What to do with the shower feed to this thermostatic shower and overheard shower column?

[Joe Fixit]

Hi all, just dry fitting my bath tubs and shower.

Just wondering how to position the water feed to the shower thermo bar? The stud is near middle of the bath so works well with the overhead shower column - assuming this needs to be screwed into the stud.

But then I have a problem in where and how to position the water pipes.

Any ideas please?

Shower I have is:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-standard-alu-hp-combi-flexible-exposed-rose-thermostatic-mixer-shower/997KU?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZm_BhDrARIsAAEbX1HDPe36uRWfE85TImghrxxL7pRC1s5ymLXJf_s0JySroNrwoZMu6YMaAq7lEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[foxhole]

Are you using something like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/highlife-bathrooms-round-shower-brackets-chrome/571hl

 

[Joe Fixit]

Are you using something like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/highlife-bathrooms-round-shower-brackets-chrome/571hl

It comes with wall brackets but yes similar (see attachment). Was just gonna get the pipes clipped in the stud wall and mount these brackets. But wasn't sure where to put the actual pipes

 

[Joe Fixit]

Anybody able to help? My main question is that if the shower riser rail needs to be screwed to that vertical stud. The bottom of the rail would be the thermostatic shower bar where the water pipes needs to be. Does that mean I need to cut out a section of that stud?

 

[trojanhawrs]

The pipe centres are 6" apart, you don't need to chop any out. You need to get your cold feed on the right hand side of the central stud though. I'd also add noggins (the crossmembers in your picture) on either side of the stud where you want the mixer valve and use your template to mark pipe holes. You will struggle to get the pipe behind a noggin on the right though as it looks like you don't have much more than a 2" cavity, is the left hand cavity 4"?

 

[Joe Fixit]

The pipe centres are 6" apart, you don't need to chop any out. You need to get your cold feed on the right hand side of the central stud though. I'd also add noggins (the crossmembers in your picture) on either side of the stud where you want the mixer valve and use your template to mark pipe holes. You will struggle to get the pipe behind a noggin on the right though as it looks like you don't have much more than a 2" cavity, is the left hand cavity 4"?

Thanks. Yes it's a weird house. The left hand cavity is 3" and the right is only 1.5" as it was a paramount wall (horrible stuff to take down).

And yes, would like struggle to have the cold feed on that right hand cavity.

Could the whole shower set potentially be mounted in the left hand cavity? The riser rail and shower bar won't be screwed onto any solid studs but could use Rawl plugs/anchor plugs. The wall will be porcelain tiled onto 12mm Hardiebacker. Would sacrifice the riser being central to the bath tho...

 

[trojanhawrs]

If you're not worried about supporting the mixer bar then definitely taking the cold onto the right hand cavity is the way to go, then at least you're central to the bath taps and the riser is supported. It doesn't need to be difficult, just make a hole through the vertical stud near the ceiling and the top noggin, disconnect the pipe from the elbow and pull through. You'd be better using soldered copper elbows to give yourself more clearance then returning the pushfit further up.

 

[Joe Fixit]

If you're not worried about supporting the mixer bar then definitely taking the cold onto the right hand cavity is the way to go, then at least you're central to the bath taps and the riser is supported. It doesn't need to be difficult, just make a hole through the vertical stud near the ceiling and the top noggin, disconnect the pipe from the elbow and pull through. You'd be better using soldered copper elbows to give yourself more clearance then returning the pushfit further up.

The water pipes in the photos actually needs to go under the bath (only there so I can dry fit the bath) as it connects to the shower pump and then the shower. So I will have pipes going from below to feed shower.

I was thinking about cutting a notch off the noggin to the right but it's only 1.5inch thick. So worried itll crack/break.

 

[trojanhawrs]

If you're coming from below come back up the left and just drill through the stud above the lower noggin. Just make sure not to hit it with your hardie screws later.

 

[Joe Fixit]

If you're coming from below come back up the left and just drill through the stud above the lower noggin. Just make sure not to hit it with your hardie screws later.

Ahhh thats a great idea. Something like the sketch?

Although the vertical stud is still only 1.5". If I cut through that, would the frame not weaken quite a lot? It's screwed into the left frame but still...

Maybe add another noggin above?

 

[trojanhawrs]

Wouldn't worry about it, it has a noggin below and is screwed into the 3" stud. Drill from the 1.5 side though so you're bang in the centre of that. Drill down on the angle so you can bend to your mixer pipework easier. As I said, I'd make up copper L pieces with solder elbows and clip them to your studwork as below.

 

[Joe Fixit]

Wouldn't worry about it, it has a noggin below and is screwed into the 3" stud. Drill from the 1.5 side though so you're bang in the centre of that. Drill down on the angle so you can bend to your mixer pipework easier. As I said, I'd make up copper L pieces with solder elbows and clip them to your studwork as below.View attachment 377703

Thanks. Sounds like a plan. I'll be adding thicker noggins on the left cavity wall anyway for the Hardie backer edges so hopefully can help with the strength of both studs.

At the moment, the shower feed ends are same as the ones on the photo - plastic pushfit elbows. I know coppers always the preferred but is it ok to use these?

 

[trojanhawrs]

Your problem is the depth of the fittings, those elbows are probably about 2 inch deep. You'll be lucky to get that into the cavity never mind clipping it. Solder ring fittings, pipe clips, length of copper pipe and a couple of couplers, will cost about £20 and it'll be rock solid when you come to fit the mixer. You will need a blowtorch if you don't have one already, or just hold it over a gas hob with your oven mitts!

 

[Joe Fixit]

Your problem is the depth of the fittings, those elbows are probably about 2 inch deep. You'll be lucky to get that into the cavity never mind clipping it. Solder ring fittings, pipe clips, length of copper pipe and a couple of couplers, will cost about £20 and it'll be rock solid when you come to fit the mixer. You will need a blowtorch if you don't have one already, or just hold it over a gas hob with your oven mitts!

Thanks. You may be right about the depth. Will have a test