What do wall ties really do?

[Shytalkz]

In terms of size/thickness, I wasn't being specific...

Oops thought you were quoting me there Woody! Hope FNT doesn't read this one, otherwise he'll be off on his "you're all the same person" diatribe again...

 

[emphasis303]

So would it be ok to build a 2.35 metre high by 3 metre wide by 2 metre long garage with two skins, the external skin being 7n block and internal being thermalite with a 100mm cavity with wall ties every 300mm?

With 4 courses of solid class b engineering brick below the ground and a 400mm deep 500mm wide strip foundation?

Also does any one have links to the wall plates as I'm not sure what type u mean

Thank very much for all the replies guys

 

[Shytalkz]

2m long garage? Smart car?

 

[Shytalkz]

3.5MN block both leaves is fine; ties 450v 600h centres 225 v/h around openings. Why eng bricks, why not just use blocks (suitable for use below dpc) and normal dpc? Foundation size/type depends on the ground you're on, but 450 wide trenchfill or strip is adequate if you're on reasonable stuff.

Block strength relates to vertical loads btw; an increase in strength has no significant influence on lateral strength. Although I know a builder who only uses 7MN blocks these days, reckons there's less shrinkage cracking.

What are you going to finish the outside with?

 

[emphasis303]

Thanks alot so 3.5n blocks and what type of wall plates do I use? Do u have any links as I'm not sure what type ur referring to.
Walls gna be rendered with sand and cement
Thank u very much for the help

 

[Shytalkz]

I presume the links you want are for blocks? In which case http://www.hanson.co.uk/142/blocks/thermalite/performance/frostresistance.html. These can be used below dpc.

Wall plate 100x50.

Are you putting a pitched or flat roof on this?

 

[emphasis303]

The roof will be a flat roof still deciding on the size of the timber and what the best materials for price wud be.any ideas? Was thinking mdf with felt

 

[Softus]

MDF?! Why not use balsa wood?

 

[emphasis303]

sorry i meant to ask what sorrt of expanded metal shud i use. something lik this?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/69577/Building/Builders-Metalwork/Brick-Reinforcing-Coil-112mm-x-20m

or a piece of metal strip tying in the two skin in between the wallties?

 

[Shytalkz]

Use this two in one product which strengthens the wall laterally and ties the two leaves: http://www.brc-special-products.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.getpage&paget=864&pagever=197

 

[AtoZ]

cant you just build a wider block wall?
getting a bit complicated for a garage.

shy
good post about cavity gaps.
better to have a smaller gap and a thicker inner skin.

 

[emphasis303]

I gues I cud jst double skin it with no cavity but I want it to be warm and built properly upto regulations. Its going to be like a practice run for the extension I want to build but I also need space for storage aswell as somewhere for the odd guest to stay over for a few days.

Thank u very much shy for all ur posts uve really been a great help. I have been asking how to make the building stronger against wind but what I want to know is, if I build something to my dimensions with two courses below the ground with suitable foundations. Do u think I will need anything to reinforce the walls? Or is it unnecessary and not needed to withstand the say the 70mph winds we get in iner city England?

I would be interested in and also want to know how u wud build what I want to do.


In hoping this will be my last post about this unless I get stuck on something and promise to get plenty of pics for u

 

[roberta1000]

"what do wall ties do?"

they are there to keep the walls apart.

Oh - I thought they were to catch the mortar and prevent it heaping up in the bottom of the cavity.

 

[Shytalkz]

I gues I cud jst double skin it with no cavity but I want it to be warm and built properly upto regulations.

Solid walls using thermalite blocks can be made to achieve the required U-value of 0.35 qv Hansons website (got to the earlier link and work from there), if you're concerned about it. If you don't want any piers, use Brickforce in the joints (again, go to the other earlier link and work from there), ply-clad the flat roof, strap the joists down to the wall and everything should be h-d

 

[AtoZ]

solid walls would be better. with modern materials it is always better.
the only real need for cavity work is to have a brick veneer (or something else)
if you are going to render anyway; then you are creating work for yourself.
stability when laying is also much better for a newboy' when the wall is thicker.

i never meant to suggest having no cavity cavity does not allow for solar/thermal gain as it insulates the structure from the sun
the cavity concept is out of date unless its for the 'look' of brick.