Which cable to use to supply elecric to Garage

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Hi
I want to supply electric to garage which is about 20meter away from main house.

there is already a meter in garage and nice wiring but the house owner before me cut the supply wire as the cable was kind of rotten because of rain etc.

Now I want to buy a cable which would be suitable for outdoors.

I would like to use my treadmill, lawn mower and tools etc.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
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Firstly read here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:diy-electrical-work-and-the-law as this work is notifiable to your LABC under part p of the building regs.
Do you mean a meter or a consumer unit? Usually meters are property of the distribution network operator and so is the supply to them. Saying that I have come across privately owned meters and distribution systems before.
You need to start by determining the design current - what is the likelyhood of you or someone else wanting to use a heater or a welder in there?
What is your supply type - TT, TN-CS or TN-S? Is there any metallic water mains or other extraneous conductive parts in the garage?

Once you have worked out the design current have a look at: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
I'd suggest SWA if it is to be burried along its length (use 2 core PVC in the calculator even if you are wanting to use 3 core in reality). Multiply your design current by 230v to give it in Watts.
What state is the existing wiring inside the garage in? If it is old then will probably be worth renewing the lot anyway.
 
Firstly, note that this work would be notifiable to your LABC under Part P of the building regulations...

How/where are you planning on running the cable to the garage, and what are you going to feed it from in the house - all of these will make a big difference to what type of cable is recommended.

Also, do you know what type of earthing you have (TN-S/TN-C-S/TT etc?), as this will make a difference to how things need to be done in the garage (just because it looks 'nice' doesn't necessarily mean it was done right in the first place)...
 
here's one for BAS then..

is it notifiable if it's replacing a damaged existing cable?

the OP say's it's already done but the cable has been disconnected due to damage..
 
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hi again
thanks for replies.

OK like I said it is to "replace the existing cable" which used to run from house to garage (like BT cables in the air) :)

Because of the weather etc it was coroded and was exposed in a place or two so the last owner of the house just cut from one wal to another. also there is an ON/OFF button in the house for the cable which is OFF now.

by the meter in the garage i mean there is small box with ON/OFF lever and wiring goes from there to socket and a tube light.

The question I aksed was Which cable I should buy which is "Weather Proof" and good enough for running lawn mower (2000W) and a tubelight.

I am sure it is not against the building regulation as it is only a "REPAIR" of an existing cable.


thanks
 
Can you take some pictures of the wiring in the garage, the on/off button in the house, and your consumer unit - as these will help to determine what the likely maximum capacity of the install will be.

I suspect the answer to your question is going to be SWA (which is a bit fiddly to terminate if you've never done it before), the difficulty is over what size is required (it's not purely based on what you want to run on it, it also depends on what it's fed from, as it has to be big enough to handle the fault current).
 
Sorry but it does come under the control of the building regs as it is an outside application and as others have said it depends on several factors.
Just repairing something to reinstate it back to how it was doesn't make it safe.
When I moved in my shed was wired up from the house's lighting circuit to 2 double outlets and a strip light using 2.5mm twin and earth clipped to the fence. Now would you consider it safe to just replace that cable because it was there before.
Believe it or not sometimes the regs are actually there to protect you.
 
hi again
I am going to take pics but I just thought of another thing.

What if I buy an extension lead about 20 meter (garage is away about 12 Meters) and plug in my kitchen and fix plug in the garage before the BOX.

So every time after use I would just unplug it from the kitchen.. I think this is the safest way...

what you think
 
Sorry but it does come under the control of the building regs as it is an outside application and as others have said it depends on several factors.
Just repairing something to reinstate it back to how it was doesn't make it safe.
When I moved in my shed was wired up from the house's lighting circuit to 2 double outlets and a strip light using 2.5mm twin and earth clipped to the fence. Now would you consider it safe to just replace that cable because it was there before.
Believe it or not sometimes the regs are actually there to protect you.

I know it is small job of replacing the cable but the red tape won't allow it. (i think)

that what I copied from the BAS link above....

DESCRIPTIONS OF WORK WHERE NO BUILDING NOTICE OR DEPOSIT OF FULL PLANS REQUIRED
1. Work consisting of—
(a) replacing any fixed electrical equipment which does not include the provision of—
(i) any new fixed cabling; or
(ii) a consumer unit;
(b) replacing a damaged cable for a single circuit only;
(c) re-fixing or replacing enclosures of existing installation components, where the circuit protective measures are unaffected;
(d) providing mechanical protection to an existing fixed installation, where the circuit protective measures and current carrying capacity of conductors are unaffected by the increased thermal insulation.
(e) installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding;
(f) in heating or cooling systems—
(i) replacing control devices that utilise existing fixed control wiring or pneumatic pipes;
(ii) replacing a distribution system output device;
(iii) providing a valve or a pump;
(iv) providing a damper or a fan;
(g) in hot water service systems, providing a valve or a pump;
(h) replacing an external door (where the door together with its frame has not more than 50% of its internal face area glazed);
(i) in existing buildings other than dwellings, providing fixed internal lighting where no more than 100m2 of the floor area of the building is to be served by the lighting.
2. Work which—
(a) is not in a kitchen, or a special location,
(b) does not involve work on a special installation, and
(c) consists of—
(i) adding light fittings and switches to an existing circuit; or
(ii) adding socket outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit;
3. Work on—
(a) telephone wiring or extra-low voltage wiring for the purposes of communications, information technology, signalling, control and similar purposes, where the wiring is not in a special location;
(b) equipment associated with the wiring referred to in sub-paragraph (a).
(c) pre-fabricated equipment sets and associated flexible leads with integral plug and socket connections.
4. For the purposes of this Schedule—
“kitchen” means a room or part of a room which contains a sink and food preparation facilities;
“special installation” means an electric floor or ceiling heating system, an outdoor lighting or electric power installation, an electricity generator, or an extra-low voltage lighting system which is not a pre-assembled lighting set bearing the CE marking referred to in regulation 9 of the Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994; and
“special location” means a location within the limits of the relevant zones specified for a bath, a shower, a swimming or paddling pool or a hot air sauna in the Wiring Regulations, sixteenth edition, published by the Institution of Electrical Engineers and the British Standards Institution as BS 7671: 2001 and incorporating amendments 1 and 2.
 
what you think
Honestly, absolutely awful.
Do the job right then you only have to do it once and minimises the risk of anyone getting hurt.
:) OK
the pics are here

S1033293.JPG

bbdd655977.jpg

S1033290.JPG

S1033293.JPG

S1033294.JPG


S1033295.JPG

S1033296.JPG
 
As flameport says you need to upload your pics elsewhere, it is possible to view them from the properties menu.
The whole garage wants rewiring! Be careful of that fused isolstor - if it has rewirable fuses it may contain asbestos pads.
 

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