WC into understairs pantry - nightmare

[advisewelcome]

It's a mess, but if it isn't leaking leave it alone.

Thanks. Will reply to the rest of the posts as well and appreciate the input.

Not sure how a 90degree WC plan connector is going to create less pinch points then a WC bent flexi connector (if anything you can pinch and bend the flexi is there is blockage). Issues on the pantry side of the WC are easily fixable as easy access - its issues on the garage side which will be concealed under a raised floor and with a shower on top that we need to prevent.

... is there any kind of plumbers WC Waste Stress TEST that can be done? - i.e. shove a load of bog roll in one lump (or something) in the WC and see if it flushes it all away? - then you know its passes a stress test at this time (given that with the passage of time and debris built up / degradation of seals - that might change.).

 

[denso13]

shove a load of bog roll in one lump (or something) in the WC and see if it flushes it all away?

Doesn't prove anything. Just accept it for what it is and move on.

 

[thomp1983]

The flexi is a problem as the ridges in it catch the more solid stuff that goes down the toilet and slowly builds up till it causes a blockage.

The 90 degree is completely smooth internally so the weight of water forces everything along it.

And that's without the rat consideration.

Im only a diyer but Hugh jalek has done this for years professionally on way more complicated stuff than your doing now so if he says do it another way then that's the way to do it.

 

[denso13]

Im only a diyer but Hugh jalek has done this for years professionally on way more complicated stuff than your doing now

So have I, and as the OP is ignoring all sorts of building regs then there is no point trying to get the pipework 100%. Flexi's are fine if required.

BTW, I respect Hugh's opinion, I just think it's a bit of a lost cause on this one.

 

[advisewelcome]

You need to get rid of that pan connector joint, its wrong, unnecessary, and risks causing a pinch point where it'll block. The only place the Pan connector is needed is on the outlet from the Pan, hence the name.

Get the soil pipe set to the right fall, (the Bends are actually 92.5º to give you 2.5º to provide a suitable fall.) Pipe from WC straight into Bend, section of pipe out of the bend into the Drain Connector.

The pictures look like you can remove more of the wall to remove the need for the offset connector.

Get yourself a 90 degree pan connector, fit it to the toilet with the outlet horizontal. That will then attach to the white 110mm pipe you've already got, remove whatever wall is stopping it going through the hole.

Once that's through the wall you'll need a double socket connector like the white one mentioned earlier in the thread that will allow you to raise the black bend to meet the white 110mm pipe.

If the angle between the white 110mm and black bend is out take a picture and we'll advise on how to make it up with the right fittings.

Ok, just checking I understand the consensus here...

The suggested stack are:
-A 90° WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into a raised double socket elbow
-The double socket elbow is raised by 110mm small pipe section into it
-The 110mm small pipe section going into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole

The info is:
-A 90° WC pan connector is better than a flexi due to smoother flow
-A double socket elbow connector has a falls 2.5° which is enough for a WC waste

I can try and knock some of the wall out to get a straight line from the WC to the Drain connector (I think the WC might need to go back for this and not sure how much room there is left for that). Will estimate the effort in doing this - but If its not leaking currently and the suggested stack has the same amount of connections as current - just need to know the benefits of doing the suggested stack (e.g. less likely to leak?) - so can work out if worth the effort.

Are there any other fittings that should be considered which would offer anything better - i.e. adjustable bends?

 

[denso13]

just need to know the benefits of doing the suggested stack

No benefit, if it isn't leaking.

 

[advisewelcome]

No benefit, if it isn't leaking.

Ta. I guess this is what I wanted to be sure about for the future. I could try and build an access trap door in the garage raised floor in case needed, but this isn't going to be easy. The 2 future worries are leaks and blockages - comparing the below...

Current stack (7 Connections?):
-A flexi WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into 20mm offset
- The offset going into a single spigot elbow
-The single spigot elbow into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole

Forum suggested stack (7 connections?):
-A 90° WC pan connector going into a 110mm pipe
-The 110mm pipe going into a raised double socket elbow
-The double socket elbow is raised by 110mm small pipe section into it
-The 110mm small pipe section going into a drain connector with boss
-The drain connector with boss going into the current floor drain hole

Future Leak likeliness
Although the WC Current stack does not leak - is it more like to leak over next 5-10 years compared to the Forum suggested stack with its pipe-to-pipe socket joints? The offset connection has a thick rubbery seal and I am unsure if these are potential weak points in the future?

Future Blockages
Also could this offset also be a point of blockage as well? If I test my current stack with a big lump of bog roll and it works - is there unlikely to be significant performance degradation over the years - and I can be reassured?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The pan connector taking the 110mm pipe from the Pan into the bend is wrong. It may not be leaking, but its poor practice, may be prone to blocking, (I wouldn't want to rate its chances should you start trying to plunge the pan to get things moving, and properly made joints should not leak.

Its entirely up to you, but you've sought advice on how to do the work, and that's been given, on how to do it properly.

 

[advisewelcome]

The pan connector taking the 110mm pipe from the Pan into the bend is wrong. It may not be leaking, but its poor practice, may be prone to blocking, (I wouldn't want to rate its chances should you start trying to plunge the pan to get things moving, and properly made joints should not leak.

Its entirely up to you, but you've sought advice on how to do the work, and that's been given, on how to do it properly.

Thanks.

But just to be clear you are saying this flexi...

Should be replaced with this...

And the rest is unlikely to leak if its not leaking now?

Those Offset joint connections are not a known hazard for future blocks and leaks?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Replace Flexi with rigid pan connector, as per middle photo.

Get rid of the offset pan connector joining the soil pipe to the bend. Use a double socket bend and sections of 110mm pipe as required.

 

[advisewelcome]

Replace Flexi with rigid pan connector, as per middle photo.

Get rid of the offset pan connector joining the soil pipe to the bend. Use a double socket bend and sections of 110mm pipe as required.

Ok, can give it a try - but in plumbing I am finding once you undo things, they don't go back together again and projects spiral.

If the WC in the wrong position will have to stick to flexi WC connector as moving the WC back is limited. But at least the garage plumbing will not have an offset. Not sure how I ensure the double socket elbow is at the right height - I assume the natural shape of the elbow will mean that a small fall will occur as long as things plug together - and small fall is only needed. Guess I could use the newspaper trick to get a small 110mm pipe section cut straight, unless anyone has a better method.

People are the experts around here, so just wanna' know that if it becomes mission impossible - is the current setup a disaster or is it an okay compromise if it does not currently leak or block?

Multiple choice replies...

(a) No its a disaster change at all costs!
(b) Invest a day in sorting it and if not, can leave it
(c) If its not leaking/blocking now, its unlikely to in the future

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Hugh's opinion, I just think it's a bit of a lost cause on this one.

Afraid I have to agree.

 

[advisewelcome]

Doesn't take a genius to say its crap and should be better.

Understanding where not to compromise and the risk/rewards of potential work is what we need from the experts.

 

[thomp1983]

We've told you what needs to be done and you just keep coming back trying to get a pro to say that while it's a lash up it'll be ok aslong as it's not leaking so you can justify leaving it as is.

All the advice you need is in this thread.

 

[advisewelcome]

We've told you what needs to be done and you just keep coming back trying to get a pro to say that while it's a lash up it'll be ok aslong as it's not leaking so you can justify leaving it as is.

All the advice you need is in this thread.

Was asking if the goal can't be achieved what is the minimum acceptable. Pre-planning prior to bringing in resources - if the plan cannot be executed, needed a contingency and fall back position. Capiche?

Am trying to execute on the good advise...