Wiring in Furniture

[AnotherTom]

Hi folks, I'm new here.

I've built a big piece of (free standing) wooden furniture, and want to include some lights and maybe a socket/outlet.

Is there any reason I should not use mains wiring accessories and wall boxes for this? I would probably use metal backboxes and chisel them into thicker bits of wood (so that the wall box is completely inside the wood, not sticking out the back)

I would then wire it all up with flex and bring it back to a standard 13A plug

are there any rules/regulations/standards for this kind of thing?

I could buy an exsisting trailing socket or extension cable, but I think this would be tidier.

Tom

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Hi folks, I'm new here.

I've built a big piece of (free standing) wooden furniture, and want to include some lights and maybe a socket/outlet.

Is there any reason I should not use mains wiring accessories and wall boxes for this?

What is the furniture, and where will it be?

I would probably use metal backboxes and chisel them into thicker bits of wood (so that the wall box is completely inside the wood, not sticking out the back)

They'll need to be mightily thick pieces of wood...

 

[viewer]

A 13A socket? The current Nebraska protocol calls for a 20-second-long application of 2,450 volts of electricity.

 

[AnotherTom]

What is the furniture, and where will it be?

A raised bed, in a bedroom. Had an ikea one but it wobbled too much so I've built a pine one.

They'll need to be mightily thick pieces of wood...

It's 2x4, so a 25mm wall box should go in just fine...
I think I overdid the timber

 

[flyingsparks]

A raised bed, in a bedroom. Had an ikea one but it wobbled too much so I've built a pine

 

[viewer]

OK plenty more laughs to be had, I'm sure, but to serious for a moment.
Your idea is fine. You might want to put the socket(s) under the bed to save cutting and use 16mm box for the light switches. The wiring must be flex as things will move around but will need securely fixing to the bed where it could snag or be pulled. You need to consider the fusing. It is not a good idea to connect the bedlights to a 13A wall socket. If the bed socket is just for electric blankets you might be able to put a smaller fuse in the plug to the wall - depends on requirements for blankets - and use the socket as a junction box. It would be better to put an inline fuse in the cable to the light switches. Remember the heat from lamps has to go somewhere so positioning is important and, despite what you might read, there is some heat given off by LEDs so even these need cooling air.

 

[AnotherTom]

OK plenty more laughs to be had...

I have no idea what you are refereing to


I think your comment more or less follows my thinking, it's good get a second opinion.

I was going to use an unswitched fused spur box (e.g http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GU5000.html) to separate the light's wiring from the line to the socket. Probably with a 3A fuse.

The socket is mostly for things like phone chargers & laptops so I could use a small fuse - but it's probably going to get a hoover or something stuck in it eventually, so I will probably stick with 13A at the plug.

For lighting I'll probably buy finished fixtures and install them according to the instructions (for clearances etc). They won't be anywhere they are likely to be covered by bedding!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Might be worth thinking about connecting to the bed via a 15A rated IEC 60309 C13 & C14.....

 

[securespark]

Care to explain to the OP why?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Sorry, yes.

It seems neater.

It may allow the cord to be pulled free if the bed is moved, but that would depend on the angles involved.

If the bed does need to be moved it would avoid having to deal with a flex and plug trailing around.