Why am I so inept with wall plugs?

[Mander]

It's this simple one from IKEA: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/skogsviken-toilet-roll-holder-black-20423824/

Just two holes in a bit of metal. I was able to fill in the holes a bit and wobble it around when I tightened the screws, but I will try a better method when it inevitably gets loose.

 

[Mander]

Also I think I mentioned it but I did do the "cross" method of marking the holes, I'm using long screws in the brick, doubling the plugs up to get them all the way into the hole, using Fischer duopower plugs.

 

[Justin Passing]

Well done for doubling up wall plugs - good to spread the load. The screw-gripping part of a plug is very short.

Enormous holes that loo roll thing has, and exposed screws? Maybe mirror screw caps would be good - the disc or dome things you can get.
Quite a lot of agreement in the thread I see, but there is just SO MUCH to fixing things on the wall with all the variables, I think just I could write several pages.
If the damned hole in the wall isn't where you want it, skinny wedges can save the day. Clothes pegs are a good start. Get one with straight grain and split it lengthwise. (or even a match stick or three)
With the distance you have between the object and the grip which is in the brick, you can afford to do the screws up "quite tight" then force the TR holder straight, then screw them properly tight. It'll be fine until granny uses the thing for a support while she gets up.

I get the argument about good tools but I think the DIY drill product is mature enough that an ordinary thing will be fine as long as you use it gently and with the right bits. If you try to make a 10mm hole it'll just dance about and wreck the PB, but taking it slow in stages you'll be absolutely fine.


One type of drill bit which will make life easier is the "drill anything" type of multi - purpose carbide tipped one. They are SHARP!.
Toolstation have a better range than Screwfix (as is usually the case). They have a Milwaukee set which looks good for the range of sizes and the BOX. The box is enormously important - the Bosch type soons fails. Milwaukee have a strange respect in the UK. In the USA they're nothing special. Nice box, though.

If 30 quid is too much for a set of bits - understandable - then you only neeeeed one - this one:

Bosch Expert CYL-9 Multi Construction TCT Drill Bit

A multipurpose drill bit from the Bosch EXPERT range that excels with almost any material used in interior fitting work. Soft concrete, masonry, brick, cement asbestos, ceramics and tiles, softwood, plastic, sheet metals, aluminium - none of them are a problem for this impressive bit.Designed...

www.toolstation.com

It's 4mm, which will start you precisely, where you want, in anything, with a diy drill and often without a hammer. It'll be a revelation.
Who cares if the job takes you a minute longer?
Cheap masonry bits are a pain.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Also I think I mentioned it but I did do the "cross" method of marking the holes, I'm using long screws in the brick, doubling the plugs up to get them all the way into the hole, using Fischer duopower plugs.

If it runs off the cross a little way, you can 'steer' the bit a little, to correct it initially, back on course - by simply altering the angle of the drill and bit briefly.

 

[aveatry]

I will second or is it 10th the use of a 4mm pilot drill first. I used to use heller from tool station made for cordless drills and they have a double or wide flute for dust removal - or something. They dont do them any more so had to source from ebay but still need a 4mm I will be looking at that bosh one I think.

 

[mrrusty]

It is a fact of life that drilling holes in masonry can be inaccurate. No matter what tool you use, if your hole happens to catch half on the edge of a brick and half on soft mortar it is going to veer off into the mortar. The best way is to plan for this, get at least one hole in accurately first, and then feel the other in, maybe angling up down/left right if it starts veering off - it could even be a hard stone in softer brick. Hidden screws work nearly as well when put in at an angle as they do straight, but look a bit cack if the heads are exposed.

I've never, ever pilot holed a hole for a plug. IMHO, if you hit a hard bit, you're just as likely to snap a small drill and end up with another problem.

I always junk tapered and cheap plugs supplied with stuff, and tend to use Schneider Thorsman TP2's and TP2Bs - getting slightly harder to find, but never found anything better (I've used them for 40 years, and they haven't changed - except branding) - they are parallel sided and get a good grip.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I always junk tapered and cheap plugs supplied with stuff, and tend to use Schneider Thorsman TP2's and TP2Bs

I wasn't sure what plugs I used as my go to, I have thousands in stock, so I've just checked, and it's the Schneider Thorsman TP2. It's not just the shape, but the hardness of the plastic, which makes them work so well.

I also agree there is no need to start with a smaller bit, and work up, for accuracy, though doing that might help where the masonry is more tough than usual, or the hammer action, not so effective - never a problem with SDS.

 

[mrrusty]

though doing that might help

IMHO if you're struggling to get a 5.5mm in straight for a TP2,, what you going to pilot with? 2.5mm? 3mm? if the substrate is difficult that's a recipe for a snapped off drill in my book.....

 

[aveatry]

I actually really like using Plasplugs 7mm x 40mm https://www.screwfix.com/p/plasplugs-solid-wall-fixing-7mm-x-40mm-50-pack/3947k
But just brought a box of Fischer Duopower 8x65 that seem to attract some good reviews.

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[aveatry]

IMHO if you're struggling to get a 5.5mm in straight for a TP2,, what you going to pilot with? 2.5mm? 3mm? if the substrate is difficult that's a recipe for a snapped off drill in my book.....

Are your drill bits made out of chalk , yes I have snapped plenty of 4mm drill bits but never a masonry one.
The problem i find with going straight to the finished size is that the bigger drill takes more effort/ pushing to get the hole drilled and so you loose control but by going in first with a 4mm that goes in effortlessly then the 8or7mm after just go's in with no effort also. And the 4mm is doing most of the work and so your 8mm last longer and the 4mm is cheaper to replace.

 

[mrrusty]

Whatever. What I do works for me and has done for a very long time. The OP has struggled and we all have our opinion, but it prob boils down to slightly weedy tools and a lack of experience in hole drilling.....

 

[aveatry]

Back to the OP I think you will be better off with something like this for dot and dab

Corefix 100 Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixings 10mm x 100mm 4 Pack - Screwfix

 

[mrrusty]

Corefix 100 for a bog roll holder? really?

 

[aveatry]

Corefix 100 for a bog roll holder? really?

Yep have you seen the size of those double thickness ones that suposed to take up less packaging/ transport space.

 

[Mander]

Corefix 100 for a bog roll holder? really?

Hey if it's easier to get it in the wall straight then I'm all for it.