Wall-Hanging Basin Support Needed [Bracket] in SE5

[LondonerCOOPS]

Hi there, I was wondering if someone on the forum could help me:

Our Wall-Hanging Basin in the bathroom needs support since it is gradually coming away from the wall causing it not to drain quickly enough to avoid scum build up.

I have been doing quite a lot of research to try to find a solution, originally in terms of fitting a bracket, but I have still not found a solution.

The basin is made by Laufen and I have been advised that this model is not designed to normally work with a bracket.

The basin measures approximately, 590mm wide, 430mm out from the wall and 670mm off the ground. I have uploaded photos to illustrate the issue.

I understand that the pictures show the basin uses basin bolts with small nylon nuts holding the basin to the wall.

I have been advised to re-hang the basin using longer fisher/fischer bolt fixings‎ or M10 basin bolts but I am unclear if:

a) the problem is the existing bolts giving way or if the problem is the strength of the wall itself (when I tap it, it sounds like a stud wall - hollow sounding but solid in some places); and

b) if new bolt fixings‎ would need to go on to a secure fixing in a stud wall like a concealed frame or hanger system

I would prefer not to have invasive work carried out but also prefer not to have to sit the basin on a piece of furniture or have legs fitted.

Because of this, I thought a suitable bracket might offer a solution and the following product was the best I have come across: http://www.twyfordbathrooms.com/products/professional-products/accessories/bracket-400mm-pair/2777/ ‎

If anyone knows of any products such as a bracket that might do the job, any other ideas for a solution; or any recommendations for a bathroom/plumbing specialist who might have a solution, I would very much appreciate that information.

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[Madrab]

Those sinks were designed to use full sized brackets, one on each side or sit on a stand/table, usually too heavy to be just screwed through the back -

 

[LondonerCOOPS]

Those sinks were designed to use full sized brackets, one on each side or sit on a stand/table, usually too heavy to be just screwed through the back -

Thanks Rob.

These look similar to the ones these look similar to the ones I posted the link to and I would prefer the design of those.

Do you think they would work ok and provide a solution?

 

[BigSnoopy01]

what type of wall is it?

 

[Madrab]

Do you think they would work ok and provide a solution?

The ones I linked to are strengthened brackets so they need to be secured to the wall nice and tight. As a lot of the weight is transferred into a push against the wall by the diagonal they can carry more weight. The ones you linked to are different as they are half height brackets so the anchors need to be a bit more sturdy as there would be more weight pushing down and pulling away rather that down and against.

If it's a gyproc wall then use gravity or spring toggles or screw to the studs, if it's a solid wall then I'd use large blue rawplugs with the right size of screw.

 

[LondonerCOOPS]

If it's a gyproc wall then use gravity or spring toggles or screw to the studs, if it's a solid wall

Thanks so much for this - it makes sense. Is it possible for me to tell the difference? I did the tapping I described in the original post. Does that description ("when I tap it, it sounds like a stud wall - hollow sounding but solid in some places")
sound more like gyproc?

 

[Agile]

I must say that looks a pretty heavy basin.

In my view not really suited to fixing to plasterboard.

If it was mine then I would want to be invasive and fit noggins inside the wall so all the weight is supported on wood.

Tony

 

[LondonerCOOPS]

I must say that looks a pretty heavy basin.

In my view not really suited to fixing to plasterboard.

If it was mine then I would want to be invasive and fit noggins inside the wall so all the weight is supported on wood.

Tony

Thanks Tony.
Can you tell from my images or is there a way for me to check if it is plasterboard or otherwise?

 

[Agile]

Only by tapping it and being able to interpret the noises.

Traditionally plasterboard stud walls were built with vertical 4 x 2 wood on centres of about 16" with cross pieces at irregular heights but often two or three in each vertical span but normally staggered.

In an ideal world the layout and spacing would be regular and consistent. In a real world they can be very irregular.

Usually tapping can fairly accurately identify the studs.

There are some electronic stud finders. But I have never found them very easy to use.

Tony

 

[Madrab]

The other thing is that is could be old plaster and lathe, looking at the age of your walls/skirting, then that could be a possibility. It works the same way as plasterboard where there are vertical studs but then the lathe is attached horizontally and then plastered.

If the wall has held up for long enough till now with just those basin fixings then I would suggest that the full size brackets and normal fixings should be sufficient but without being there then it's difficult to guarantee of course. Belt and braces would be to take the basin off, cut a horizontal slot to find the verticals and then fit in a couple of horizontal dwangs to take the brackets and then board and fill.

 

[Agile]

Lath and plaster was probably used until about the 50s.

But because the laths gave horizontal stability they did not usually fit the horizontal noggins.

 

[LondonerCOOPS]

what type of wall is it?

Just trying to work that out!

 

[Steelmasons]

I must say that looks a pretty heavy basin.

In my view not really suited to fixing to plasterboard.

If it was mine then I would want to be invasive and fit noggins inside the wall so all the weight is supported on wood.

Tony

It's what's known as a Butler sink..

 

[Steelmasons]

Traditionally plasterboard stud walls were built with vertical 4 x 2 wood on centres of about 16" with cross pieces at irregular heights but often two or three in each vertical span but normally staggered.

Why are you stating imperial sizes as opposed to metric??
You're only too quick to correct anyone on here who refers to heat loss in BTU's as opposed to KW's so why are you stating imperial sizes???

 

[Tay7]

You can't be sure what the walls are made from by tapping alone.

Your description of sounding hollow in places but solid in others might be dot and dab too.

Whats the other side of the wall? Is there any sockets/switches you could remove to look into the wall? Failing that, drill a narrow pilot hole.

I'd be suprised if thats a stud wall.