Water Transfer Pump Questions

[amigo]

Thanks Just Pumps. I kind of get the idea and I like it as it would mean no need for water to be forced into the basement to be extract and instead it would be taken out externally. This is the same idea that Ian was mentioning earlier, but I didn't get what he way saying (SORRY IAN)

If I'm being honest, I've still got a lot of questions on my mind about this system, such as:

• how would it connect to electrical power
• If there is a rigid output pipe connected to it, how can pull it up without disconnecting
• Doesn't the sump pump need to sit inside a sump/put? But if I put it on bricks, how will water reach to it?

Please have a look at the diagram below....is this what you mean?

View media item 100916

 

[just pumps]

Yep, that`s pretty much what the guys have been telling you in one form or another.
To answer your Q`s
1 An electrician will find a power source to connect too. 2 Can`t see that from here can I! lol & 3 With a union joint before a non-return valve for the rare time the pump needs cleaning if say the inlet filter becomes clogged with debris.

 

[amigo]

Cheers mate.

Regarding Q.2, I was simply trying to clarify whether I can use a flexi output pipe instead of a rigid or if has to be a rigid drain pipe then how would it be possible to lift the pump for maintenance as that type of pipe would most likely be screwed/bolted down.

What sort of manhole/gulley inspection chamber/walls/hopper would you recommend I create? Would I have to build this from scratch or is there a cheap ready-made version? The trench is approx 6ft deep.

 

[just pumps]

Hi, sorry answer 2 was flippant, somewhere on your property will be drainage so the pump will pump the water to it.
Remember a cottage in a low laying plain area that got flooded out in a storm and what they did was put a gulley all around the property leading to a sump with a pump, it never got flooded again.

They installed a duplex system so if one pump failed the second one took over and their insurance premium came down a heck of a lot.

Go rigid not flexi with pipe size to suit the pump MI`s, the union will be near the top of the chamber so reachable from ground level, once disconnected the pump and the pipe connected to the pump come out as one. The manhole with the pump inside can be either brick or plastic with various inlets you cut open to suit your application.

 

[amigo]

That's really appreciated, thanks.

I have a hypothetical question. Submersible water pumps have a float switch, right?

So is there such a float switch which can be attached/wired to the end of a pipe?

 

[just pumps]

That's really appreciated, thanks.

I have a hypothetical question. Submersible water pumps have a float switch, right?

So is there such a float switch which can be attached/wired to the end of a pipe?

Not sure I understand where you are going now. The float switch needs to be close to the inlet of the pump. A float switch has a ball bearing inside so as the float rises the ball goes to the lowest point where there are 2 connectors, once contact is made the pump operates. There are air pressure switches as well.

 

[amigo]

Not sure I understand where you are going now. The float switch needs to be close to the inlet of the pump. A float switch has a ball bearing inside so as the float rises the ball goes to the lowest point where there are 2 connectors, once contact is made the pump operates. There are air pressure switches as well.

Sorry for the confusion mate. I'm just thinking outside the box and just exploring other ideas and options ...As the saying goes "never place all eggs in one basket", lol!

All I was thinking is whether I can use a pipe with a float switch attached at the end of it. I then drop that pipe into the chamber, connect the other end of pipe and the float-switch to a non-submersible pump which is located inside the basement.

Something similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liquid-F...nk-Controller-Sensor-W-75-Cable/132227630720?


As I said though...it's only an idea and most likely I'm going to stick to your plan. I'm just looking at the most convenient solution

 

[just pumps]

Did you notice that the bottom of the pump is still below the water level in the chamber and there is a one way valve in that diagram? So why have 2 deep holes in the ground when then pump in the chamber is easy to remove as I`ve already explained plus there is no chance of the pump air locking as there is in that diagram.
The most convenient solution is the one where pump manufactures have designed and tested a pump in a box all in one solution for you.

KIS - Keep It Simple!

 

[amigo]

Yes, your right as submersible pump method is the best one. My apologies as there is another issue which I totally forgot to mention.

How big of a chamber will I need? The reason I ask is because there is a main gas pipe approx 1 foot away from the house wall, running along the trench. I assume this will be in the way?

 

[just pumps]

Sorry can`t advise on that but presume water can be diverted.

 

[amigo]

No worries. I'll just have to think of a way to build around it.

Can I ask you a general question?

I've read on quite a few forums that if the basement is old and water is entering that it should not be disturbed and water should simply be collected using the usual methods.

What sort of damage can externally standing water do to the foundation?

 

[just pumps]

I've no idea

 

[bernardgreen]

What sort of damage can externally standing water do to the foundation?

Standing water in general does little if any damage to foundations.

Water flowing around foundations can adversely affect the foundations.

I've read on quite a few forums that if the basement is old and water is entering that it should not be disturbed and water should simply be collected using the usual methods.

That is valid and sensible advice, applies equally to most newly created basements.

 

[amigo]

Jump pump - No worries mate.

Bernard - Upon reading what you've just wrote, my heart has just sank mate . If I had known this all along, I would never have let the builder dig out a trench and would have simply left it alone. I spoke to him this morning and due to the stress, I ended up arguing with him as not only has he taken £2000, but he's now coming up with ridiculous ideas, such as digging a 6-7ft deep trench around the whole house and tank it. I don't think he'll be coming back because of the abuse we've hurled at each other and so I'm in a BIG dilemma now.

To make matters worse, I've also just been to my local Machine Mart for a sump pump and explained the situation to the main manager. I know normally these guys will be after a sale, but he was very honest with me and said that since I can't extend the trench more than a foot in width due to gas/lead/sewage pipes being in the way, he can't recommend any pumps at all. The reason being is that once an inspection chamber is built, I'll only be left with a 4-6 inches gap and he said this would be very tight to fit through as it would need a bit of space for float switch and the pipes. He suggested that I find a way to safely close the trench and if water enters the basement, to ONLY then create a sump system inside.

It's a big ask from you guys as you've been extremely helpful, but can anyone please tell me what I can do to simply bring this job to a close and if necessary what stuff I can do to further protect the foundations externally?

 

[Ian H]

Dig on the other side of the gas pipe.

Or backfill it and have the pump on a pit inside.