Vaillant VRC470f controls very slow temperature change

Um - but they're not doing what I need...

The temperature on the display doesn't get lower when it gets cold, and doesn't increase when it gets warm - isn't that what's meant to happen?

Regarding not understanding them, this is because no-one has explained them to me, and I found the manual very hard to interpret.

So please do give me as much information is you can :)
 
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I'm considering installing one of these on my boiler so interested in finding out as much info as possible.
 
these are great products and easy to adapt to any install, in fact every parameter needed is available if you know where to look..

Vaillant don't always give out good advise about this product because they don't know the install..

there is no one size fits all, but thats the attraction of them!

There aim, if they have one, is to provide a stable room temperature as efficiently as possible, that they do..
 
My current setup is the traditional room stat and 7 day programmer configuration. So in order for the heating to come on, both stat and programmer need to be calling for heat.

If I fit a weather compensator does the call for heat only come via the in built stat?
ie could the boiler fire up, say, in the middle of the night or does it still use an event programmer/timer as well?
 
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I suspect your problem is the auto bypass. A lot came out of the factory set fully open, your Group a service guy may have missed it.

Remove the font cover.
To the left of the pump, you'll see the diverter valve, on the left of this you'll see a screw sticking out. Wind this fully in (clockwise) and open out 2 1/2 turns.
On the buttons access the installer settings (in the book) password is 17, go to d96 and do a factory reset (in the book)
Set the heating temp to max, normally 75 degrees and leave the controller to do the rest.
 
the vrc 470 replaces all other controls, and tells the boiler and valves what to do and to what temperature...

unusual for vaillant to make that sort of error, I find their boilers and controls exceptionally reliable...even the ones made in the UK - although designed in Germany...
 
Can I fit this myself or do need to get a gas safe engineer in?
 
you need a gas safe engineer as you have to take the cover off the boiler for the wired version

but more than that you need someone who understands what it the 470 does, so that it can be set up properly and inform you of likely scenarios...

An install I did the other day had an outside temp of 8c, a target flow temp of 35, a flow temp of 35 and room temp of 20c...you may not be happy with all that and start fretting...thats why you need someone who understands the technology...
 
For understanding the technology I've got you guys ;)
I was considering the wireless version so that just plugs into the front of the boiler right? So no covers off and therefore no gas safe guy?
 
Realise I'm slightly late to the party (>7 yrs since the last update!) but I too have one of these v470f controllers and thought I'd share my experiences for others out there having problems.

The controller is flexible insofar as you can tweak lots of settings, but the documentation is very poor over what these do and the software within the controller is equally bad; I find that settings I sometimes enter are not stored for example when I go back in again. The controller is not faulty, it's just an old and bad design I think (I'm a qualified Controls Engineer by training btw).

I had huge issues with my house being perpetually cold and the rads only being luke warm despite the 'ask' i.e. desired room temp being way higher than the actual room temp. The guy that installed the system I think just hung the boiler on the wall, connected it up safely, and legged it without checking to see if it was tuned correctly. Result? The boiler was cycling on/off for about 5 yrs until I set about measuring the flow/return and outside / demand temps over time by interfacing into the eBus system to read temps and log them. It was hard work (took me about a year to get this home-grown tech working) but the results were staggering. The system was just bouncing on/off every few minutes throughout the day. I messed about with heat curves, modulation vs thermostat etc but got only minor improvements in the data I was seeing..

The big breakthrough came when I turned the auto-bypass valve (inside the boiler) a half turn to send more flow into the house rather than bypass back into the boiler. Instantly, the boiler had somewhere to drop its load (the rads) and it has fired pretty continuously (when there's demand) ever since. I can also hear the flow in the rad valves now - which confirms the flow is improved. I also had a huge sludge issue (non-barrier pipe was used in this 2002-built house) and so having a better flow helps drag the sludge back into my magnetic filter on the return, as an added improvement. The rads are nice and warm now and the house reaches its correct temperature within an hour or so each morning which is fine, and maintains that level fairly accurately.

The key message here is: if your boiler is stuck in a cycle (heating then switching off (hourglass in the boiler display)) then check the water pressure bypass inside the boiler is correctly set. Almost certain that mine was left at the factory default and having 22 rads fed using 10mm microbore, the circuit needed more pressure to get sufficient flow to drop the load into the rads.

In terms of the controller, I find Thermostat mode (Advance Settings) works best else it overshoots if in Modulation - but I'm still experimenting with different heat curves so that's still work-in-progress. The downside with this setting is it's a bit laggy at recognising when the room temp has dropped and firing up the boiler again. I have Frost-Protection only (not set back) for night times; such is the thermal mass of the house that the temp only drops 3 degrees if left off all night anyway mid-winter.

For anyone struggling with the 470f or a continuously-cycling Vaillant boiler I hope the above helps. It's taken me years to get it working well, mainly due to the lack of knowledge in the trade with these weather compensating systems but also due to the poor documentation of the controller. The boiler itself has been great over the years and arguably has done well given it's spent years heating up then cooling down just a few mins later. It's certainly robust.

Oh and before anyone says I shouldn't have adjusted the bypass valve, this is not a gas valve and has nothing to do with a pressure vessel (neither of which I would dream of interfering with without the relevant certification). I think adjustment of the bypass is within the grasp of most DIY-savvy homeowners (and in fact ought really to be accessible via a control on the front).

Finally, I'd say there's no substitute for diagnosing issues like this yourself. Get the readings logged (even if manually), make a small adjustment and re-measure. Every setup is different and it takes time to tune it to the house. I've had lots of frustrating moments with this system but it's been really rewarding getting it refined and working properly.
 
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