Want to secure internal doors after an armed robbery

[howardino]

I could do with some help, my wife and 2yr old son were subjected to a horrible armed robbery. We no longer feel safe in our own home.

I now want to get the house as secure as possible.

She was sitting in the lounge and heard footsteps in the hallway, she got up but as she got to the lounge door, they barged in, pushed her to the ground (she is pregnant) and put a gun to her head!

I would like to get all internal doors secured, so whilst in any room a thumb turn deadbolt can be use to lock the door (for ease of use and quickness) but have a key to open from other side (in case toddler accidently locks himself in the room). In addition to this, I'm thinking of having another deadbolt with keys on both sides. So at bedtime (or when we are all away) we can lock the ktichen and lounge doors from hallway side. Thus if intruder gets into kitchen he will still need to negotiate a locked kitchen door. Not sure whether there is any mileage in having the 2nd lock having key access from inside other than to provide additional security if inside room.

Is this a sensible approach? Not sure what the best practice is in these situations. I could do with some pointers which are the best locks to go for.

Our external doors are upvc multi-point locking with cylinder keys. The external doors were locked, there was no forced entry. I'm thinking we may have been victims of lock bumping! To make the external doors secure from the inside (so we can sleep a bit easier at night), I've been told I'm restricted to using sash jammers as most other locks will interfere with the multipoint locking system or the structure of the door - is this correct? I've been looking for some sort of metal bar that can be placed into hooks either side of the door, so even if the door lock was picked, the metal bar would prevent the door from opening. Anyone give me some pointers on how I can secure the external doors from the inside?

I'll be looking at adding a whole host of security from external pir detectors all round the house which will set of chime inside the house, hopefully removing the element of surprise from the intruder back in our favour and let us know someone is on our property.

I'm very much a noob at all things diy, I'm just trying to get upto speed with the terminology and whats available, so apologies if I've used terms incorrectly.

Many thanks for all your help

 

[Alarm]

You can get anti "Bump" cylinders now that should be the priority.

http://www.highsecuritydoorlocks.co.uk/avocet/Avocet-ABS-Official-Supplier.php

Internal locks are all well and fine but an internal door can be literally pushed in. The doors are made to a minimum fire standard and are like "egg boxes" or composite material.

Get some lighting up, with chimes if you feel you need. These are available from Homebase I think.

The bars you are on about are called "Drop bars" and fit on the inside. Generally into the brick/timber behind the door, of if just plasterboard some fitting plates. A local locksmiths can provide those.

Sash jammers https://www.upvc-hardware.co.uk/safety-security-193/extra-security-189/sash-jammer-406.html can be bought and fitted immediately.

A decent alarm system with proper sounders with leds in to show they are live is another good idea. A search for a local company on the SSIAB and or NACOSS/NSI sites would get you your local ones.

You have an option of putting some mortise bolts or surface ones to the doors you mention at night. The easier to fit being surface ( ERA 807 or the mortise Chubb 8001). Just remember if there is a fire you need to get out fast.

With what your proposing I suggest a few trial runs in the dark and knowing where the keys to any locks fitted are and EVERYONE can find one for themselves.

 

[howardino]

Hi, thx for the quick reply.

The external locks were changed immediately on the night (before I even know what lock bumping/snapping was). They do appear to be anti-bump/snap as they don't protude out as much. (Locksmith/police didn't tell me about lock bumping - they made out I must have left the door unlocked as there was no sign of forced entry! - I was pretty sure I had locked it - they played havoc with my mind!)

Didn't realise internal doors were that so flimsy - we have windows in the lounge/kitchen doors which I guess makes it even more insecure. I might add some sort of sensor alarm to the internal doors which will hopefully startle the intruder.

Do you have a source for the drop bars - I've been looking, the only ones I can find are on ebay cheapest being £38! for a metal bar - was thinking of making one myself, got an old kids swing out in the garden.

I've ordered some sash jammers but as they are held in with 2 screws wasn't sure how strong they are, hence, the drop bar approach.

We do have an alarm system (albeit a fairly old one 10yrs) but as the house was occupied it was not armed. Also it doesn't cover extension done, so need to figure out how to extend alarm or prob just put some standalone sensors.

We do have a 300w pir lighting to the front but doesn't have a chime facility so my wife didn't hear them approach the property.

I'm taking a 3 pronged approach:
prevention: locks everywhere - the idea being if they get through one barrier they just meet another.

detection: I'm going to be putting pir's all round the property which will send chime inside the property and also send text to mobile phone. There doesn't seem to be that many modular products like titan RS products where you can add bits and bobs and they all work together, but even these don't tell which pir is tripped - so no idea which part of the house is being intruded on. I've seen (from a different company) a motorised 300w pir floodlight which will track a person - which probably at least would make the intruder stop in his tracks or scratch his head! But this would only be useful if we mounted it halfway down the drive - so not very viable.

cctv: invest in a good quality cctv system.

 

[Alarm]

You need specialist external detection not standard PIRs, You would have masses of false alarms.
Use the NACOSS/NSI site for someone who covers your area. I could give a name and number but it is not allowed. But they cover Nottingham/Sheffield areas and are good.

You may not have locked your door, do you have a set regime in place?
If my back is unlocked there is chimes set up so I can hear.

My sources would be more expensive after being made to measure and then sent to you.

CCTV, get a decent system as much as you can afford and have the DVR hidden and if possible off site recording.

 

[howardino]

Yes, that was one of my concerns regarding false alarms - last thing you want is a chime to go off thinking there is someone there and there isn't.

I'll give the NACOSS/NSI a try and see what they come up with.

Thx.

 

[foxhole]

Very unfortunate incident, but all security measure can be easily breached by ringing your door bell, unless you plan never to answer the door again.

 

[Alarm]

Very unfortunate incident, but all security measure can be easily breached by ringing your door bell, unless you plan never to answer the door again.

Video entry, a video spy hole connected to the TV.

Several methods to make it safer.

The main is no door chains, ask through the door if you have to. If services ask for the ID cards and call them. The workers will not mind.

Out of hours and not expecting them no access.

 

[OwainDIYer]

what's the permiter fencing like?

If you can perimiter fence the property then you might have a lockable outside gate, or a gate with an alarm detector on it to give you prior warning of someone coming up the path.

Even prickly plants in the borders can channel an intruder away from dark corners and into the detection area for alarm/lights/cctv

But to be honest, I'd move house. I'd not want to stay there one more night.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

You can live in Fort Knox if you like but its no way to live is it. get some counselling and move house, more security and living like a hermit is no answer.

 

[Alarm]

Question if I may as this is so rare to have a domestic armed robbery.

What were they after, Cars, Jewelery or do you have a lot of cash at home?

 

[^woody^]

Rather than get ad-hoc advice here, arrange an appointment with your local Police Crime Reduction Officer, for specific advice

Also, do a bit of googling about the " Sanctuary project " - which is a government/local council initiative for domestic abuse victims, but the principles will apply - particularly the concept of a 'safe room'

But be aware that internal doors and linings are not designed for additional locks and offer little resistance

Also, armed robberies are planned and determined, and have specific reason and purpose (over and above a basic burglary), and as such will not normally be deterred by the usual deterents

 

[flameport]

They do appear to be anti-bump/snap as they don't protude out as much

Anti bump / break etc. cylinders are constructed differently inside, how far it sticks out or looks when installed has no relevance.

If your old lock cylinders protuded a significant distance from the handle, the cylinders were the wrong size.
The correct size should not protude from the handle/door at all (or if it does, should be only 1 or 2mm at most).

 

[big-all]

the longer it takes someone to break in the longer it takes to put a fire out or for your collapsed wife to be reached by the paramedics if she is incapacitated

burglars dont like noise so flimsy trellice and thorney plants

 

[Alarm]

Anti bump / break etc. cylinders are constructed differently inside, how far it sticks out or looks when installed has no relevance.

It will if they are too long for the job, trust me.
I helped import the first professional snapping tool and all we needed was 1mm on a older cylinder and on the new anti snap 1mm near the "break off".

Cylinders should never protrude, in an ideal world.

 

[^woody^]

But don't all euro cylinders protrude enough to get some purchase on them as soon as the handles have been removed?