Vailliant Ecotec pro 28 tubes

[Steelmasons]

So the boiler faulted an hour after he left???
F.75 wouldn't flag up had the O ring been omitted from sensor....I smell BS..

 

[HootingOwl]

This is why you need to spend 60 quid a year having your local independent rgi look after and service your boiler. Insurance cover leaves you with your pants down every time, and you took a spanking this christmas.
Busted E/V? replacing the schraeder valve core usually sorts it out for 50p in parts. Most engineers keep vaillant pressure sensors as van stock because they fail so often, even on clean systems.
I had a call from someone who also had been let down by their insurers who merely oiled a failing fan instead of replacing it. They also had a chilly christmas when it croaked three days later on christmas eve Had they been a regular customer, I would have gone out at no extra cost to get it going.

The engineer involved is instructed to shirk off any work and bodge rather than repair. He is looking after the insurance company, not you. The only way of confirming contamination is to take a water sample from multiple points in the system and then send them for analysis. A photograph of the pressure sensor means nothing...

 

[Agile]

I always wonder why so many people prefer to sign up with these insurance companies rather than with a local engineer who will come out and correctly identify the problem and fix it regardless of what is wrong.

If I go to a dirty system then I have to deal with a dirty system!

Tony

 

[diycooper]

So the boiler faulted an hour after he left???
F.75 wouldn't flag up had the O ring been omitted from sensor....I smell BS..

F75 was coming up originally. After he lefter F73 come up which is sensor after he took o ring. Im literally going now to get sensor. I predict F73 will go and I will be back to orroginnal problem before engineerr went near it where I can get it on but after abit f75 will come up. A hr or so will tell the truth.

 

[diycooper]

Ok. I have just got back from Partscenter and fitted sensor, then I checked expansion vessel pressure which is 0.2 so the engineer had not even pumped it up unless there is a fault on that as well. I suspect he let it down. I have pumped vessel up to 0.8 bar as stated. Now the sensor fault F73 has gone and F22 is coming up, which is Dry fire . I suspect because its not topped up yet.

Before I top up can some please tell me if the o ring for the sensor goes on the first groove on the sensor or second. I have it on first. I do not want to top up and the o ring is ment to go on second (Back) groove and I blow the sensor ?


PLEASE REPLY QUICk

 

[gasbusters]

I was advised to top up inhibitor every 18 months, How , through towel radiator in bathroom.

Pardon my language but who the fook told you to do this? I've never heard any GSRI suggest anything like this.

Anyway in regards to the fault, what is the pressure showing on the digital pressure gauge? Now compare it to the manual pressure gauge which you will find if you take of the front cover. If the manual guage is showing its in the red, then your expansion vessel either needs charging or replacing.

As for the sensor, as the previous poster said, if the 0 ring was removed, water would be streaming out. As he also mentioned, the boiler cover is a load of ******s. i have been to several recent callouts where the customer had cover but the insurance company simply fobbed them off and capped boiler as unsafe as they couldnt be arsed to deal with complex breakdowns.

 

[gasbusters]

Could the sensor hall be damaged if water got on it or will that be fine now it dried out. It got abit of water on the connection what pushes int he sensor cause he took o ring ?

If you are not gas safe, you do realise its illegal for you to be doing these works on a gas appliance??

 

[diycooper]

Pardon my language but who the fook told you to do this? I've never heard any GSRI suggest anything like this.

Anyway in regards to the fault, what is the pressure showing on the digital pressure gauge? Now compare it to the manual pressure gauge which you will find if you take of the front cover. If the manual guage is showing its in the red, then your expansion vessel either needs charging or replacing.

As for the sensor, as the previous poster said, if the 0 ring was removed, water would be streaming out. As he also mentioned, the boiler cover is a load of ******s. i have been to several recent callouts where the customer had cover but the insurance company simply fobbed them off and capped boiler as unsafe as they couldnt be arsed to deal with complex breakdowns.

Pressure is showing 0.8 manual states 0.85. I have put a new sensor in , insurance man took o ring off old sensor. I have put o ring on first groove places in and put clip back in. Error message has gone. All I want to know is that the first grove on sensor was for o ring please. I take it second grrove is for when the clip goes.

There is no pressure on pressure gauge as I do not want to top up till I know the o ring for sensor goes on first groove. First groove being if you was putting into sensor slot then that groove would go in first .

 

[diycooper]

Boiler staying on. Cant believe a engineer getting paid by insurance could do that over crimbo for the sake of that .

 

[Agile]

The new sensor will have come with the seal.

As far as I recall, the seal is on the first ring and the next groove is for the clip?

Tony

 

[HootingOwl]

Boiler staying on. Cant believe a engineer getting paid by insurance could do that over crimbo for the sake of that .

You get what you pay for.....

 

[Agile]

Many of these insurance engineers are not paid very much and some must be unhappy in their job and take out their frustration on the customers.

Some are paid on the number of visits they make and so do their utmost to spend as little time at the boiler as possible.

That is why a self employed engineer is going to be far more helpful as his reputation depends on how he is perceived by customers and much work comes by personal recommendation.

 

[diycooper]

Ive got a TDS water tester here but I have lost the instructions. I remember reading them and it said first you test your tap water and then second you test your central heating water. It said if the range is inbetween something its fine. Does anyone know what that range was ?

Want to send to insurance to prove water was not contaminated.

 

[Agile]

That may not be totally technically correct.

Dirt in CH systems is a rather complicated subject. Certainly not something anyone at an insurance company will understand.

Nor will they be likely to take you seriously as you have been DIYing your repair.

Ideally you would have engaged an independent engineer as a witness.

Tony

 

[diycooper]

That may not be totally technically correct.

Dirt in CH systems is a rather complicated subject. Certainly not something anyone at an insurance company will understand.

Nor will they be likely to take you seriously as you have been DIYing your repair.

Ideally you would have engaged an independent engineer as a witness.

Tony

Ive got a local engineer coming on 3rd Jan. I just like to know to do it infront of a engineer when they was in my property .