10A + 30% + 5A.

But as Crafty says it is a little too diverse. Try to go for full load if you can.

Davy

 

[RF Lighting]

As I said I can't remember the exact figures for the cooker diversity but it goes something like this : 1st ##amps + ##% of remainder + #amps for socket outlet............awaits correction (I havn't needed to use it for years, please be gentle guys )

It's in that on site guide in your back pocket

10A + 30% F.I. of connected cooking appliances in excess of 10A +5A if socket outlet incorporated into CCU

<edit> Too slow again

 

[Steve]

be, that sounds like a very good idea, and it would be good if they could implement this. Does it state anywhere in the manual what rating each individual element is? Most do somewhere. Though 6.25kw does sound like the total for the appliance you describe.

 

[beontheweb]

Crafty, sorry, don't have a manual at present. Cooker is not new - no manuals supplied!
Only got it last weekend, hoping to fit this weekend! All i've got to go on at present is a label on the appliance.
Phoned Belling today to order manual - it's in the post!

 

[davy_owen_88]

<edit> Too slow again

*marks this achievement on the calendar*

 

[securespark]

Just to put those diversity figures into context:

Oven: 6.25kW = 6250W = 27.17A @ 230V.

Take first 10A.

Then 30% of the remainder = 30% of 17.17 = 5.15A

Then add 5A for the socket outlet.

So the grand total (including the socket outlet on the CCU plate) would be:

20.15A.

Diversity allows that not everything will be on at full whack.

Many folk here would design a cooker circuit to handle flc (full load current).

in which case, you would have 40.17A. This would probably neccesitate replacing the cable with 10mm², and the breaker for a 40A.

 

[beontheweb]

10A + 30% + 5A.

But as Crafty says it is a little too diverse. Try to go for full load if you can.

Davy

Hi Davy, isn't the POTENTIAL full load 6.25kW (27 Amps), in which case the 30A fuse should cover it?


Hmmmmm..... looks like Securespark has just posted some excellent information.
Taking all this excellent information into account, and unless somebody has any real concerns with this, I think I should be ok to go with existing. I will probably also change the Cooker Socket to one without the 13A socket to be on the safe side.

Thanks to all for your input.

 

[securespark]

In that case, you can cater for flc, no worries.

I guess your circuit is not hugely lengthy?