Washing machine blowing fuse

I wonder if things can last longer - it is just people don't want them to and there aren't many tradesman that have the right skills because manufacturers encourage the 'replace not repair' culture. This has done well, moved three times but has had three sets of bushes, two door hinges and a couple of other things that I can't remember. I found a repair guy that was good value for money and I even replaced the door hinge myself last time it went without too much trouble. It probably should have been replaced a lot sooner due to water efficiency etc and maybe it has finally reached the end.
 
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Worn through wire connected to the door interlock flashing over when the interlock releases at the end of the cycle???
I stand to be corrected, but I did not think the door switch conducted a mains voltage, I thought it was just switching signals from the PCB.
 
it would indeed suggest the environment (dampness in the garage )is causing the fuse to blow.
A 13amp fuse will take 13amps plus quite a bit more to actually blow it!
There is no way in this Earth that a damp environment will cause a 13A fuse to blow! A 30mA RCD may trip as the result of moisture, but not a 13A fuse.

So you can take that thought out of the equation. The machine is faulty, somewhere.
You raise a good point there, what rated fuse is being fitted? It seems a long shot, but I would have thought that if condensation was pooling somewhere it might create a path of low enough resistance to blow the fuse & at the same time blow itself dry so that when the fuse is replaced then the machine works again. It would be a strange failure for a component to be faulty one minute & not the next. Unless of course you have water leaking from inside the machine, but I would have thought you would see that pooling underneath on the floor. Perhaps this is one for Rocks 1, he is the Hotpoint expert, hopefully he will read this post & give you the answer.
 
I stand to be corrected, but I did not think the door switch conducted a mains voltage, I thought it was just switching signals from the PCB.

It's 16 years old, I would expect it to be more electromechanical than electronic.

I'm probably way off, but the door interlock is the only thing that springs to mind as the very last part of the cycle, assuming full power spin isn't causing some sort of problem. My grandfathers WM used to trip the RCD at full spin as the motor was faulty so he used to have to set the spin speed down to 800 to prevent that. A 30mA RCD is much more sensitive than a 13A fuse.

These are really simple machines so I can't imagine the fault is much, especially as it completes the wash cycle!
 
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If it only trips on spin check the carbons on the brushes or the spring in there. The little tag on the side of the brushes could be touching the casing of the motor , also blow any build up of carbon dust around the armature.
 
I have been visiting family away from home over Christmas but am back after New Year so will try then. I will post an update then and am very grateful for the advice. I think I will get a quote for fixing and go from there, with a view to replacing if uneconomical; although I could do without having to do that for another six months or so! Always happens at an inconvenient time!
 
Do tell us what the repairer finds! Hopefully their response won't be: 'Can't be arsed to look mate.'
 

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