What qualifications are required for changing consumer unit and wiring?

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I am about to have my bathroom done ... hopefully most items by myself.

I am thinking of having an electric shower done as well so need to get an electrician in to :
1) upgrade my consumer unit and run cable of the electric shower, isolator switch ...
2) run extra cables into the loft for wall socket and ventilation fan

I am clueless about what electrical certificates the electrician is required to have to do this work.


Thanks
 
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I am thinking of having an electric shower done as well so need to get an electrician in to :
1) upgrade my consumer unit and run cable of the electric shower, isolator switch ...
2) run extra cables into the loft for wall socket and ventilation fan
I am clueless about what electrical certificates the electrician is required to have to do this work.
Anyone competent to do the work can 'do' it, even if they have no formal qualifications at all.

However, the upgrading of your CU and installation of a 'new circuit' (for your shower) are both 'notifiable works'. If you employ a 'self-certifying' (really 'self-notifying') electrician who is a member of a Competent Persons Scheme (e.g. NICEIC) then he/she can 'self-notify' at minimal cost. Otherwise one has to formally 'notify' the Building Control dept. of your Local Authority, the fee for which can be 'hundreds of pounds' (it varies a lot between LAs).

Kind Regards, John
 
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Unless that's the only option (as in you have no hot water available from any other source), don't bother.
I would like to hear your thoughts on this. We have a non Combi boiler, hot water cylinder in airing cupboard and cold water tank in loft. I was hoping that the electric shower will be a good option to stop having to yell at the kids to be quick in the shower so the last person still gets some hot water left without having to turn on the immersion heater.
 
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Anyone competent to do the work can 'do' it, even if they have no formal qualifications at all.

However, the upgrading of your CU and installation of a 'new circuit' (for your shower) are both 'notifiable works'. If you employ a 'self-certifying' (really 'self-notifying') electrician who is a member of a Competent Persons Scheme (e.g. NICEIC) then he/she can 'self-notify' at minimal cost. Otherwise one has to formally 'notify' the Building Control dept. of your Local Authority, the fee for which can be 'hundreds of pounds' (it varies a lot between LAs).

Kind Regards, John
Thanks very much, I'll look out for NICEIC
 
I would like to hear your thoughts on this. We have a non Combi boiler, hot water cylinder in airing cupboard and cold water tank in loft.
That's a fairly ideal situation in which to have a non-electric shower. Quite apart from (a good few) other considerations, heating water with electricity currently costs around three times the cost of heating it with gas.
I was hoping that the electric shower will be a good option to stop having to yell at the kids to be quick in the shower so the last person still gets some hot water left without having to turn on the immersion heater.
Assuming that it's a sensible sized hot water cylinder then it should be able to provide at least two or three showers of sensible duration. Teenagers are infamous for having ridiculously lengthy (hence costly and antisocial!) showers so need to be yelled at, even though that often doesn't achieve much. If all else fails, make sure that the adults get their showers first, leaving the kids to perhaps as cold ones, to remind them that their showers are too length :)

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks very much, I'll look out for NICEIC
That's just one (probably the biggest one) of the 'competent Persons Schemes'. There are others (such as NAPIT and Stroma), which equally serve the purpose.

Kind Regards, John
 
In my last two homes the shower water was heated by gas, one used a pump at the shower point as with an open vented system the pressure was not good enough without the pump, when the boiler was changed to a combi boiler the pump had to be removed, regulations don't permit pumping from the mains supply in case it sucks in water under fault conditions, the other house always had mains pressure hot water since around about 1981 and worked well, with a few small problems.

The house using the Main 7 gas water heater for DHW (different boiler for central heating) had a minimum output, so needed a large rose as if not using enough hot water it would go cold, the combi boiler far more modern, but it had a reservoir of hot water, so when using shower it started cold, went hot, then cold again and then hot and stayed hot.

All used loads of water and with some force, and were good showers, and likely cheaper to run than electric, but expensive to install, and the one with the pump had to have a cold water supply from the header tank so both hot and cold at the same pressure.

I had used an electric dribble unit in the past, and they were rather pathetic, but cheap to install and only required a cold water feed, however when I moved into this house, two already installed, and they seem to work a lot better than I remember, and I see no reason to change to gas heated, well in this house oil heated.

I will guess it needs the rose carefully matching to the shower unit, and in the past likely not matched.

However 40 amp is a lot, when the whole supply to house is 60 amp, clearly if both showers used together there would be an overload. Also when I moved in the shower was not RCD protected, and really with electric in the cubical like that it needs RCD protection.

The other is both the showers are in a shower cubical, so the doors seal at bottom, so moisture is retained in the cubical, but in last house it was over the bath, so the chimney effect resulted in the moisture being distributed around the room, and so we had a mould problem as bathroom always damp. Maybe down to only being a mile from Mold but think more due to air circulation.

But using the shower a few times a week is not going to cost that much, and not worth worrying about amount of electric used, but when I was working I had daily showers, and the cost does mount up, so gas or oil is far better.

As to Part P, here in Wales it is £100 plus vat for first £2000 worth of work, plus any third party inspections, the LABC inspector did in the end accept my qualifications, C&G 2391 and a level 5 degree, but he was not happy letting us DIY without having an inspector selected by the LABC to check I have done it right, so in real terms no option but use a scheme member, or of course break the law.

When the power shower was fitted we selected a plumber who assured us he would do all required, we could just leave him to it, however it seems he had some out of date tile cement which was not setting, and he ended up running off, thinking all being done above board I informed the LABC I was taking over, only to find he had not submitted the planning application, I did not even know it was required, but the room was not originally a shower room, only a toilet, so it seems we should have submitted an application.

Lucky being fitted for mother after she lost he leg, so no charges, but had that not been the case likely would have needed to pay LABC £200.

Yes the tank fed and instant gas showers used more water, but we never ran out, and the showers were better, however as to if enough better to bother running new pipe work, likely involving ceiling removal to route pipes, so I would guess at least a £1000 if not more to use the DHW, I don't think for us worth it. At least not at my age.
 
the last person still gets some hot water left without having to turn on the immersion heater.
You should be using the gas boiler to heat the hot water. The electric immersion heater will cost you 3x more and take much longer to heat the cylinder.

If there is insufficient hot water when people are using the shower, turn the gas boiler on while people are using the shower, so it's heating as the hot water is being used.
The idea of 'turn it on until it's hot and then use it' is severely outdated and just leads to periods of not having any hot water available.

Electric showers are generally a total bust as
- they impose a very substantial load onto the electrical supply, in some cases more than it can provide
- their flow rates are dismal compared to every other option
- in hard water areas they will be destroyed by limescale in a couple of years
- for the same amount of water delivered, they are far more expensive than heating with gas
- they are totally incompatible with solar panels, heat pumps and battery storage
 
With all you have said so far, I am abandoning the electric shower idea. Thanks fr the eye opener.

We currently have a bath mixer shower which is fine. We could just keep it like this which will simplify my bathroom install but was thinking it would be nice for the shower to have a bit of a kick to it. I am still trying to understand if I should go a thermostatic mixer shower or Thermostatic power shower.

Will the thermostatic shower result in even less hot water to go around hence not ideal for my installation?
 
I am still trying to understand if I should go a thermostatic mixer shower or Thermostatic power shower. ... Will the thermostatic shower result in even less hot water to go around hence not ideal for my installation?
If by "thermostatic power shower" you mean one which incorporates/utilises a 'shower pump', that will increase the flow rate, hence 'velocity of the water jets'. There won't be any less hot water (what you have is what in your cylinder) but if you have a shower of the same duration, the higher flow rate will mean that you will use more water (both hot and cold) as compared with the situation if you did not have a pump.

Kind Regards, John
 
What colour, and what size, is the cylinder?
 
Reasonably modern, so if you have a fairly modern boiler, it should reheat within half an hour. If the boiler is "on" before you start your shower, then by the time you have towelled off and brushed your teeth, it should be ready for the next shower.
 
Also, the humans in the house could shower at different times of day..?
 

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