Water Meter whizzing round
- Thread starter superstardeejay
- Start date
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arrived home tonight and there was a card pushed through the letterbox. Severn-Trent had been to investigate and couldn't get in...despite telling me the appointment was for next tuesday.
I can hear a gentle hissing from the rising main, obviously conducted from outside somewhere.
I am going to try and change the stopcock this weekend now I know I can isolate it in the street... though it's all boxed in at the moment...
I can hear a gentle hissing from the rising main, obviously conducted from outside somewhere.
I am going to try and change the stopcock this weekend now I know I can isolate it in the street... though it's all boxed in at the moment...
Next question , then regarding a new stop cock!
I glanced at the plastic service pipe yesterday, looked in the plumbing fittings catalogue and they only do 20 or 25mm, well it's thicker than 20 so I bought the 25mm stopcock. It's way too big! I got the caliper out and it's measuring an OD of 21mm.....strange. Is this right? It's an estate house built in 1976.
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I glanced at the plastic service pipe yesterday, looked in the plumbing fittings catalogue and they only do 20 or 25mm, well it's thicker than 20 so I bought the 25mm stopcock. It's way too big! I got the caliper out and it's measuring an OD of 21mm.....strange. Is this right? It's an estate house built in 1976.
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20 or 25 pipe is usually blue. You've got old alcathene pipe which is imperial, and I doubt you'll get a stopcock which will give you a direct connection without needing additional adaptors.
By taking the existing tap apart and using some releasing fluid and brute force you should get it free. Replace the washer and check the seat whilst you're there.
Next time you open the tap, turn it 1/4 turn back once it's reach the end of travel. That will stop is siezing.
By taking the existing tap apart and using some releasing fluid and brute force you should get it free. Replace the washer and check the seat whilst you're there.
Next time you open the tap, turn it 1/4 turn back once it's reach the end of travel. That will stop is siezing.
mfarrow should re-think his answer which is completely wrong.
MDPE pipe will have writing on the side and include "ClassC" or "ClassD" (blue writing is Class C and green is Class D)
Fittings are readily available from all good plumbers merchants and most builders merchants.
Saying that the stopcock only wants a service, if the OP slackens the packing gland and squirts a load of WD40 in the space the shaft should move quite easy, put some grease in the gap and screw the packing gland back in. job done.
MDPE pipe will have writing on the side and include "ClassC" or "ClassD" (blue writing is Class C and green is Class D)
Fittings are readily available from all good plumbers merchants and most builders merchants.
Saying that the stopcock only wants a service, if the OP slackens the packing gland and squirts a load of WD40 in the space the shaft should move quite easy, put some grease in the gap and screw the packing gland back in. job done.
I didn't say you couldn't connect onto the imperial pipe, I said you wouldn't be able to do it without adaptors, and unless you know what you're asking for at the merchants then it can be a confusing time for the DIYer (as the OP's discovered already so far). I've not seen a direct imperial to copper stop cock in ages.
I'd use PlusGas over WD-40 usually.
I'd use PlusGas over WD-40 usually.
I'm confused. The black service pipe has an OD of 21mm measured with my calipers. Can anyone tell me what size pipe I have? 21 doesn't translate to any round imperial figure unless the imperial is rated by ID? 
Imperial pipe is always rated by ID, metric by OD.
Hence with copper pipe, 1/2" ≠ 15mm, 3/4" ≠ 22mm, yet they're the 'equivalent' modern sizes.
What stop cock have you bought? The likes of philmac do a plastic stopcock which will fit easily on the 1/2" plastic and then you need a copper adapter at the other end. Problem is they cost about 3x as much as a brass stopcock.
Therefore trying to free the old one is the best option IMHO.
Hence with copper pipe, 1/2" ≠ 15mm, 3/4" ≠ 22mm, yet they're the 'equivalent' modern sizes.
What stop cock have you bought? The likes of philmac do a plastic stopcock which will fit easily on the 1/2" plastic and then you need a copper adapter at the other end. Problem is they cost about 3x as much as a brass stopcock.
Therefore trying to free the old one is the best option IMHO.
well I've dismantled all the plywood boxing-in..which has meant taking the skirting off as well...so now I have better access. I am tempted to dismantle the stopcock as you say, but I'd like the option of a new one just in case, so I want my facts right!
If I do get a 22mm tap to fit, will I be able to get the insert liner? If I use a pushfit, do I still need an insert? The compression fittings Ive seen come either as 'for copper' or 'for MDPE'. What's the difference? If I take this old tap off completely, will there already be an insert in the end?
I've just donwloaded a table, it says that 'imperial BS3505' water pipe with an OD of 21.2mm is a 1/2in nominal size. The OD of this matches my measurement...so I'm guessing I have a 1/2in imperial service pipe?
Call me thick but surely they should stick to one or the other
If I do get a 22mm tap to fit, will I be able to get the insert liner? If I use a pushfit, do I still need an insert? The compression fittings Ive seen come either as 'for copper' or 'for MDPE'. What's the difference? If I take this old tap off completely, will there already be an insert in the end?
I've just donwloaded a table, it says that 'imperial BS3505' water pipe with an OD of 21.2mm is a 1/2in nominal size. The OD of this matches my measurement...so I'm guessing I have a 1/2in imperial service pipe?
Call me thick but surely they should stick to one or the other
You don't need to dismantle anything, turn the water off and unscrew the packing nut as above, you can free the handle and put it back.
You should post a pic showing all the valve and the pipe coming out the other end.
You should post a pic showing all the valve and the pipe coming out the other end.
They have stuck to one size now, which is the 20mm or 25mm blue MDPE, but you've got a house built in the 70's.
If you're not going to take your stop cock apart, you need the following or equivalent:
If you're not going to take your stop cock apart, you need the following or equivalent:
I'm with Doitall on this one, service what you have already got.
Trying to fit a new stopcock for a DIYER will only end up in tears.
Andy
Trying to fit a new stopcock for a DIYER will only end up in tears.
Andy
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