What's a better way to wire this induction hob?

[di9]

About to replace an induction hob in Spain, and this is how I found the existing induction hob wired:

While the old one works, I suspect there's a better way this connection should be made.

I've done some electrics in the past, but I'm not familiar with the range of parts available. So I don't know what that connection should look like if it were done properly.

If it can be avoided, I'd much prefer not to remove kitchen units, even though that hole clearly goes behind the next unit (which has a back to it, so it would be a real pain to remove.)

I found a link in another post to this, but not sure if this is the sort of thing it should have here in Spain.


So... should I redo that connection? If so, how and what with? Or maybe I forget about it and wire the new hob the same way? What would you suggest?


Thank you!

(Not really electrics, but I'm not sure if there should be something fitted under the hob to stop dirt falling into the two drawers that sit directly under it. Should there be?)

 

[johnny2007]

Personally I would put that connection in a connection box fixed to the wall.
Careful drilling around those 2 stop valves that look like taps.
Or, make an easily removable box with mdf or plywood to cover cable and connections.
In uk i would use wagos and wago box.

 

[di9]

Connection boxes!

You are a star. I now see there are lots to choose from, so I'll go from there.

I've also been a big fan of Wago connectors for a while, but never knew they made boxes too. So that's two things I've learnt from your reply.

Thank you very very much!


I'm curious, are these things ever fitted with a standard mains socket and plug?

 

[Mottie]

I'm curious, are these things ever fitted with a standard mains socket and plug?

No. They are over 3KW so I wouldn’t think so.

 

[RandomGrinch]

No. They are over 3KW so I wouldn’t think so.

Yes
You can get plug in induction hobs.
They have load limiting circuitry, and/or only have two 'burners'.

Examples here...

Cheap Plug-In Induction Hobs Deals at Appliances Direct

Buying an easy to fit induction hob for your kitchen? You've chosen right to look at a plug-in induction hob. Saves on fitting bills, plug it into a socket and start cooking.

www.appliancesdirect.co.uk

But as the OP is changing their hob in Spain, they may have a little more leeway with their 16A plugs and sockets?

Connection boxes!

You are a star. I now see there are lots to choose from, so I'll go from there

In the UK, I would fit a cooker connection unit as you linked to in your first post.

 

[Mottie]

You can get plug in induction hobs.
They have load limiting circuitry, and/or only have two 'burners'.

Ah, I was assuming a 4/5 burner hob not a little portable jobbie.

 

[di9]

It's not a "portable jobbie." The new one arrived today. It's one of these with 3 burners:

It doesn't come with a plug, so that answers one question, but I was horrified to see 5 wires instead of 3! To add to my horror, 2 of those wires come pre-joined in one crimp.

I suppose I should read the intructions additional clues, but here are pics of the wires, plus both sides of the label on the cable:

Side 1 of the label:

Side 2 of the label:

Forgive my pedestrian language, but does Side 1 of the label show how to wire it if I have 2x 16A circuits, and Side 2 of the label show how to wire it if I have 1x 32A circuit?

Here's the fuse box with the corresponding fuse arrowed in blue, which at a complete guess is 25A??? I'm saying that only because it has the number C25 printed under it:

If it is 25A at the fuse box, that's below the 32A stated on Side 2 of the label, and therefore I'm not safe to join Wires L1 and L2 together, keep the 2 Neutrals together, and keep using the 3 terminals coming out of the wall?

If none of this has an obvious answer, please let me know and I'll call someone in to do it.


Thanks!

 

[Mottie]

Looks like it’s 7.4Kw. Definitely can’t go on a plug. My one that I fitted only last week had 5 wires too. 2 lives, 2 neutrals and an earth. Connect them up at the hob as per the instructions. The lives and neutrals went together at the cooker switch end which was supplied by a 6mm cable going into a 50A breaker in the consumer unit. I’m no electrician but I don’t think a 25A breaker will be enough. Possibly not the wiring either. Both may need upgrading. I’d seek advice from an electrician if you’re not sure.

Could you not get a 45A cooker switch to connect the wires?

 

[di9]

Looks like it’s 7.4Kw. Definitely can’t go on a plug. My one that I fitted only last week had 5 wires too. 2 lives, 2 neutrals and an earth. Connect them up at the hob as per the instructions. The lives and neutrals went together at the cooker switch end which was supplied through a 6mm cable going into a 50A breaker in the consumer unit. I’m no electrician but I don’t think a 25A breaker will be enough. Possibly not the wiring either. Both may need upgrading.

Very helpful, thanks. So the question becomes whether "C25" does indeed mean it's on a 25A breaker. Can anyone confirm?

If it is 25A then I guess my options are to get that and possibly the wiring upgraded, or try to source a lower rated hob? No idea what's standard these days in terms of current draw for induction hobs.

 

[Mottie]

What is the rating in KW of the hob being removed? If that is also 7+Kw you may get away with it.

 

[di9]

What is the rating in KW of the hob being removed? If that is also 7+Kw you may get away with it.

Great question. Just about managed to get my phone in there for a pic, but it looks touch and go at 7.2kW:

So the new one is 200W more than the old one.

Is it worth trying it? If it goes south, will the breaker trip or am I likely to fry something?

 

[Mottie]

am I likely to fry something?

Egg and bacon if you’re lucky.

Pretty sure that 7400/7200 KW rating is the maximum with all burners up on maximum and I’ve never done that on any hob - gas or electric.

 

[di9]

Egg and bacon if you’re lucky.

Pretty sure that 7400/7200 KW rating is the maximum with all burners up on maximum and I’ve never done that on any hob - gas or electric.

Clearly you don't eat anywhere near enough crispy bacon!

 

[Ragnar_AT]

I believe there are some single-phase 25 A sockets that would work but they‘re made to pre-harmonised standards and I‘m not sure if Spain has any.

The wires seem to come out of a flush back box so a flex outlet with strain relief should be fitted but the wall of the kitchen unit covers half the box as far as I can tell. You need to find a surface-mounted flex outlet (also known as a cooker wedge) or you need to cut a hole into the unit.

 

[di9]

I think the main question I have right now is if it's safe to wire in the new hob to give it a test? (So temporarily wire it just like the old one, in the very fist pic.)

Summary as I've understood things so far:
- The new hob is 7.4kW, the old one 7.2kW.
- The old hob has been used for 12 months without any noticeable problems, certainly nothing ever tripped.
- 7.4kW is only ever likely to be drawn with all burners switched on at max.
- It's on a C25 breaker (pic in earlier post) which I believe means a max of 25A.
- The label on the cable (pic in earlier post) of the new hob suggests the rating should really be 32A.

Is the worst that can happen that the breaker will trip? Or could I cause more damage?

Assuming I can test it and all goes well, I can then turn my attention to doing a better job of the wiring. At least that's my novice thinking.