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Usually dirt on the ring causes it to stop working? Blow it out with an air line to ensure all the teeth on the "toothed ring" are clean.
To check the sensor:
Look for corrosion on the connections (green/discoloured connection in the plug) Clean as you go
If its a 2 wire sensor (Inductive) measure the resistance across the connections. Look for open circuit (no connection) or a short circuit (no resistance) on the Ohmmeter. If you have Autodata at college, it will tell you the correct resistance for the wheel sensor. You should get a small AC voltage across the 2 wires as the wheel turns. A voltmeter set to alternating current will test this, but it may be difficult to turn the wheel fast enough to generate a voltage while testing.
If its a 3 wire sensor (Hall Effect) you should get a square waveform from the "signal" wire (usually the middle one, but not always). The other wires are supply (+) and earth (-).
But to be honest if cleaning the teeth and the connections don't help, you need a sensor. Don't forgrt to clear the fault codes after you have done the work.
To check the sensor:
Look for corrosion on the connections (green/discoloured connection in the plug) Clean as you go
If its a 2 wire sensor (Inductive) measure the resistance across the connections. Look for open circuit (no connection) or a short circuit (no resistance) on the Ohmmeter. If you have Autodata at college, it will tell you the correct resistance for the wheel sensor. You should get a small AC voltage across the 2 wires as the wheel turns. A voltmeter set to alternating current will test this, but it may be difficult to turn the wheel fast enough to generate a voltage while testing.
If its a 3 wire sensor (Hall Effect) you should get a square waveform from the "signal" wire (usually the middle one, but not always). The other wires are supply (+) and earth (-).
But to be honest if cleaning the teeth and the connections don't help, you need a sensor. Don't forgrt to clear the fault codes after you have done the work.