If the system has been switched off so the house and HW cylinder have cooled right down, those times might not be too bad, but could be your rads are undersized. The pump stopping and starting seems odd. What controls in the way of thermostats and auto valves do you have? When any stat is calling the pump should run continuously (as Harry said), though the boiler might stop/start firing on its control-stat.
what should i pay
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system has 1 double rad , a small rad, towel rail and 2 medium rads , . the thermostat is a hive ,
it has a wilco pump and it's a y plan .
whe. in sitting room. you hear system start up burner , then after a min it cuts off , then repeats cycle.
bg had a look at it on last service and says it's OK,
spec is Output (KW) 10.26 - 10.26
it has a wilco pump and it's a y plan .
whe. in sitting room. you hear system start up burner , then after a min it cuts off , then repeats cycle.
bg had a look at it on last service and says it's OK,
spec is Output (KW) 10.26 - 10.26
Is it the pump stop/starting, or just the burner?
its the burner that goes off , then reignites
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OK, that's what we'd expect.
Do the rads get hot? If they do, maybe poor heating is because they're undersized. If they don't, could be poor circulation due to pump on the way out, or partial blockage.
Burner/boiler cutting on and off, rather than the pump, makes much more sense.
The boiler runs, cannot get rid of the heat it generates - so it shuts down, then restarts when the heat has been dissipated.
Which all means that either the pipe-work is choked up, or the pump isn't running/not pumping the water around as it should.
They maybe meant the boiler was OK, doesn't mean the rest of your heating system was working as it should.
pump does run , it can be heard from utility room , bg engineer says it was ok and never goes , I have a new one that I got from b&q few years ago .
might swap it out and take a radiator of the wall and insert clear tube .
try and eliminate each radiator .
might swap it out and take a radiator of the wall and insert clear tube .
try and eliminate each radiator .
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You sure that's not 10-16, like a Netaheat? They make all sorts of clicking noises, but 1 min is way too short. Either your pump's stuffed, your pipes are blocked or your boiler stat's dud.
Does the flow pipe get properly hot? Does the boiler make kettle-type hisses and bloblublob noises?
Is the pump on full speed?
Does the pump stay on when the boiler turns off after 1 min - it should stay on.
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boiler doesn't make noises , it will stay on for 10 mins when first put on then reduce .
its a fuelsaver f35 , ,discontinued in 1991,
pump runs , and diverted is diverting , I don't know if its anything to do with the hw and ch being on at same time
its a fuelsaver f35 , ,discontinued in 1991,
pump runs , and diverted is diverting , I don't know if its anything to do with the hw and ch being on at same time
As has been pointed out, your boiler is short cycling and taking such a long time to warm things up, because your boiler is working, but simply unable to get the heat out and into the rest of your heating system. As Ian suggested earlier, you may well find that you pay to have a new boiler installed, but with no improvement. The cause needs to be found as a first step...
The pipes where they come out of the floor, and up to the radiators - what size are they 8mm or 15mm?
15mm is probably the same size as you will find feeding water up to your kitchen sink or the wash basin in your bathroom, plus the pipe feeding the toilet system. 8mm pipes tend to choke up with debris.
Are you sure its is a fuel saver 3 ?
its 8mm , I think i woukd need to get a full install , new pipes and rads , I've not long had new flooring put down , tile laminate and carpets
fuelsaver f35, for Some reason it autocorrected to 3 lol
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