Wylex metal consumer unit..how to remove a knockout

Joined
30 Oct 2012
Messages
113
Reaction score
8
Location
Leicestershire
Country
United Kingdom
Title says it all really, don't laugh, (ok, you can laugh) but the knockouts are determined to stay put! Don't want to scratch the paint to bits, so anyone any tips for best practise please?
 
Last edited:
Sponsored Links
I usually use a centre punch. The sharp point stops it skidding and it's short enough to fit in confined spaces (usually)
 
Sometimes if the pressing has been a bit out of spec they can be hard to remove, I have nearly destroyed some metalclad sockets before now, but as above with a smart blow
 
Sponsored Links
I've got a small cross pein (never knew it was spelled that way 'till I googled it) hammer. Some may call it a tack hammer.

A sharp strike (or several) with the corner usually does the trick.
 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions I'll certainly give them a bash now that I know that's the correct technique.
 
there are lots of techniques. the trick is to break one of the little nibs holding them in place without bending the box.

I like to stab them with long-nosed pliers and then grab the twisted disk and wiggle it free, then pull it out.
 
The key thing is to give it a good hard smack. Be too timid and you risk it bending - what you want is for the strike to be so fast that the joins break before the knockout has time to deform.
 
Knockouts can be total b*stards, but the ones in metalclad back boxes are easy; stand them on a firm surface and hit the rearmost nib of the knockout hard with a hammer and punch (or cold chisel). The rearmost nib mind, not the front one, as the rear one has the support of the back of the box to stop the box caving in. These are very satisfying to do! Churchill liked to lay bricks for relaxation - I could hammer out knockouts!

In cheap metal adaptable boxes the knockouts are horrible; they fall out as soon as you look at them.

The worst are those in thick gauge plastic boxes, where the knockout is sunk in a few mms, has no weak spots or nibs, and the hole has a thread leading up to the knockout. Just how to you get these out? You cant hammer them; they are too thick to cut with a knife, and if you use a hole saw or drill you risk ruining the thread.
 
We get a cheap brand of boards and sockets in at work, total nightmare to knockout - some sort of double/elongated hole.
With the socket back boxes if your not careful the whole box deforms when your trying to knock them out.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top