vertical hot water cylinder laid down

[StudWall]

actually i have no idea where the cold water in is, maybe its round the back

 

[StudWall]

As dan says, its the vent for the cylinder. It could implode if it didn't have it.

but if i stood the tank up, the vent would be out the top and this outlet redundant?

 

[Dan Robinson]

Not if you had a secondary return or maybe needed to pump the shower.

 

[gigz]

Or if you didn't need the above you could just cap it off.

 

[StudWall]

not entirely sure what a secondary return is, or why i would need one

 

[gigz]

Its a hot water loop with a pump so when you draw water its hot straight away (very basic description)

 

[StudWall]

Thanks

this is going to be a fun project

 

[oilhead]

It would work better if the top 'draw off' connection had bee used as the cold feed, and the bottom 'cold feed' had been on the top side of the cylinder. at least you could use all the hot water that way. But with the flange for your hot water where it is, you cannot turn it round. I have seen many calorifiers on boats installed horizontally but very few where the installer has thought about objectively.

 

[doitall]

Needs a shorter cylinder or a proper horizontal one, that one could collapse, probably only the lagging that's stopped it do so already

 

[Steelmasons]

Cap the hot supply @ dome end and tee the hot water supply off the vent , depending on height of CWSC air may be dragged in via open safety vent , also check cylinder stat is at the base of cylinder.

 

[StudWall]

The hot water supply comes off both the domed top and teed off the vent, and after are joined together

 

[Steelmasons]

Valve off or cap domed end supply ,,if not a secondary return then it is pointless unless of course it is a secondary return to which I doubt when reading your discribtion regarding the tees , seems to me the idiot installer connected both hot water draw offs due to air being drawn down vent when a hot tap is used , if this is the case then use an Essex flange or similar for hot draw off.

Also move that cylinder stat down a good few inches.

 

[StudWall]

Finally got around to looking at this again today after a year of finding other things to occupy my weekends.

I took the advice and capped off the domed end, has had no noticeable effect, so now: cold water goes in the bottom where it should and hot comes out the top where the overflow pipe is.

Next job I think is to try and wedge some celotex between the 'bottom' of the tank and the frame, hopefully then my water will stay warm longer than a day

 

[Tipper]

From a purely mechanical point of view I would suggest that laying a vertical cylinder on its side is down right dangerous!!!

A vertical cylinder is designed for it to be supported on its base. To support it on its side it needs appropriately designed supports which yours will not have.

I hope there is no living space below that cylinder! Failure of that cylinder could kill and others above bedrooms have in the past.

Get it moved, get it properly supported or stood up and connected properly. The thought of it like it is scares me silly! Please, please, please don't leave it like that.

I'm amazed the so called professionals who frequent this forum haven't raised more comment and concern about this cylinder. Shocking!

 

[StudWall]

Good point, to be honest I had never considered it in that way.

The problem I can forsee in getting it stood up is that the top of the cylinder could easily be higher than the cold tank which feeds it, or not far off.

Im tempted to get rid of it and have a little 10l mains fed electric heater, because the only time we use hot water is for washing hands and brushing teeth