Worried my back boiler going to explode
- Thread starter LovemePal
- Start date
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It's a long time since my parents had this sort of fire so my memory of the layout is hazy but is it possible some debris from the chimney rebuild is preventing the damper plate closing off the path through the back boiler?
Thinking you're on the right track, Jack.....weren't some systems controlled by rods at the bottom, and some by reaching in above the fire?
Bit hazy on that one!
John
Bit hazy on that one!
John
Thanks guys - yes that's the system I assume we have. All the radiators work with the oil heating. Had wondered about the damper being blocked. But with the fire going turning it on and off still makes a massive difference to the direction of the flames, with it directed to the boiler nearly all the flames get sucked back, so can't be that blocked right?
Who would I call out to have a look - is it a chimney sweep or a plumber?
Who would I call out to have a look - is it a chimney sweep or a plumber?
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Thinking you're on the right track, Jack.....weren't some systems controlled by rods at the bottom, and some by reaching in above the fire?
Bit hazy on that one!
John
Too long ago for me to remember John. I think ours was a lever at the top.
I'm wondering if the plate on the top will somehow lift off so you can get access to clear away any junk.
You need a very old plumber LovemePal.
Mebbe you've started using an immersion heater since the chimney work?
Solid fuel systems usually have a heat leak rad fitted to dissipate excess heat.
That usually avoids turning the loft into a steam room. There could be a heat leak rad up in the loft for all you know and its become blocked.
The way your back boiler is operating at the moment is how I would expect it to work with no heat leak rad fitted or no pumps fitted or faulty.
Basically boiling the cylinder.
Solid fuel systems usually have a heat leak rad fitted to dissipate excess heat.
That usually avoids turning the loft into a steam room. There could be a heat leak rad up in the loft for all you know and its become blocked.
The way your back boiler is operating at the moment is how I would expect it to work with no heat leak rad fitted or no pumps fitted or faulty.
Basically boiling the cylinder.
Have a look in loft and see if there is a feed and expansion tank.
Need to check if cylinder is direct or indirect.
Also has the builder rebuild the chimney exactly the same as original chimney?
Daniel.
Need to check if cylinder is direct or indirect.
Also has the builder rebuild the chimney exactly the same as original chimney?
Daniel.
Thanks everyone for your comments. There is a fused switch in the hot press which I assume is the immersion that was switched to off, I've switched it the other way and will light a small fire, see what happens. Maybe it's a pump. If it's no different I guess it's something blocking the damper, or maybe there's a pump in the system that has broken down like you said Norcon. Next step is finding a plumber who knows what they're looking at! Has been really good to talk it through, at the very least. Happy Sunday to you all!
Daniel, yes there's 2 tanks in the loft, and in the hot press there's the main tank and then a tiny cylinder to the side which we thought was part of the back boiler system. Yes as far as we know the builder rebult the chimney same as previous, it was just to repair some cracked bricks but he took it down to below roof level and all new bricks and pot. Norcon I'll get up in the loft again and check if there's anything looks like could be a heat leak rad. If the builders didn't know it was there, maybe it's something that could have been damaged somehow. Thanks again all!
Good call, yes there's a cable to the small cylinder, so I'll just leave it switched as it is and see if we get hot water, then I'll know which way it needs to stay. Fingers crossed it's that simple!
Working on the coincidence theory, there is the possibility that the builder has dropped debris down the flue with the result that it is preventing the damper from closing completely. With the fire out you need to get your hand onto the top of the damper plate and confirm that there is no debris on top and when you close it that it moves freely and that there is no gap left over the boiler back channel.
Then when you light the fire, even a relatively small one confirm that when you close the damper, that there is no tendency for the flame to be drawn into the back boiler.
Can you also confirm if the boiler is a full wrap-around type (ie forming the full fire back unit, or is it a simple small copper box at the base of the fire, about 6" in depth.
If it is a complete wrap-around it'll probably be steel (magnetic) and if only a small one the chances are it'll be copper (non-magnetic)
In the pre-70s era, before central heating became fashionable wrap arounds were rare.
Then when you light the fire, even a relatively small one confirm that when you close the damper, that there is no tendency for the flame to be drawn into the back boiler.
Can you also confirm if the boiler is a full wrap-around type (ie forming the full fire back unit, or is it a simple small copper box at the base of the fire, about 6" in depth.
If it is a complete wrap-around it'll probably be steel (magnetic) and if only a small one the chances are it'll be copper (non-magnetic)
In the pre-70s era, before central heating became fashionable wrap arounds were rare.
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