Wood burning Stove questions

Yea that's what I have been thinking, 250mm is a big step up from the floor. All the pictures I see of fires etc dont have this big a hearth.

obviusly only the top 50mm or so will be stone, how would the rest of the hearth be filled?
 
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For inside the fireplace I want it to be plasteboarded and skimmed, is this standard boards and skim?
No that’s no good, it will fail ; you clearly haven’t read the links I posted regarding suitable render/plaster/boarding materials for inside a fire opening & around the stove itself! Gypsum plaster or plaster board (even Fireline) is not suitable where temperatures regularly exceed 49 C, it will fail in a very short time.

Yea that's what I have been thinking, 250mm is a big step up from the floor. All the pictures I see of fires etc dont have this big a hearth.

obviusly only the top 50mm or so will be stone, how would the rest of the hearth be filled?
You cannot take any notice of pictures you see in a magazine or static displays in shops, they are for aesthetic & sales purposes only & are meaningless. The 250mm is only applicable if the hearth rests on a combustible material & the hearth temperature will exceed 100C; in this case common sense should tell you the thickness is required to prevent the material underneath self igniting or suffering structural failure due to the heat. For the BR’s specifically, see the Approved Document Part J;
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2010.pdf
 
Hello, booked a HETAS guy to fit, thanks for everyones help so far.


1 last question, how much are you guys paying for a ton of logs?


Ta. :)
 
last question, how much are you guys paying for a ton of logs?
A sawmill near me advertises in our local paper for a flat bed truck load for £100 or £130 delivered but no idea if that constitutes a ton. I get all my firewood free ;) ; it either comes from a frined who has a timber recycling yard, a developer who lets me log the trees he cuts down from his new building sites or from my own garden. :LOL:

Hope you sorted that plasterboard & skim out for something more suitable, it will fail if you don't ;)
 
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Well sort of, the HETAS guy also said no boards, he said Render it but when I spoke to the builder he was worried about the sulpher on the brick work and the render not sticking?
 
Hello, booked a HETAS guy to fit, thanks for everyones help so far.


1 last question, how much are you guys paying for a ton of logs?


Ta. :)
Not sold by ton weight - or any other weight now :idea: I remember a few years back some *person* took a log seller to court because the load that was delivered didn`t weigh what it was "supposed " to .FFS :rolleyes: And that was the start of the " Am I being ripped off "culture , so since then you get a load in a container and agree to pay £x. for it . Simples ;)
 
last question, how much are you guys paying for a ton of logs?
A sawmill near me advertises in our local paper for a flat bed truck load for £100 or £130 delivered but no idea if that constitutes a ton. I get all my firewood free ;) ; it either comes from a frined who has a timber recycling yard, a developer who lets me log the trees he cuts down from his new building sites or from my own garden. :LOL:

Hope you sorted that plasterboard & skim out for something more suitable, it will fail if you don't ;)

Hello, We arn't boarding now, how do you neutralise the sulpher/soot on the bricks before rendering please?
 
It can be difficult to stop it bleeding through & staining but you first need to get rid of as much of the soot as possible by scrubbing/washing down. One solution involves using cow dung in a lime plaster mix (seriously) but a modern way of doing it may be to use an SBR sealer/bonding slurry mix over the bricks before applying a sand/cement/lime (5:1:1/6:1:1) render mix; even then you may still get bleed through.

Make sure you add the lime or it’ll crack & apply in two coats, the second weaker than the first.
 

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