WC into understairs pantry - nightmare

[advisewelcome]

It's a mess, but if it isn't leaking leave it alone.

Thanks. Will reply to the rest of the posts as well and appreciate the input.

Not sure how a 90degree WC plan connector is going to create less pinch points then a WC bent flexi connector (if anything you can pinch and bend the flexi is there is blockage). Issues on the pantry side of the WC are easily fixable as easy access - its issues on the garage side which will be concealed under a raised floor and with a shower on top that we need to prevent.

... is there any kind of plumbers WC Waste Stress TEST that can be done? - i.e. shove a load of bog roll in one lump (or something) in the WC and see if it flushes it all away? - then you know its passes a stress test at this time (given that with the passage of time and debris built up / degradation of seals - that might change.).

 

[denso13]

shove a load of bog roll in one lump (or something) in the WC and see if it flushes it all away?

Doesn't prove anything. Just accept it for what it is and move on.

 

[thomp1983]

The flexi is a problem as the ridges in it catch the more solid stuff that goes down the toilet and slowly builds up till it causes a blockage.

The 90 degree is completely smooth internally so the weight of water forces everything along it.

And that's without the rat consideration.

Im only a diyer but Hugh jalek has done this for years professionally on way more complicated stuff than your doing now so if he says do it another way then that's the way to do it.

 

[denso13]

Im only a diyer but Hugh jalek has done this for years professionally on way more complicated stuff than your doing now

So have I, and as the OP is ignoring all sorts of building regs then there is no point trying to get the pipework 100%. Flexi's are fine if required.

BTW, I respect Hugh's opinion, I just think it's a bit of a lost cause on this one.

 

[advisewelcome]

You need to get rid of that pan connector joint, its wrong, unnecessary, and risks causing a pinch point where it'll block. The only place the Pan connector is needed is on the outlet from the Pan, hence the name.

Get the soil pipe set to the right fall, (the Bends are actually 92.5º to give you 2.5º to provide a suitable fall.) Pipe from WC straight into Bend, section of pipe out of the bend into the Drain Connector.

The pictures look like you can remove more of the wall to remove the need for the offset connector.

Get yourself a 90 degree pan connector, fit it to the toilet with the outlet horizontal. That will then attach to the white 110mm pipe you've already got, remove whatever wall is stopping it going through the hole.

Once that's through the wall you'll need a double socket connector like the white one mentioned earlier in the thread that will allow you to raise the black bend to meet the white 110mm pipe.

If the angle between the white 110mm and black bend is out take a picture and we'll advise on how to make it up with the right fittings.

Ok, just checking I understand the consensus here...

The suggested stack are:
-A 90° WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into a raised double socket elbow
-The double socket elbow is raised by 110mm small pipe section into it
-The 110mm small pipe section going into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole

The info is:
-A 90° WC pan connector is better than a flexi due to smoother flow
-A double socket elbow connector has a falls 2.5° which is enough for a WC waste

I can try and knock some of the wall out to get a straight line from the WC to the Drain connector (I think the WC might need to go back for this and not sure how much room there is left for that). Will estimate the effort in doing this - but If its not leaking currently and the suggested stack has the same amount of connections as current - just need to know the benefits of doing the suggested stack (e.g. less likely to leak?) - so can work out if worth the effort.

Are there any other fittings that should be considered which would offer anything better - i.e. adjustable bends?

 

[denso13]

just need to know the benefits of doing the suggested stack

No benefit, if it isn't leaking.

 

[advisewelcome]

No benefit, if it isn't leaking.

Ta. I guess this is what I needed to know... the 2 worries are leaks and blockages...

Leak likeliness
With my current stack, if it does not leak when fitted, is that good enough to ensure no leaks over the next 5-10 years? The offsets have a rubbery seal which is a good fit, but is this more likely to degrade then the hard pipe-to-pipe socket joints in the forum suggested stack?

Blockages
Was the forum suggested 110mm pipe-to-pipe stack more robust and less likely to block?
If I test my current stack with a big lump of bog roll and it works - there is unlikely to be significant performance degradation?



Forum suggested stack:
-A 90° WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into a raised double socket elbow
-The double socket elbow is raised by 110mm small pipe section into it
-The 110mm small pipe section going into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole

Current stack:
-A flexi WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into 20mm offset
- The offset going into a single spigot elbow
-The single spigot elbow into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole