Wood Burning Boiler Stove - plumbing of...

Bellsquarry

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I removed my "drawing" :oops: too quick.

Done something like that quite simple to do.

[quote]It has been suggested that I should fit some sort of auxiliary cylinder in the loft and get that to receive the hot flow. When it reaches temp it can be pumped to the main thermal store.[/QUOTE]

Totally unnecessary.

Yes i'm still working. Live about 5 miles from you.

It is always recommended to fit a heat leak radiator. It would take about 27.5kw to heat 300litres from 10 deg to 90 deg so around 4 hours if stove burning at full output.

Building control depends on what exactly you are proposing to do. Ring them. They are quite helpfull and will keep you right.

[quote] pump/injector on top of the gravit flow[/QUOTE]

Shouldn't be necessary.
 
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Thanks for all the posts guys. The gravity circuit makes sense - the challenge will be putting it in. I'll get some of the floorboards up at some point to see if there's a suitable route under the floor in my dining room so this (return) doesn't rise with the flow circuit. I probably won't post much more for a while as I need to work on getting the stove fitted, chimney flu fitted etc first. I also still don't know about the load bearing capacity of the joists which could be a show stopper for the heat store.
I'll update when I've made some progress!
Thanks,
Matt
 
Thanks 'tamz' that's the system I was banging on about, been done 100s of times & it works a treat.

I hope you're not giving any more of the 'dark arts' away to the DaftyDIY'ers & CC/CCCs???!!!..............See you down the Lodge tonight for a pint Big Chap......... ;)
 
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A related question. I am looking at a 12Kw stove with 5kw to room, and the balance of 7kw to the boiler. I have a 300litre thermal store. Do you think I would need a relief radiator in the system as well or would the thermal store be big enough?

Mike

I do not believe that you will be able to boil that amount of water with a 5kw unless you try very very hard.

You should find this thread very interesting
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=196170

Below is the interesting bit from cbell: I saved it to file some time ago after thinking it a very useful post:

I'll get shouted at for saying this, but unless your wood-burner is absolutely massive and your house microscopic you really, honestly don't need to worry about boiling the water in the heat store unless you are catastrophically stupid.

This is because boiling 210 litres of water requires a *lot* of heat. The figures work out like this:

The specific heat capacity of water is 4200 Joules / kg / deg C, or in plain english it takes 4200 Joules to raise the temperature of 1 kg (= 1 litre) of water by 1 deg C.

Lets say that your store is already at 50 deg C, then to raise 210 litres by another 50 deg C to boiling point requires

210 x 4200 x 50 = 44.1e6 Joules, = 44.1e3 kiloJoules (kJ)

Stove outputs will be rated in kiloWatts (kW). 1 watt = 1 Joule for 1 second, so 1 kiloWatt = 1 kiloJoule for 1 second.

So let's say that your stove generates heat in the water jacket at the rate of 10kW, then it will take 44.1e3 kJ divided by 10 kW seconds to deliver all that heat, which is 4410 seconds, or 73.5 minutes, or about 1 and a quarter hours.

So you would have to blaze your stove at its rated full capacity for an least an hour and a quarter to boil that tank if it was already at 50 deg C, and for at least 2 hours if the water in the tank was at room temperature.

In practice the system will lose heat in pipework and elsewhere, meaning that it will take longer to heat the water, and it is pretty much impossible to run a wood-burner at full capacity for that length of time anyway since it consumes the wood too fast. So you would probably have to run the thing flat out for between 2 and 3 hours, refuelling it at least two times, while simultaneously not drawing any heat at all out into the CH system, for the tank to get anywhere near boiling.

If you *did* chose to do this you would get lots of audible warning from the stove itself as the water in its boilers started to hiss and bubble.

You would have to be completely nuts (and deaf) to get into this situation, and since a wood-burner has to be manually refuelled it simply is not a problem in practice.

As I said at the top of this post all of the above is based on actual experience: we have a wood-burner rated at 20kW, of which (nominally) 3kW goes to the room and 17kW to the water jacket, and an oil-fired boiler rated at 15kW. Last winter the wood-burner heated the whole house so long as I fed it enough wood.

That last point is worth considering: we burned about 1.5 tons of wood last January when it was really cold, and averaged about 1 ton/month through the winter as a whole. That's a lot of wood, and if you haven't got anywhere to store it you need to think long and hard about this whole exercise.
 
As pointed out by the Master Plumber Mr Puller on that thread; The DaftyDIY'er has a MV on the oil boiler Flow, between the boiler & the Neutral point cylinder. What happens if the boiler thermostat is faulty!!! Any appliance on an open vented system needs two open vented pipes, namely the F&E.
 
I do not believe that you will be able to boil that amount of water with a 5kw unless you try very very hard

Don't kid yourself.

Think of this
Stove 7kw max output to water.
Get up at 7am light stove. Existing store of water still around 50 deg.
Keep topping up stove all day (say average output about 3kw)
Draw off 2-3 basins full of water throughout day (about 25 litres?)

300 litres x 4.2 x 50 = 63000kj = 17.5kw/h

Even allowing for heat losses from pipes by the end of the day there will be no snow on your roof.

This is all theory because in reality the pump would switch on (as long as it has power) :LOL:
 
I agree with tamz, a heat leak & Hi-Lo pipe stats are required - regardless of system design.
 
and I said I'd be gone for a while... :)
My parents have a smokeless coal boiler - about 25 years old now. It feed in coal (anthracite I think) automatically and has an electronic thermostat that controls a fan to regulate temperature. It has a standard 6" (?) flue pipe extending above the house.
On a windy night (their roof is the highest point for miles), the boiler draws so much it easily boils the water in the tank (vented) if the central heating is off, and it heats the central heating so hot that air forms in the water so the rads have to be bled fairly regularly. There's a sink radiator in the garage (always on) to help keep things under control but even then the water can boil when it's windy.
It's been like this since installed. As a child my bedroom was in the loft (next to the water tank). The rumbling used to wake me up in the night! If it was bad I used to go downstairs and run off a load of hot water. Air and steam sometimes came spurting out.
My Dad uses to work for British Coal so gets the stuff free as part of his pension. They must have the warmest house in the country ;o).

All this said, I know log burners are different as if you heard it hissing and rumbling you probably wouldn't keep adding logs (I'd suggest closing the air vents and leaving the room!), but just to back up some of the other posts, solid fuel can get your water really hot if you're not dissipating heat quickly enough from the system.
 
Probably a TRG45 or 60. Anthracite at present is crap.

Cant talk my ma out of hers,free coal and a £10 a year gas bill. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the posts guys. The gravity circuit makes sense - the challenge will be putting it in. I'll get some of the floorboards up at some point to see if there's a suitable route under the floor in my dining room so this (return) doesn't rise with the flow circuit. I probably won't post much more for a while as I need to work on getting the stove fitted, chimney flu fitted etc first. I also still don't know about the load bearing capacity of the joists which could be a show stopper for the heat store.
I'll update when I've made some progress!
Thanks,
Matt

If you're considering a DPS store then talk to them first about the other options available ( and there's at least two) before you start ripping up floors on advice gained from an internet forum.
Even if your not using their product then get their advice.
What has been proposed is from the past and out dated IMO! The work of dinosaurs. Time moves on and better solutions become available!

Remember if it all goes wrong, its you who has to sort it out whilst the two Jocks who recommended this arrangement are sitting down the lodge sipping pints , discussing the merits of the brotherhood. :rolleyes:

I might not have the experience of the two plumbers above but I have thirty years experience with my own solid fuel system which as I already said is arranged similar to yours regarding floor layout.
And FWIW Dunsley were established in 1953 so have quite a bit of experience so I wouldn't discount their advice either on the limitations of an up and under circuit.
I would be loath to do what they have suggested considering the other options available.
And BTW my system was installed by time served plumbers experienced in solid fuel and from the initial install took about two years to sort out properly. Be warned.
Just my tuppence worth.
 
Because i have been doing the job for many years doesn't mean i am stuck in a time warp. Very much up to date and trained to fit just about any system you can name.

What it does mean though is i have a wealth of knowledge AND experience which has been gathered throughout the years. Some passed on by the hundreds of other plumbers, heating engineers and gas fitters i have worked alongside, and some just learned the hard way.

What has been proposed is from the past and out dated IMO

Gravity circulation from any solid fuel appliance is always preferable where possible and is very much in the present. Pumps should be used only where gravity circulation is not possible.
It is easily possible to do a loop layout as shown with a little bit of thought and some common sense.
Back circulation will not be a problem as the return is dipped well down then rises back to the boiler. It may be if it is run horizontally. If the house has timber floors and a solum this is not a problem, otherwise it would not be done. As i said before this hardly involves "ripping" up the floor.

This layout is different to what Dunsley call an "up and under" circuit because as you may have noticed there is no neutraliser to run through to kill the circulation pressure. Dunsley recommend their way of doing it (on their systems obviously) because they have to guarantee, if they mention it, that no matter what halfwit installs it, it will work.

The OP asked how he could achieve gravity circulation to the thermal store and was given the answer. If he feels unsure of his capacity to do the job correctly this way then by all means he should use an accelerated gravity.

[/quote]I might not have the experience of the two plumbers above but I have thirty years experience with my own solid fuel system
I quite believe you can easily light a fire probably with one sheet of newspaper.
my system was installed by time served plumbers experienced in solid fuel and from the initial install took about two years to sort out properly
Obviously not as experienced as you thought then :LOL:

Maybe you are right. Maybe we are like dinosaurs, a dying breed.
The trade is full of bad so called "tradesmen" who don't know their a*$* from their elbow and take pride in nothing but the size of their wage packet or the ones who do the courses and 6 weeks later they are out on their own, black belt in everything, with nothing but google, diynot and the school of hard knocks to learn from.
But then again maybe there is hope. There are still a lot of good real "tradesmen". They are just harder to find. Time will tell. (Wee rant there) :oops:

Your tuppence worth is welcome but that is all it is!

BTW i might have taken offence to being called a Jock :LOL:
 
And FWIW Dunsley were established in 1953 so have quite a bit of experience so I wouldn't discount their advice either on the limitations of an up and under circuit....................Another pearl of wisdom!!........ :LOL:

Look son Dunsley didn't start manufacturing solid fuel back boiler until the early 70s & advocated the use of a single pipe system, that by that time was about 10 years out of date. The Baker nuetralizer was not even a new concept & was produced by a guy in Ulster called Mr Baker - again it was old technoligy. Two ears one mouth son!!
 

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