Whirlpool Condenser Dryer not heating up

You really need a multi-meter to do some testing now, as per Prenticeboy's link.
 
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I'll get one tomorrow and get testing. I'll test the new heating unit as well cos I suppose you never know if you've got a faulty one. :confused:

And I've even found the NTC thermal limiter thingy (actually by mistake but I found it)

I've got the flipping screws mixed up though - duuuuhhh. They're all the same size - just different heads on them - I'll work it out I think :confused:
 
I've got a multi meter but been trying to test on the old heating element first so I can work out what I'm doing.

I've tested the NTC thermal limiter and it's fine so I think we can rule that out as a problem.

The element in the video that Prenticeboy posted is slightly different so I'm not entirely sure which bits would correspond with the bits in the video.

There's continuity across the heating element but you can see from the attached photo that one of the thermostats is burned out.

The black thermostats on the far left and far right both have continuity and on the new element, there is continuity on the one that's burned out on the old one - the remaining one doesn't have any continuity (friend says it's closed).

Which one am I meant to test for resistance on?

I don't understand why the new heating element isn't working - it looks identical but is a different part number to my old one

Here's the pic of the innards of the old element

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Sorry, me again - update

I "think" the two black things are thermostats and the beige coloured one is an NTC sensor - on the old one that is doing what it's meant to do (drop in resistance when heat is applied) and the same on the new one

The white bit - I have no idea what that is - that's what's blown on the old one and on the new one, it's not really doing anything - checking continuity and resistance :confused:
 
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Is your element the same as the one in the u- tube vid. i.e.. do the wires all go to a plug? Can you post another pic of your old element assy. & the new one bot zoom out so that the wiring harness & back of the plug where the wires enter it are visible on both pics.
 
In the first photo - there's four screws - that's where the thermostats and sensor that I first showed you are - under that cover. It's a double coil heating element, which I assume is why there's two thermostats - so it is different from the one on the video - that looks like its just got one thermostat and one NTC sensor on the side of it


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Sorry but I meant like the first pic. but zoomed out, showing the stats & the wiring.
 
If your new element is the same as the old one, at the plug you should have continuity between the blue wire & the black & the white wire & the black & the resistance should change across the 2 reds when heat applied. If that is ok & it still does not work then you would need to establish that you have a supply voltage to the element.
 
How do you feel about testing for 240v ac on live equipment with your new meter? Do you feel you are competent enough to do that safely? That is not meant to be offensive.
 
If it's explained how to do it, I've not got a problem :) As long as I don't plug myself into the national grid LOL
 
That's the problem, you could do. Sort of anyway :) Reassemble the machine with the new element fitted & connected.
Set your meter for 240v ac & connect the black lead to the machine frame, plug the red lead into either the white or the blue lead in the element plug. Select either high or low heat setting & switch on. Do you get a reading?
Change heat setting to the alternate & try again. Do you get a reading?
Swop the red meter lead to the alternate wire (white or blue) & repeat the process. Do you get readings.
Finally move the black lead to the black wire at the plug & repeat the whole process making notes of any readings.
 
Hokey cokey - will give it a go - it doesn't have high or low heat settings though - just different sensor settings (cupboard/iron dry) or manual timed
 

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