Wiring hive on a dual zone Glowworm Home 35

[dodski]

Yes, that seems correct.

If you have a go at the wiring, post some pictures here, and we can confirm, before you turn the power back on!

However, just removing the black wire isn't enough - if you don't do any further modifications to the wiring, it will still be a switched live wire from your existing thermostat - park it safely in one of the spare terminals on the left of the wiring centre.
If you can also trace the brown wire from that same cable, you can park that in a spare terminal.
That should, theoretically, decommission the mains cables to your old thermostat.

Is your existing thermostat battery operated? - the grey wires from the cable are already isolated in the terminal, second from the right.


You mention ebus, but we don't know if your existing thermostats use it. There is definitely a switched live, back to your boiler from the wiring centre.
Can we have a peep behind your existing stats to confirm?


Far more likely to be a combi with dual zone heating on a new-build, built after 2014, with that wiring centre.

yes it is a new build I can't get behind the room stats but think I will be all good now thank you so much

 

[EFLImpudence]

@dodski How are you getting on?


It occurred to me after I had worked out the valve wiring that there aren't really enough cables and wires in the picture so I wasn't sure what to advise.


There are the two valve cables at the top and three cables at the bottom (each brown, grey & black) - two thermostats and power.

One of the three brown wires at the bottom presumably is the call for heat from the programmer.
However, as this will only be live when calling for heat it will not be a suitable connection for the Hive.

Either that is correct or - if that is permanent live there is nothing to stop the heating being on other than both thermostats being satisfied.
Presumably you can turn off the heating in the summer.

So - is there another wiring box somewhere or where is the programmer? You may have to fit (or at least supply) the Hive from somewhere else.

A - signal from one thermostat to one valve.
B - signal from other thermostat to other valve.
C - Neutral.
D - signal from valve(s) to boiler.
E - Presumably one live from programmer and two to thermostats plus supplying the valves.
F - Spare.

 

[RandomGrinch]

It occurred to me after I had worked out the valve wiring that there aren't really enough cables and wires in the picture so I wasn't sure what to advise

Your original wiring diagram is fine, there are enough cables.
It's a two zone system on a combi, the stats will set the independent timings - it's just how it is with new builds since Part L.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ah. You mean they already have programmable thermostats. I never thought of that.

Thank you.

 

[dodski]

Thank you all so much its worked perfectly thank you

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[dodski]

thanks guys all working thanks so much

 

[dodski]

@dodski How are you getting on?


It occurred to me after I had worked out the valve wiring that there aren't really enough cables and wires in the picture so I wasn't sure what to advise.


There are the two valve cables at the top and three cables at the bottom (each brown, grey & black) - two thermostats and power.

One of the three brown wires at the bottom presumably is the call for heat from the programmer.
However, as this will only be live when calling for heat it will not be a suitable connection for the Hive.

Either that is correct or - if that is permanent live there is nothing to stop the heating being on other than both thermostats being satisfied.
Presumably you can turn off the heating in the summer.

So - is there another wiring box somewhere or where is the programmer? You may have to fit (or at least supply) the Hive from somewhere else.

View attachment 327941

A - signal from one thermostat to one valve.
B - signal from other thermostat to other valve.
C - Neutral.
D - signal from valve(s) to boiler.
E - Presumably one live from programmer and two to thermostats plus supplying the valves.
F - Spare.

 

[dodski]

Help!!!!! The other zone is now not working!!

Thanks for you picture with the labels. So I connected the hive as you originally said and it is working well on zone one but zone two is not working. The zone two stat is calling for heating but nothing happens.

The only difference I can see from your picture is I have remover one of the spares from F as I thought the was from the old thermostat in zone one.

Can you help again

 

[dodski]

This is how it is now

 

[dodski]

I had a wire the wrong way round I have fixed it. Thank you for all your help guys

 

[ericmark]

I really don't understand why people believe part L needs two hard wired zone valves, the TRV's split the system into zones, and once the head is replaced for an electronic head, then each room can have its own control. Only where the home is split into flats does it really need a hard wired zone valve.

The problem is the hard wired valve has just two options, open or closed, where the TRV gradually opens and closes, so with a gas modulating boiler is far better as it allows the boiler to modulate as it is designed to do, and gain the latent heat from the flue gases.

Even without that consideration, I know with my own house we have rooms we use as craft rooms, office, bedrooms, store room, living room, and kitchen, which were likely not at point house was designed considered that would be what they are used for. So being able to change the program for each room independently is important.

We need either a linked TRV or more than one wall thermostat in many homes as wind can alter which is the quickest room to cool. The wall thermostat should be in the fastest room to cool, it does not matter about heating speed, the lock shield valve can adjust the heating speed, it is the cooling speed that matters, no amount of adjusting can change the cooling speed.

I say this as my house is wrong, wall thermostat in the hall which must be around the most central position in the house. And it is opposite end of hall to radiator, and where the stairs are means heat goes up stairs before it turns off wall thermostat, but the biggest problem is how warm the thermostat gets is controlled by if doors open or closed, and my wife getting two kittens has resulted in leaving doors open, which has in turn messed up the central heating.

I know the cure, it is to fit a second wall thermostat in parallel, but it was not A1 before kittens, but good enough not to worry about.