As 831 said this is a known fault caused by a leaking divertor change the pcb
VAILLANT ECOTEC PLUS 831 - hot water sometimes runs cold
- Thread starter Aardvark35
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Interesting - I don't think the first statement can be true - the original diverter only wept a little and the water would, in any case have had to travel horizontally across a 1-2 inch gap and get into the PCB box which is just a plain plastic box with no path inside it at that point. Any water getting onto that surface would just run to the bottom and rip off.
The second idea seems very promising however - It does seem that the diverter valve just isn't moving - I wonder if there are two different motors or valve bodies with different lengths - so a "long" body with a "sort" motor leaves the motor drive disenagaged when it all seems to assemble beautifully.....
The second idea seems very promising however - It does seem that the diverter valve just isn't moving - I wonder if there are two different motors or valve bodies with different lengths - so a "long" body with a "sort" motor leaves the motor drive disenagaged when it all seems to assemble beautifully.....
here we go why ask for expert advice and then come up with ur own solution ffs. right the water leaks from the spindle the water travels up the spindle as the motor winds in and out,this shorts the motor and blows the capacitors on the pcb! no one said the water miraculously leaked through a plastic box.IT IS A KNOWN FAULT AS YOU HAVE BEEN ADVISED
ps if you have taken the motor off make sure you have engaged the ball an socket joint from the pin to the motor it does not just push on you have to hook it on tight
ps if you have taken the motor off make sure you have engaged the ball an socket joint from the pin to the motor it does not just push on you have to hook it on tight
RDS, if you want to start fiddling with your boiler then you can unscrew the diverter valve motor.
Then you can see if the shaft is moving ( if you stop it rotating ).
You can also manually move the diverter valve operating shaft to each position and see if the boiler functions as expected in each position.
Better though to get an engineer!
Tony
Then you can see if the shaft is moving ( if you stop it rotating ).
You can also manually move the diverter valve operating shaft to each position and see if the boiler functions as expected in each position.
Better though to get an engineer!
Tony
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Agile, many thanks for the helpful comments - I agree that it's not a good idea for me to fiddle with it - I was just trying to understand because the technician was despairing! Now I have the info from you and the others I know where I am and that I do need a new board.
Bunnyman: when I typed my original response, I had not realised that there was an additional reply identifying the "Known fault" aspect of this as it fell onto the next page. 831, whilst very helpful, did not mention that this was a known fault -had I seen the later post I would not have responded as I did. Your shouting and implied foul language is hardly conducive to a good discussion and helping each other to undstand what is going on. nevertheless, your explanation of what happens is very clear and now I know that a new board is definitely required - so thanks all round.
Bunnyman: when I typed my original response, I had not realised that there was an additional reply identifying the "Known fault" aspect of this as it fell onto the next page. 831, whilst very helpful, did not mention that this was a known fault -had I seen the later post I would not have responded as I did. Your shouting and implied foul language is hardly conducive to a good discussion and helping each other to undstand what is going on. nevertheless, your explanation of what happens is very clear and now I know that a new board is definitely required - so thanks all round.
Dont assume you need a new PCB yet. Although it probably does!
None of us have seen your boiler!
Just because there is a known fault does not mean thats necessarily what is wrong with your boiler.
The most common fault is a sticking diverter valve. That can be tested as I explained by pulling on the operating shaft to see if its stiff. But yours is said to have been changed already hopefully for a new one.
When fitting a new diverter the operation of the motor should be tested !
Its powered by a stepper motor and that cannot be checked with a simple test meter and need an oscilloscope to check the applied voltage and waveforms.
The only thing we know for sure is that you need a competent boiler engineer who knows how to test the relevant parts and diagnose exactly what the fault is in your particular case.
Tony
None of us have seen your boiler!
Just because there is a known fault does not mean thats necessarily what is wrong with your boiler.
The most common fault is a sticking diverter valve. That can be tested as I explained by pulling on the operating shaft to see if its stiff. But yours is said to have been changed already hopefully for a new one.
When fitting a new diverter the operation of the motor should be tested !
Its powered by a stepper motor and that cannot be checked with a simple test meter and need an oscilloscope to check the applied voltage and waveforms.
The only thing we know for sure is that you need a competent boiler engineer who knows how to test the relevant parts and diagnose exactly what the fault is in your particular case.
Tony
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So sorry my free advice didn't meet your expectations OP. Bunnyman and myself service and repair at least 20 of this model a week, we know them inside out. I guess you weren't to know that.
If the DV motor just buzzes and DOES NOT move the spindle in or out when turning the power on to the boiler, then the PCB 100% is water damaged and needs changing. Hope that helps.
If the DV motor just buzzes and DOES NOT move the spindle in or out when turning the power on to the boiler, then the PCB 100% is water damaged and needs changing. Hope that helps.
Thanks to all - I am very clear as to what the problem is now and understand how the leaking valve could damage the PCB, which - as you noticed puzzled me at first. The diverter valve is new, the motor has been tested (and a new one tried with no effect) and the signals to the valve are obviously wrong so - the Bunnymen are spot on, the board is dead - I will find out what the damage will be on Monday 
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
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