Urinal pipework

[@paul123]

Hi all, I'm a experienced DIYer previous (Building trade) background...but not for many years now...my new work place has a problem with a leaking urinal and I said I would have a look ....its not overflowing and it's not leaking from trap...it drips down the wall from the back..its a twin urinal set up and the left one is leaking .however ,other pipework ive seen has compression fittings at each joint ,but this had no joints ...I was looking to cuf the pipe as marked in the picture ,and fit isolation valve, to remove just the left side...does this sound right.....?
Thanks

 

[mattylad]

Is there no isolation valve that feeds whatever feeds this pipe?
ISTR there is usually a cistern up above, can that not be shut off then emptied by flushing?

 

[@paul123]

Yeh I can turn it off at the cistern ....but how can i remove the pipework / urinal that has no fittings ,without cutting......?

 

[Burnerman]

I remember doing this at my school, over 20 years ago.
These are called sparge pipes (don't ask me why), come complete and made from stainless steel presumably for strength and vandal resistance.
The down pipe was 22mm, the horizontals 15mm so no problem with filling isolators.
The central coupling was permanently made, somewhat to my surprise.
John

 

[@paul123]

Thank you for the info , that's what i was thinking ,but just wanted to run it past someone else to get confirmation...one more question ...I believe it's better to use brass olives with the isolator valve rather than copper ,as brass is stronger against the much harder stainless pipe...?

 

[Burnerman]

For sure, stainless pipe won't compress at all, hardly ........ but brass olives are probably best - with some sealant if you want.
John

 

[@paul123]

Brilliant, thanks for all the advice ,will tackle it next week as the wall behind (other side of the room) is paint blistering and effervescent white patches