Vauxhall combo oil leak and fuel supply issue

[burts]

Well I couldn't get the complete cover off due to spinning bolts. Towards the bottom had more oil but then it also gets on the water pump which is towards top.
Needto just get it in to a mechanic tomorrow. Not sure I could do that work myself

 

[burts]

Update
The leak seems to have stopped a lot
However van don't start no more. Changed fuel filter and it was only half full. Had it going for about 5 minutes after hitting fuel tank with my hand (not even sure it's in there) what does the half filter mean? Blockage, faulty fuel pump(although filter should still be full? )
Had the Pumo ECU changed about 3 months ago, since that went it I had some very minor issues. Maybe a faulty unit? But still wouldn't explain half empty filter?

 

[Burnerman]

The fuel filter must always be full. Any air means no start until the air is purged away.
So....it could be a pump fault, or maybe the dip pipes that go into the tank from the top have corroded and become porous? Who knows....either way, air is getting in when it shouldn't .
Can you see the top of the tank through a hatch in the van floor - or does the tank have to be dropped?
John

 

[burts]

I have no idea about the hatch via the back. Is it common sense to assume that if it was a faulty pump and not a blockage that the filter would still be full but just not circulate. All signs suggest blockage in the fuel line or air getting in ?

 

[Burnerman]

The pump in the tank has it's own gauze filter.....personally Ive never seen one blocked so I reckon the fault lies between the tank and it's pump and the main fuel filter itself.
John

 

[burts]

Yes I know it must lay between the tank, pump and filter now..... but if it was just an electrical issue (broke pump) then surely the filter would still be full up. I'm assuming that the filter is normally full even if not trying to start the engine ...??

 

[Burnerman]

The low pressure pump in the tank has the job to prime the fuel pipes and filter right up to the main high pressure pump driven by the engine.
If it fails, the filter won't be full, but we don't know if it's the tank pump packing in or not.
At this stage I'd be inclined to visit a diesel specialist, to avoid buying bits that you don't actually need and the first check would be to check the tank pumps output.
John

 

[burts]

Yes I agree,
My mate is my mechanic and can only look at it Friday. I only ask about these things as I have pretty good transferable skills from being a tradesman. I also have the manufactures book.
So... in the tank is a fuel gauge sender unit, which in this case is not priming the fuel lines, the main expensive electronic pump is in the engine and I'm not reaching that stage in the sequence yet?

So is a fuel gauge sender unit manual? Electronic? How to test .... or am I just talking in Riddles

 

[Burnerman]

That's about it really - the fuel pump sits in the tank......it may or may not have anything to do with the fuel gauge as systems vary. The chances are it doesn't run continuously but takes a demand signal from the high pressure pump on the engine, which tells it if it needs fuel. All pretty complex and therefore best to visit someone who has experience of this vehicle.
In tank fuel pumps seem to be around the £100 mark typically, hence the need for diagnostics first.
Be lucky!
John

 

[burts]

I spoke to a mechanic today, who told me to first take the EDU back to get it tested. So I unbolted it, then thought id unplug it and plug it back in, bit oil round it.
Then the Van started and has run for a couple of ten minute drives. On a couple of occasions sounded like it was going to not start. Now I'm lost as to whether start driving it or what checks they can do now etc

 

[Burnerman]

It could be a good move to send it away for testing I guess......clutching at straws as usual!
John

 

[MeldrewsMate]

The in-tank fuel pump must surely run continuously if it is to supply the main pump with a continuous supply of air free fuel, usually there is a relief valve post filter, that will 1. allow excess fuel to return to the tank, and 2. allow this fuel to carry air bubbles back to the tank.
Given this information I expect you to be able to hear the in-tank pump running with the ignition ON, and before cranking. The ECU/EDU will normally shut off the pump within several seconds if the engine is not cranked.
So get a friend, turn on the ignition, and LISTEN by the fuel tank.

To the oil leak, I have read references to the 'timing belt'. The combo cdti has a timing chain, running in a bath of oil. It follows there is a shaft seal between this oiled chain and the auxiliary drive belt (or fan belt). If this has failed oil will leak and coat the aux belt and its cover. It is not beyond the realms of possibility that the bottom pulley oil seal has failed too, but in a bigger way, leading to that heap of grotty oil lower down. As said previously, the sump has no gasket, it is sealed with an oil resistant liquid sealer, as is the water pump. If the wrong sealant is used it will leak.

The alternator has a spring loaded tensioner, from bitter experience I have found that an alternator change can be difficult if the correct method is not used to hold back the tensioner spring before removing the fan belt.

Hopefully this info will enable you to make an informed decision on what to do next...and forcing the outer fan belt cover makes a statement about your mechanical sympathies IMO.

MM