vaillant ecomax 824e no hot water

LOOKING INSIDE THE BOILER AND FEELING THE THICK PIPE TO THE LEFT IT GETS VERY HOT WHEN WATER IS ON THANKS
 
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Well now you have said this and with the readings you gave earlier I would say the DV is stuck so a lot of the hot system water is passing to the rads instead of all going through the plate HE.

New DV time methinks ;)
 
THANKS FOR THAT I SUSPEDED THIS AS MANY OTHER PEOPLE ON HERE SEEN TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM .LOOKING AT THE DIVERTER THERE 2 NUTS TO UNDO . WOULD I HAVE TO DRAIN THE WATER FIRST ,IF SO COULD YOU ADVISE ME HOW TO DO THIS THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
 
Isolate the heating with the ch F & R valves under the boiler, drain the boiler (system side) then remove the DV. Do not drain with the PRV.

Afterwards, open F & R valves, switch boiler on whilst holding the '+' button, when P0 appears use the '-' button to show P6, then press the'i' button.

Fill and pressurise to 1.2Bar. Switch off boiler. Switch on again doing the above, except this time when P0 shows press the 'i' button. Let the boiler self purge. Once finished adjust pressure back to about 1.2 Bar and use as normal.

Cover any electrical components if you think you may drip any water on them first.
 
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thanks for your help just 2other things can you tell me what system side means
do i need to buy any of that rust inhiber and if so how do i get into system many thanks for your help
 
System side just means the water that goes around the HE and the radiators, as opposed to the cold mains entering the boiler and leaving to the hot taps.

If you isolate as I detailed and there is already inhibitor in the system, you will not need to add more.

If you wanted to any way, I would isolate 1 radiator, drain this, add the inhibitor then open valves, bleed and top up system pressure again.

If using Sentinel X100, you can't overdose the system so as to cause any problems by adding another bottle.
 
if anyone is interested this is the email i was recently sent by vaillant tec centre regarding the problems i am having with my boiler
anyone interested in what they have said are welcome to comment thanks


Thank you for your email.



We would like to assure you we have never experienced manufacturing or design problems with the diverter valve on the ecoMAX/ECOmax range of high efficiency condensing boilers.



When the TURBOmax plus range was first manufactured in 2000 there were instances where, if the system had not been properly cleansed, then the diverter valve could stick. A slight modification was made to the part at the time to make them less sensitive. This may be the problem experienced by those in the internet groups.



It is difficult to fault find by email as we require feedback from an onsite engineer, however if you are experiencing problems with your hot water then you will need a local CORGI registered engineer to check your boiler, particularly the DHW heat exchanger. If your engineer requires technical advice from site then our technical line can be contacted on 01634 292392.



Regards



Katie Lee

Technical Assistant
 
But if its going up to 80°C then that rather indicates the plate HE is blocked as usual because the system was not properly cleaned at installation.

Tony

I told you this ages ago but you chose to disbelieve me and you are still thinking its the diverter valve.

I am surprised that you have not changed it by now!

Obviously its up to you what you do with your own boiler but most people would listen to an experienced boiler engineer rather then making up their own mind when they have no knowledge about boilers!

Tony
 
your right in what you said being a novice it looked a dificult job to
take the heat ex out a lot of people on here was saying the diverter
funny enoth ive just bought and had del to day a new divertor if i promise to lison to you now whats the best thing to do thanks for getting back les bremner
 
Fit it?

The boilers own diagnostics dont agree with going up to 80 C which you told me and say its only 63 which is about normal.

The spread of 22 C is a little wide though, should be more like 12-16C. That rather indicates a slightly blocked HE. But that will be inaccurate if the diverter valve is leaking.

As Vaillant say the modified diverters do not fail ( very often ! ). The old ones virtually all failed after a few years however clean the water was.

If the rads do get hot when hot water is taken then that means the diverter is leaking. The classic failure is for the diverter valve to get stuck but the 37 C water temperature indicates the diverter valve is moving correctly.

Unfortunately a blocked plate HE causes a greater pressure across the diverter valve and increases any tendency to leak. So the symptoms are somewhat crossing.

You really need to have the heating off for an hour and then run hot water for 10 minutes and see if the flow pipes into the radiators are geting hot. The left pipe at the boiler is not a very accurate indicator.

Tony
 
humble pie dont taste good so far its cost me 70 pounds .
i fitted the diverter tonight . no diference wot so ever . inside looked very black though . i know you will say told you so fair enoth .now wat
im all ears can that plate be cleaned out ?reason in saying this is that
my wife is now saying no proper hot water for 2 wks now hurry up
any help i would be gratful thanks les
 

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