WORCESTER 28Si II

[kusy1993]

Hello
I purchased

Pardon our interruption...

timer for my boiler, because the previous one did not work, I connected it exactly as the manufacturer of the new one instructed:
"Just remove your old one from your panel, remove the jumper connecting terminals 2 &3 and fit this to your new timer, and clip the new digital one in its place and welcome to the 21st century. The red wire connects to terminal 1, the black to 3 and the blue to 5."

I did so, but the timer does not get power, only the diode lights up if I put in a bridge like in the old one, could any of you help me please, I am sending photos with the serial number of the boiler and the new and old timers.

Please help!

 

[RandomGrinch]

You would put the bridge between terminals 2 and 3 on the new timer.
The black wire would stay in terminal 3.
The red wire would stay in terminal 1.
But move the blue wire to terminal 4.

 

[RandomGrinch]

So sorry!
That's a lie!
The layout has changed from the old timer. Inserting a simple bridge, like the existing won't work.
The Black wire can move to terminal 2, but then you need to make a link between terminal 2 and terminal 4 - something that the bridge link can not achieve.
And leave the blue wire in terminal 5.

 

[Madrab]

On the old stat

1 is N (red) - which is opposite standard wiring
3 is L (black) - which is opposite standard wiring
3 bridges L to 2
4 is SL (NO) (Blue)

So .... On the new stat -

Black to 1 (L)
Red to 2 (N)
Blue to 4 (NO)(SL)
and Bridge 1 (L) to 5 (com)

I think


Just circuit test each one to make sure wheat's live and what's not and check where its heading on the PCB.

 

[JohnD]

It sounds like you have bought an SI (= Service Interval) programmer.

These are specifically designed to prevent the boiler working properly at predefined intervals, to make the tenant get it serviced.

Their proper place is in the bin, but sometimes they are sold cheap to unsuspecting buyers.

 

[kusy1993]

You would put the bridge between terminals 2 and 3 on the new timer.
The black wire would stay in terminal 3.
The red wire would stay in terminal 1.
But move the blue wire to terminal 4.

I'll check it when I get home, as I mentioned, I connected it earlier, as the supplier told me, but there was no power to the timer, but when I connected the bridge, there was power, but I couldn't control the boiler temporarily to turn it on and off at the right time, do you think that only the blue cable was moved? sideways will help, buddy

 

[kusy1993]

On the old stat

1 is N (red) - which is opposite standard wiring
3 is L (black) - which is opposite standard wiring
3 bridges L to 2
4 is SL (NO) (Blue)

So .... On the new stat -

Black to 1 (L)
Red to 2 (N)
Blue to 4 (NO)(SL)
and Bridge 1 (L) to 5 (com)

I think


Just circuit test each one to make sure wheat's live and what's not and check where its heading on the PCB.

Hi mate

I did as you wrote, the diode lights up but unfortunately the stove doesn't turn on by itself :/

 

[RandomGrinch]

Hi mate

I did as you wrote, the diode lights up but unfortunately the stove doesn't turn on by itself :/

in your earlier photo, you had the black wire in terminal 3 and the blue in terminal 5 - this arrangement should have turned the boiler on, if the timer was unpowered.

If the boiler didn't turn on,

timer for my boiler, because the previous one did not work,

I'm wondering if there was another problem on the boiler, and the old timer wasn't the issue.

Basically, connecting the blue and black wire together, should turn on the boiler.

 

[kusy1993]

you know the boiler works properly because I use it without a timer, switching from summer to winter and the heating works etc. but I would like to be able to start the timer to turn it on automatically e.g. at night

 

[kusy1993]

in the previous message I meant that it does not turn on by timer

 

[RandomGrinch]

in the previous message I meant that it does not turn on by timer

That's what I'm trying to establish.
Connecting the blue and black wires together should turn the heating on.
If it doesn't, then it's not the timers fault.
Can you try connecting the wires like this (with the bridge in place), on the old timer and see if the heating turns on?

 

[Stuckinarut]

If the previous one didn’t work, what made you think a new one would?