Zone control or other option???

Will I need to use a second 10 connection wiring centre?

With using the s plan plus it'll mean a lot of wires into the same terminals i.e. Live, Neutral and Earths.
There shouldn't be any need for a second wiring centre. There is a spare terminal on the 10 way (no 9) which can be used as a second neutral. Don't forget that each terminal number has two terminals.

The worst case is the Live, which has eight connections: Power In, Boiler live, HW prog live, 3 Valve grey, 2 CH stat lives. If you link two terminals, eg. 1 and 4, that's two wires to each actual terminal.

You could always buy a Drayton LWC3 wiring centre which has 12 terminal pairs. The LWC1 is not suitable.

I would tend to keep all similar terminals together, so assuming a 12 terminal box you would have:

1 & 2 linked: All Lives - Power IN, boiler, HW prog, 3 valve greys, 2 CH prog stats
3 & 4 linked: All Neutrals
5 & 6 linked: All Earth
7: Link Z1 stat to Z1 valve brown
8: Link Z2 Stat to Z2 valve brown
9: Link HW On to HW stat common
10: Link HW stat Call to HW valve brown
11 & 12 linked: Z1, Z2, HW Oranges and Boiler SW live
 
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Thank you once again for such a good reply :mrgreen:

I guess looking at you details that a 12 way would be more suitable over the existing 10 way I already have?

I haven't yet looked to see if a 10 way is possible.
 
Whilst two zones will enable you to heat the end of the house which you are occupying and a goos economy device its not the whole story.

You also need a programmable thermostat to only heat to a reduced setback temperature during the night. Eash zone needs its own prog stat but they only cost from £15 so dont have to be a fortune.

Do I gather your bedroom has a single skin into your garage? If so thats a dreadful loss of heat. You need to add about 100 mm. That could be sheets of the foam insulation board or battens and loft insulation suspended and held in place with plasterboard on the garage side.

That woulod greatly reduce the heat loss and cust costs and improve comfort and pay for itself within a year if the subsidised fibreglass was used at £3 for three rolls!

Tony
 
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You also need a programmable thermostat to only heat to a reduced setback temperature during the night. Eash zone needs its own prog stat but they only cost from £15 so dont have to be a fortune.
If you bothered to read through the complete topic you would find that the OP is intending to install Honeywell CM907 or CM927 programmable stats.

Who sells quality prog stats for £15???

OP

The latest wiring drawing you have done are correct for the CM907 (wired version). If you use the CM927 (wireless) you will need a Neutral for each receiver.
 
Can you have a look at these and see if they are right and look ok?
The only thing I would change is the description of the HW timer and HW stat terminals:

The top HW timer contact should be labelled ON
The bottom HW timer contact should be labelled OFF
The top HW stat contact should be labelled CALL
The bottom HW stat contact should be labelled SAT

I think it's fairly obvious if the contact is open or closed, so that may not need saying. ;)


How do you do the changes so quickly? Do you use Photoshop in your work?
 
The only thing I would change is the description of the HW timer and HW stat terminals:

The top HW timer contact should be labelled ON
The bottom HW timer contact should be labelled OFF
The top HW stat contact should be labelled CALL
The bottom HW stat contact should be labelled SAT

I think it's fairly obvious if the contact is open or closed, so that may not need saying. ;)
OK i'll make the necessary changes :D

How do you do the changes so quickly? Do you use Photoshop in your work?
Not work, just for fun ;)
 

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