worktop jig
- Thread starter navgeeza
- Start date
Sponsored Links
fitter said:
fitter,
Find a picture you want to use, right click on the picture and click on properties, copy & paste URL address then click onto on the diynot forum copy & paste the address then click [img] again, should look like this below.
[img ]http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdImage/TB19798.jpg
Masona
Thanks for that, I'll give it a try next time.
Must say I'm a bit worried about posting before yours. I think he may have been trying to say something to me but just put question mark in.
I hope he realised I was only joking about having to kill him.
Thanks for that, I'll give it a try next time.
Must say I'm a bit worried about posting before yours. I think he may have been trying to say something to me but just put question mark in.
I hope he realised I was only joking about having to kill him.
I am also in need of somebody to make a Worktop join for me (I did consider tackling it myself until I read these posts).
I don't suppose 'Fitter' lives anywhere near Bournemouth?
Failing that, can anybody recommend a compitent fitter around Bournemouth/Christchurch area?
Thanks.
I don't suppose 'Fitter' lives anywhere near Bournemouth?
Failing that, can anybody recommend a compitent fitter around Bournemouth/Christchurch area?
Thanks.
Sponsored Links
your very good at telling people the cant do it {fitter}
im sure the could with a few practices its easy
im also a fitter and the worktops are probably the easiest thing
after the cornice and light rail that is
the hardest part is all the lifting and carrying
so come on and dont talk crap to all these people
im sure the could with a few practices its easy
im also a fitter and the worktops are probably the easiest thing
after the cornice and light rail that is
the hardest part is all the lifting and carrying
so come on and dont talk crap to all these people
- Joined
- 15 Dec 2007
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Well, after the discussion, I just did it. Hired the jig and the router from the local tool hire store, bought a brand new blade, and set to work.
The worktop was a U formation, and the main problem was that the base of the U was not at right angles - one corner was 110 degrees, the other was 85 degrees. Old Somerset houses are not built square!
The trick was to cut in the worktops on the two walls of the U first, then to rough-cut in the worktop at the base of the U leaving plenty of overhang for potential mistakes!
Setting up the jig simply requires an absolute 90 degree , regardless of the back angle, on all cuts. Provided you have a carpenter's square, it's easy enough to get. You pencil in the right angles AS IF the walls were square, then set the jig to these lines. It meant that I had to remove the stops on the jig, but that wasn't too much of a problem.
Measuring, and getting the angles absolutely at right angles is the key to success.
Once the right angles are pencilled in (I used white paper masking tape on the top of the work surface so I could see it easily, and to protect the laminate), I removed the stops of the jig (they would have set the jig to the wall angle, not to 90 degrees), set the jig by measuring the width of the cut from the edge of the jig, then did the cut.
The first cut was slightly out, but only because I misunderstood the cryptic markings on the jig. Having allowed plenty of overhang for mistakes, it was easily rectified in a second, more accurate cut.
I now have beautiful mason's mitres on both joints, neither of which are on right angle walls. Once you understand the jig, it really isn't as difficult as one might think.
But it does require VERY careful measuring, and you cannot afford to say 'I THINK the jig works like this'. You HAVE to understand the way the jig is set up. For example, the length of the dogbone cuts are set to the length of the standard bolts - and they are marked on the jig. But you have to realise that first!
Once you understand the jig, the rest is fairly straightforward. As I said, I used a new cutting blade, and took only 10mm at a time, thus keeping the blade sharp. I found it also helps to make the cuts fairly fast - not going slowly as one might think - so that the blade is kept fairly cool. There are two exceptions to the fast-cut - when you are cutting through the laminate, and when making the final smooth cut.
Be prepared for VERY large amounts of sawdust - after five cuts, the kitchen looked like an old fashioned butcher's shop - at least half an inch of sawdust in the cutting areas, and fine dust everywhere. If I could have done it, I would have cut outside!
I would not describe myself as an experienced DIYer - and this was my first kitchen installation. I had shown the drawings to an experienced fitter, who didn't like the angles at all. The quote was £100 a corner. £200 for making the joints was too much, which is why I decided to do it myself.
The hints and tips on this forum were a huge help - without them, I wouldn't have attempted it
I'm glad I did. The finished result looks great, and I am doubly proud of the difficult angles.
The worktop was a U formation, and the main problem was that the base of the U was not at right angles - one corner was 110 degrees, the other was 85 degrees. Old Somerset houses are not built square!
The trick was to cut in the worktops on the two walls of the U first, then to rough-cut in the worktop at the base of the U leaving plenty of overhang for potential mistakes!
Setting up the jig simply requires an absolute 90 degree , regardless of the back angle, on all cuts. Provided you have a carpenter's square, it's easy enough to get. You pencil in the right angles AS IF the walls were square, then set the jig to these lines. It meant that I had to remove the stops on the jig, but that wasn't too much of a problem.
Measuring, and getting the angles absolutely at right angles is the key to success.
Once the right angles are pencilled in (I used white paper masking tape on the top of the work surface so I could see it easily, and to protect the laminate), I removed the stops of the jig (they would have set the jig to the wall angle, not to 90 degrees), set the jig by measuring the width of the cut from the edge of the jig, then did the cut.
The first cut was slightly out, but only because I misunderstood the cryptic markings on the jig. Having allowed plenty of overhang for mistakes, it was easily rectified in a second, more accurate cut.
I now have beautiful mason's mitres on both joints, neither of which are on right angle walls. Once you understand the jig, it really isn't as difficult as one might think.
But it does require VERY careful measuring, and you cannot afford to say 'I THINK the jig works like this'. You HAVE to understand the way the jig is set up. For example, the length of the dogbone cuts are set to the length of the standard bolts - and they are marked on the jig. But you have to realise that first!
Once you understand the jig, the rest is fairly straightforward. As I said, I used a new cutting blade, and took only 10mm at a time, thus keeping the blade sharp. I found it also helps to make the cuts fairly fast - not going slowly as one might think - so that the blade is kept fairly cool. There are two exceptions to the fast-cut - when you are cutting through the laminate, and when making the final smooth cut.
Be prepared for VERY large amounts of sawdust - after five cuts, the kitchen looked like an old fashioned butcher's shop - at least half an inch of sawdust in the cutting areas, and fine dust everywhere. If I could have done it, I would have cut outside!
I would not describe myself as an experienced DIYer - and this was my first kitchen installation. I had shown the drawings to an experienced fitter, who didn't like the angles at all. The quote was £100 a corner. £200 for making the joints was too much, which is why I decided to do it myself.
The hints and tips on this forum were a huge help - without them, I wouldn't have attempted it
I'm glad I did. The finished result looks great, and I am doubly proud of the difficult angles.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
