Worktop mitering

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Though intimidating at first, the wprktop jig is not difficult to use if you approach the job with care. Check that you have it set to the correct setting for the top ie 600mm and bear in mind that some tops are 615 deep. More up to date jigs allow for this
cut from left to right, turn the top over when needed to prevent splitting the bullnose and take your time, use shollow cuts rather than forcing the router, if not kept level it is so easy to ruin the joint.
I have had more problems with the tops being bowed than anything else, no matter how much you clout it with your trusty hammer the joint will never run flush, there is as much skill involved bolting it up as there is cutting it.
you dont need a worktop to practice, a bit of ply will suffice to get the hang of setting up and cutting.
I was astounded to read of a charge of 65 notes per joint, i only charge 30 and the local magnets charge 40, i think i had better review my prices lol.
 
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well i never did a worktop mitre b4 and was keen to diy. got a jig and me router and after a bit of practice I now charge £75 per joint :evil:
 
Incidentally, any tips on mitreing off square joints - do you loosely lay worktops and mark a pencil line to set the jig to or what?
 
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[
[
quote]Blimey that's not kept up with inflation. How's da man supposed to make a living...


I know M8. some charge lots more. spose thats why they always on golf course an i'm workin meself to me grave :( [/quote]
 
Hi there have been reading all of your advice regarding fitting worktops and decided to try it myself, I bought a silverline worktop jig along with an 1850 watt router and TCT cutters
Now the problem, the radius of the male section is a different radius to the female section, when offered together the radius holds the straight edges off by over by about 2 mm. Can any one throw some light on whats wrong.

Dave
 
The first thing I would try would be to use a decent file to try and file down the larger radius a bit at a time until everything fitted.
 
Straight edges you've cut, or straight edges at back of worktop? For former the bushes were probably not flush with the back of the worktop, for the latter a sloppy backstop setting.
 

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