worcester bosch 15/19 problem

Agile said:
I hope you are better with your aircraft engines than boilers!

Why the ridicule?

From what I have read quickly its not obvious that the boiler thinks the hot water tank is hot enough!

Boilers might be clever, but they don't think.

have you confirmed that the tank stat/sensor is operating correctly and showing the boiler that its satisfied?

Might be a point, but it will have nothing to do with the CH fault

What CO² percentage should I expect from my RB211 ?

You haven't got a RB211, and you definitely wouldn't have the knowledge to service it. :rolleyes:
 
Sponsored Links
For your info on the older heatslaves the diverter moved across for Hot water (the type where the actuator sits at an angle). Also the pump running all the time is probably the pump overrun board. It's a tiny pcb on the right hand side of the control box.
 
His first comment was """symptoms are dhw very warm""" !!!

That implies to me that the boiler thinks that the DHW still needs heating up. I would conclude that the sensor/stat is not operating to tell the boiler that the DHW is satisfied.

The motor valve is obviously working as it "returns when fuse is pulled" so I conclude that its control is faulty and my first expectation is that the boiler still thinks there is more heating of the DHW required.

Whilst none of us can be right all the time, I still think my logical reasoning is likely to be correct.

My Rb211 is used on a generator!

Tony
 
latest update lads.Disconected diverter v/v supply from pcb, pump still running and rads warm,but no dhw, so i get ch no is matter whether v/v is energised or not.
 
Sponsored Links
Went to local plumbcentre, for new diverter v/v with £80 in my pocket to be told its £189 plus vat holy ***t!
looks like i will have to get someone since its a £200plus gamble??
Any other checks I can perform to confirm this is the failed component?
 
does the boiler fire up when you open the hot tap? If not then it needs a new flow switch. The old ones were a reed type and they have been replaced withe a kit with a paddle switch.
 
No joy as yet in getting a cheaper valve as yet,an installer at another suppliers agreed with Wilhelm daignosis, but when asked if he wanted to look at it he said no chance "thats a ba****d to change".It looks fairly straightforward, so am I missing something? or do the fittings not reseal after disturbing them , any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
latest is burnt contacts on relay no 3 in pcb,so new relay or replacement board,diverter v/v i think is not 100% and passing.Pump running but probably a failsafe to default to run all the time when relay fails
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top