Worc cdi - new diaphragm

[thomas28]

Hi there.

I've traced some drips to the diverter valve so need to replace the diaphragm. Looks like i need to remove the plate h/e. Manufacturers must have had a laugh putting the diverter there!!

Couple of questions..

1. Any tips on the d/v including how to remove the back screws. Do you guys use a little ratchet screwdriver or similar.

2. The iso valves look fragile. Can you drain a combi without draininng down the whole of the system.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[nickso]

dont touch the iso valves whatever you do.

where is it leaking from? the small holes in between the diaphragm section and the diverter section?

removing the diverter or diaphragm housing is not for the faint hearted on this model.

 

[Agile]

I took a trainee and replaced the whole valve for a friend a couple of months ago.

The job took 2 1/4 hours although I suppose if the boiler was more easily accessible I could have done it a little quicker.

It had been leaking for two years and some of the parts were well corroded and took time to seperate.

If everything worked like a new boiler about 1 hour! But they never do!

I refer customers to Worcester!

Tony

 

[clf-gas]

You took some one who could use a spanner

Take a long lasting look at yourself 2.75hours fooking chalatan

 

[Agile]

That trainee has a degree in electronics and his ACS assessments.

2 1/4 hours is 2.25 hours not 2.75 hours!

 

[thomas28]

dont touch the iso valves whatever you do.

where is it leaking from? the small holes in between the diaphragm section and the diverter section?

removing the diverter or diaphragm housing is not for the faint hearted on this model.

Thanks Nickso.

Its leaking from out of the central pin that hits the microswitch. I have a service kit with all the bits included.

Agree with your comment about not touching the iso valves. Is it ok to just drain the boiler by the prv. Or i also see what looks like a plastic drain off. Will the rest of the system water stay in the rads - or when i remove the heat ex will all that water just come flooding out. I'm sure you guys dont drain down when you work on combis day in day out.

 

[gavinda]

is this the one with the plate hex on the front and a puch fit albion valve. if so... good bloody luck, ive had to take the last 2 off the wall for this.... stupid isolation valves leaking when not touched muttermuttermutter

 

[gas_man_gaz]

use the plastic drain off unless ya want to replace the prv aswell.. if i was you id replace the entire valve tho. to reseal the diverter ya need a special tool plus as i remember the new diverter valves come with all the seals for the calorifier and other bits ya need to remove to actually get to it!

 

[fitz1]

did one in a loft once and the iso was leaking after i finished. so as not to leave customer without, i took it off and sweated some solder on and around the slot. worked a treat.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

jus change um to LD jobs then gavinda

 

[nickso]

dont touch the iso valves whatever you do.

where is it leaking from? the small holes in between the diaphragm section and the diverter section?

removing the diverter or diaphragm housing is not for the faint hearted on this model.

Thanks Nickso.

Its leaking from out of the central pin that hits the microswitch. I have a service kit with all the bits included.

Agree with your comment about not touching the iso valves. Is it ok to just drain the boiler by the prv. Or i also see what looks like a plastic drain off. Will the rest of the system water stay in the rads - or when i remove the heat ex will all that water just come flooding out. I'm sure you guys dont drain down when you work on combis day in day out.

you can use either of the white plastic drainoffs if you like but they usually dont work. the prv is fine if you have a spare handy as more often than not it will leak after its been opened. i change them as standard now.

the water in the rads should stay in. the biggest issue is that when you remove the heatex both the heating and mains water side will try to **** into your pcb housing. if you have time removing the pcb housing completely is the safest answer. if you dont then a plastic bag over it or using the service hinges above the normal ones does work but restricts your movement in other ways. you will need to remove the filling elbow too. not only that but the nylon bushes that seem to be leaking in your case can be a pig to get out. i dont bother trying anymore and just replace the whole section that is leaking, that will be pricey for you though.

i really cant stress enough that unless you are ultra keen to do this yourself and are a complete masochist then i would get either worcester or a good local to do this.

 

[nickso]

if i was you id replace the entire valve tho.

thats the very last thing i would do. if its just the end bush thats leaking buy a complete diverter and split it. the less you take out of that nightmare the better.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

if i was you id replace the entire valve tho.

thats the very last thing i would do. if its just the end bush thats leaking buy a complete diverter and split it. the less you take out of that nightmare the better.

i see ya point but while the boiler is drained n most of the guts removed it int that much more work to fit the entire valve

 

[gas_man_gaz]

ahhhh jus seen the op is from sheff, dnt phone bg

 

[superdupergasman]

if i was you id replace the entire valve tho.

thats the very last thing i would do. if its just the end bush thats leaking buy a complete diverter and split it. the less you take out of that nightmare the better.

Have you managed to get the top plate off the diverter Nickso without taking the whole thing out??

That trainee has a degree in electronics and his ACS assessments

I do too and thats not bad going for a first attempt.... how many leaks were repaired Tony after trying to turn on cold mains and refill CH system??