Wetroom in Loft

Thanks for the advice Moz.
i'm just in the process of laying all the plumbing down at the moment.
The next job is to put up the hardibacker boards, & prepare the flooring.
Do think that I'd getaway with putting down 12mm marine ply on top of the 22mm chipboard floor,instead of the 18mm u suggested?

btw.
A while ago you you posted a reply re: indepth instructions on how to build a wetroom, can you please send them on to me.
I'd really appreciate it, or just detailed info. re: pre preparing the flooring,drainage,tanking & tiling?
or if anyone else can chip in, any advice on these points would be appreciated.

Cheers


;)
 
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I installed an impey Aquadec / Tilesafe system a couple of months ago.

Its fairly easy if you are a competent diy'er but a couple of points :-

1. Once you take up the floorboards, the joists on which the Aquadec rests must be absolutely secure - best to insert lots of noggins to ensure there is no movement. Also the joists must be perfectly level as the slope on the dec is very shallow and water will not run out if your levels are not spot on. Its worth taking time to get your floor ready.

2. The Tilesafe membrane is very very sticky and quite tricky to lay. Take your time with this. Problem is that once it grabs a hold its extremely difficult to pull it off again, so its got to be in the correct position first time! Otherwise you end up throwing it away and starting with a new piece.

Get these two things right and the rest is a doddle.
 
Hi all I have been away ,
I will write a full step by step guide soon .. ;)
 
Thanks for the replies.

I was going to go for the tilesafe option but had already opted for the schluter ditra as the waterproofing membrane.

Though if anyone has had any issues with the ditra it would be good to know before I actually lay it.
From the postings I understand that the tilesafe sounds like a safe bet.
So I might consider ditching the ditra for it.

One other issue I have is that the timber flooring is not level its sloping away from the drain.

I've removed the 22mm chipboard T&G flooring & will be using 18mm wbp plywood instead. I've strengthened the flooring by adding noggins at 50cm. I now need to level out the floor.

Is it possible to build in slopes by adding wedges of timber on top of the joists & then put down the plywood?

Or is there a better way of doing this.
 
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Is it possible to build in slopes by adding wedges of timber on top of the joists & then put down the plywood?
yes .. ;)
 
Thanks for that Moz.
I got some furrings made from the timber merchant & put those down on top of the joists & then the ply on top,.

The floor does slope in the right direction but its still not right. its not as straight forward as I thought.

:rolleyes:
 
pcshack
dont get too hung up on it , as once your seal the floor an tile you can build a better fall towards the trap , ;)
 
Thanks for that Moz,

I was really worried about missing something & once the floor is down I need to know in my mind its done right coz pulling it back up is not an option that the other half would tolerate :(.

I've added more noggins to ensure the floor will be nice & stable,I've levelled the floor up with little wedges & was attempting to build slopes in(painstaking work) but if the tiling can do it better then I'll just go ahead & screw down the plywood & the thermal boards & seal everything & get on with the tiling.

I've been trying to sort out the flooring on off for the last 2 months, & maybe you are right I'm worrying too much, the tiles should be able to build the slope into the floor so that the water will run towards the drain from anywhere in the room.

Cheers

btw Moz how you getting on with the 'Building a Wetroom Instructions'?
Would be nice to have something to follow or just as reference.
Thanks once again for your vaulable advice
 
pcshack

the major issue is the tanking really what ever make you use I always used Bal, make sure you get the floor an up the walls sealed its not hard after reading the instructions just very messy /sticky
Im off on another holiday this sat , so I cannnot maybe when I get back :)
 
Moz

Another Holiday!!!

Anyway have a good time & thanks once again for your feedback/suggestion/advice.

Hopefully I'll have completed it by then, 've got a deadline of December now so that should be long enough - fingers n all crossed.

Thanks
 
Moz said:
Hi pcshack


with all respect to crafty1289, ignore him....lol.. :)

Yes you can fit a wet room in an attic , an wetrooms arent out of the range of a competant DIYer .....

Use 18mm Marine ply on joists that have been strengthened with noggins ,then timber Preserve the lot ,
put down marine ply with screws every 200mm.....
where shower trap is to be postioned lay 40mm solvent waste pipes with fall at 1/4....then tank floor
an walls up too a metre, an full where shower head will be positioned ,
tanking isnt that hard it is very messy an time consuming job though ...then tile on top .....
hope this gives you an idea of whats involved ?

^ this above is not a full detailed explanation but a taster ... I will write a
full long indepth one if anyone wants it ?


Hi Moz,

I'm at the point where I'm about to start the flooring on my wetroom project. Any chance you could e/mail me the in-depth explanation? Many thanks in advance. I'm planning to remove the floorboard and strengthen the joists use noggins, then marine ply, followed by a tanking/membrane kit of sorts and then tiles. From previous advice you gave that its possible to put in wedge shaped timber on top of the joists to create the fall to the drain before putting down the marine ply. What roughly would the dimensions be on these. The room I'm doing is tiny only around 76' x 32. would I be better doing a central drain (doing this I figure if I used thin timber strips on top of the joist at both sides of the room and none in the centre, then this would get my fall from each side once the ply was fixed down, am I correct in my thinking here?) which would end up being next to the small basin I'm installing or would you advise the drain to be positioned more in the shower area. Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

DV.
 
DARTHVADER said:
Any chance you could e/mail me the in-depth explanation? Many thanks in advance.

Moz....When it's available in all good book shops put me down for a copy....I should be starting mine in the spring ;)
 

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