45 amp cooker switch combined with socket?

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I read on the forum that some dislike a 45 amp cooker switch combined with a socket.

Is there any reason for this dislike?
 
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a socket used to be included in a cooker outlet in the days when kitchens did not have enough sockets. It allowed householders to drape the toaster flex over the hob to encourage fires and electrocutions.

You kitchen should have plenty of socket outlets without needing a huge cooker control with another.
 
i think its because of a possible extra 13amp load on possibly already over loaded cable/MCB..

not sure on that tho.
 
The diversity figures for a cooking appliance have to include 5 amp for any cooker switch with a socket.

Thing is the 6mm normal cable is likely to be near limits with the 5 amp figure added in, but show me a kettle that's 5 amp and I'll show you one that's 13 amp.

So there's still a good chance that the cooker socket when designed load and diversity is included may / could / will overload if a 13 amp load is used via the socket.
 
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Personally i prefer to use 10.0 mm when doing new installations, with a view to future proofing. The socket would not make much difference then. Please note< i do not normally use this type of switch.
 
It also forces you to RCD protect the cooker circuit. If the isolator does not include a socket, the circuit may not need to be on RCD (providing certain other criteria are met)
 
Get Enlabel to engrave it with the words "Not RCD protected. Not for general use"
 
What's the point of having the socket at all though if it isn't for general use?
 
Don't know yet.

But I've got one with a socket which I did plan to install, so I'm keen to find out because the cooker circuit won't be RCD protected.
 

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