Why are you stating imperial sizes as opposed to metric??
Quite correctly, because I was quoting the traditional sizes which were used at that time.
When timber was metricated, strangely the stock sizes suddenly became smaller!
Why are you stating imperial sizes as opposed to metric??
Where has the OP mentioned date of build?..or rather the size of timbers used?Quite correctly, because I was quoting the traditional sizes which were used at that time.
When timber was metricated, strangely the stock sizes suddenly became smaller!
Where has the OP mentioned date of build?..or rather the size of timbers used?
...
Lath was affixed to various size timbers , 8x2/7x2/3x2/2x2... 4x2 timber was mostly used for suspended flooring whereby the 4x2 was affixed to a timber plate which in turn was supported via 'dwarf' walls.I was referring to lath and plaster which was used on 4x2 timber before metrification.
You can't be sure what the walls are made from by tapping alone.
Your description of sounding hollow in places but solid in others might be dot and dab too.
Whats the other side of the wall? Is there any sockets/switches you could remove to look into the wall? Failing that, drill a narrow pilot hole.
I'd be suprised if thats a stud wall.
It's a brick wall.what type of wall is it?
I think I'd like to buy these but there was no link, only a picture. I have done a web search but turned up nothing.The ones I linked to are strengthened brackets so they need to be secured to the wall nice and tight. As a lot of the weight is transferred into a push against the wall by the diagonal they can carry more weight. The ones you linked to are different as they are half height brackets so the anchors need to be a bit more sturdy as there would be more weight pushing down and pulling away rather that down and against.
If it's a gyproc wall then use gravity or spring toggles or screw to the studs, if it's a solid wall then I'd use large blue rawplugs with the right size of screw.
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