which wooden worktop oil?

[JohnD]

they will need some upkeep. There's nothing worse than unloved timber worktops

wife.

 

[Majjie]

unloved wife can at least retaliate

 

[Lorena]

Just to give a different opinion. I have a gorgeous solid oak worktop which was fitted 2 years ago and coated in Liberon finishing oil. It still looks as good now as it was then, I've never re-coated it since or felt the need to, it's still a glowing colour. Admittedly it's a smallish kitchen but I wouldn't swop it for any laminate.

I've not noticed any discolouring, the tiling goes right down to the wood, no problems at all around the sink area [I'm quick to clean up any water lying around and use worktop protectors when necessary], and really it's just fantastic, I've been delighted with it since it was put in.
Any little scratches can easily be sanded out and a little bit of oil re-applied.

I really can't understand all the adverse comments here.

 

[awbcm]

On forums you can ask the advice on almost any thing. But you are not grantee of being told what you want or would like to hear but what you need to know. Then its up to the OP to come to an informed judgment.

 

[chappers]

I would use Junkers rustic oil, but get plenty of coats on it, particularly any end grain and make sure you get a couple or three coats on the back too.
My personal opinion is properly looked after wooden worktops are no problem if fitted properly.
My own oak tops were fitted 5 years ago and were given 6 coats of junkers, denibbed between coats and last year for the first time I gave them a light sand and recoated with a further 3 coats.
All the scratches were in the Junkers coating and the worktops now look like new again.You just need to take a little care with hot pans and knives etc(no different to laminate).
As for water even the drainer grooves still looked ok if not quite as good as the main top.
IMHO wooden worktops aren't bad per se its how they are fitted and looked after that count.

 

[Majjie]

I'm very glad to see chappers defending wood worktops but the original question was about an oil suitable for nut allergy sufferers.

I'm sure Junckers oil is good for worktops - but I'm not sure whether or not it contains nut oil or Tung oil. The safety sheet just says fatty acid (salt of) but it does also say that it's a drying oil and may produce an allergic reaction. If I had someone with a severe nut allergy in the house, I wouldn't risk it.

Siany has probably done her own research by now ... but I've been writing a series of blogs about timber worktops and did some research myself. I didn't even know the difference between a drying oil and a non-drying oil before I started. I'm not allowed to link to my own stuff here but if you want to look, you can find a link to my web site in my profile (and a link to a list of blog titles on the front page).

If I was to answer Siany's question now, I'd definitely suggest trying one of the hardwax oils like Treatex (which contains linseed oil but not tung) or Osmo Topoil (which doesn't contain either). I know some woodworkers don't like hardwax oils for worktops ... but in Siany's circumstances I'd give one a try.

 

[lilac]

its going to be a pain but i have just bought an oak stave worktop and unlike the cabinet maker i like wood ! I am looking forward to the challenge of which i have no doubt of scratching, burning, sanding and oiling, warping and etc - but worried about moisture though. Am just an old-fashioned girl - has slate floor too. Bring out the scrubbing brush - must be real bristle - you can keep the vileda squeegee.no doubt i'll be back here desperate for help when it arrives.!!! After the week of oiling.