I have a multi fuel stove, problem is every time the door glass needs changing the nuts have to screw off the studs, and so far I have had to have 4 studs welded or brazed not sure which, the doors are cast I believe. I am thinking about drilling through where the studs are and fitting bolts & nuts. Any thought's please.
welding or brazing
- Thread starter reg7
- Start date
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Not too sure what you mean here I'm afraid, but it's brazing that is successful with cast iron. Were the studs brazed in?
You can drill cast iron readily enough, of course.
John
You can drill cast iron readily enough, of course.
John
D
Doggit
How often are you having to change the glass, sound too often so there may be another issue going on.
Does the door have enough metal around the potential hole to remain secure, and would the holes still be airtight, and not let out any smoke or CO.
Can you get a better quality stud and nut brazed on next time, but I'm still inclined to query why the glass has been changed so much.
Does the door have enough metal around the potential hole to remain secure, and would the holes still be airtight, and not let out any smoke or CO.
Can you get a better quality stud and nut brazed on next time, but I'm still inclined to query why the glass has been changed so much.
Hi,Burnerman, thanks for that wasn't sure weld or brazed. The studs are brazed onto the flat of door inside which I don't think is very strong.
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Ah, I see......studs brazed to the surface of the cast door - not the best idea!
I'd be inclined to drill and tap holes for the studs rather than drill right through - just for aesthetics rather than anything else.
In the meantime, just tighten those nuts just over finger tight and that may save the glass.....gives it a chance to expand.
John
I'd be inclined to drill and tap holes for the studs rather than drill right through - just for aesthetics rather than anything else.
In the meantime, just tighten those nuts just over finger tight and that may save the glass.....gives it a chance to expand.
John
Is the glass cracking or just discolouring?
John
John
D
Doggit
You may be buying cheap glass, or more likely, you're overtightening the nuts when you replace the glass, and stressing it.
Very tricky the glass wash thing. You need to stove to run hot enough to burn the soot of the glass, that got there from not burning the stove hot enough in the first place. The hot air should be going over the glass, and keeping it clean, and you can't let the logs etc get too close to the glass either.
Are you referring to the distance from the outside of the stove to the surrounding brickwork; because this could be causing the stove to overheat, and that'll stress the cast iron frame.
Can you post a picture
Very tricky the glass wash thing. You need to stove to run hot enough to burn the soot of the glass, that got there from not burning the stove hot enough in the first place. The hot air should be going over the glass, and keeping it clean, and you can't let the logs etc get too close to the glass either.
Are you referring to the distance from the outside of the stove to the surrounding brickwork; because this could be causing the stove to overheat, and that'll stress the cast iron frame.
Can you post a picture
Hi John, sorry for the delay in replying laptop went wrong. I have found someone who is drilling part way and tapping for the stud as you said, makes sense. The glass doesn't crack it discolours quite a lot. And I think I have been tightening the nuts to much. REG
Very tricky the glass wash thing. You need to stove to run hot enough to burn the soot of the glass, that got there from not burning the stove hot enough in the first place. The hot air should be going over the glass, and keeping it clean, and you can't let the logs etc get too close to the glass either.
Are you referring to the distance from the outside of the stove to the surrounding brickwork; because this could be causing the stove to overheat, and that'll stress the cast iron frame.
Can you post a picture[/QUOTE]
Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/welding-or-brazing.469429/#ixzz4OHpiWviT
Are you referring to the distance from the outside of the stove to the surrounding brickwork; because this could be causing the stove to overheat, and that'll stress the cast iron frame.
Can you post a picture[/QUOTE]
Hi Doggit, sorry for the delay in replying laptop went wrong. The room around the outside of the stove is not a lot. I will try to send a photo when the doors are back in place.
Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/welding-or-brazing.469429/#ixzz4OHpiWviT
Drill and tap a larger sized thread with a steel nut, then use some thread lock or peen the steel. Grind back the steel flat flush with the iron, and re-drill and tap a new smaller hole. I've done this to repair an old vice, though clearly threadlock is fine in a vice but perhaps less suitable for a hot stove door.
Nozzle
Nozzle
What is the make and model of the stove? or
picture of the inside of the door if possible?
litl
picture of the inside of the door if possible?
litl
D
Doggit
Okay, so the glass isn't cracking, but it can get discoloured with soot if the airwash isn't working properly, but that doesn't mean it needs changing. There's supposed to be a trick of using wood ashes to clean the glass, but I use a glass scourer, and that brings it up perfectly.
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