Wiring a Cooker point

I'll just go for it with the 6 and see how I get on.

I still have an old 6 to replace with a 10 for the shower yet but I havent yet started on that part of the house. If I remember right a 8.5Kw shower is around 38.9A ? (might not be exact but I looked it up ages ago and I'll double check it) which is a bit close to the 40A of 6mm and its around a 9m run.
 
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Just as an aside, someone complained that electric hobs are c**p.

Tried Induction???

Look like normal ceramic hob, but they work by transferring the heat into the food, rather than directly heating the base of the pan (of course the pan gets hot, but indirectly).

The retailer did a demo for me 50 quid note inbetween pan & hob boiled a pan of water, note unharmed.

Eventually it would burn, but it demonstrated the heat transfer idea to a T.
 
Oh absolutely. They work a treat don't they?

Except with aluminium pans.

Or copper pans.

Or stainless steel pans with copper bases.

Or pyrolitic glass pans.

Or a proper round-bottomed wok an a stand.


No thanks :confused:


PS - they don't transfer the heat into the food, unless you eat iron filings - they work by generating induction currents in the base of the pan which therefore gets hot
 
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I've heard a few good remarks about halogen hobs......but as i dont cook, I dont know.......(not being sexist before someone jumps on me, its just I could burn a salad)
 
The cabaling went ok, that part of the kitchen turned out to be only just inside the house not in the extension so I managed to go over the top with very little hassle.

halogen hobs are an improvement but still not as responsive as gas.

Thanks for the help everyone

Allan
 
I have a fairly oldish cooker (Creda topline) but I don't know what rating it is. There's no indication and I don't have the instruction manual. I never purchased or installed it. It is protected by a 30amp cartridge fuse on an old fuse board. It's worked all these years without any incident (touch wood).

In the new unit I had installed there is a 32amp breaker in the non-rcd side for a cooker. Going on the fact that it is working fine now I will install new 6mm cable (I think the old one should be replaced as it's many years older than the cooker itself) to the new unit. If I can get hold of some specs it'd be easier.

I think your best bet is to go with 6mm minimum cable size whatever and protect it with a lower rated breaker.

edit: and looking at the post dates I'm a little late in replying. :)
 
Unless you have a stand-alone cooker which has everything combined into one unit, the supply should not need to go higher than 6mmsq T&E.

Some stand-alone cookers can have total ratings of up to 10.8kW and thus would need a larger supply.

It is always best to ask the advice of an Electrician in such circumstances, even if you do complete the work yourself.
 
I just found the manual to my cooker on the Creda website and it states that the maximum consumption is 10.5 to 11.5kw.

I've opted for 10mm2 cable and will initially be protecting it with a 32A breaker as the current fuse is 30A. If I receive any inconvenience I shall upgrade to to a 40A breaker. Also It's about time that I thought about buying a new cooker and it may use more power.
 
Well - a 30/32A breaker on a device that could draw nearly 50A will be an interesting practical test of the cooker diversity guidelines...
 
Well It seems strange to me also but the current fuse that is used on the old board that the cooker is connected to is 30A and has never gave any problems. However I think it's a rewirable job so I have a sneaky suspicion that it is actually rewired with higher capacity wire. Is this possible?
 
Extrasolar said:
Well It seems strange to me also but the current fuse that is used on the old board that the cooker is connected to is 30A and has never gave any problems. However I think it's a rewirable job so I have a sneaky suspicion that it is actually rewired with higher capacity wire. Is this possible?

That may be the case, but there is also the fusing factor to take into account.

Rewirable fuses do not blow at 30A, or whatever their respective rating is. They will comfortable hold a load indefinetly up to 1.4 times their rated current, for short periods up to 1.7 times, and under overload conditions will hold until 1.9 times their rated load for very short periods, but will usually fail at that point.

This was one of the main reasons why BS3036 fuses were outlawed from being installed a number of years ago.

You get fusing factors with all protective devices, but rewirable fuses are simply the pits.
 
FWL_Engineer said:
This was one of the main reasons why BS3036 fuses were outlawed from being installed a number of years ago.

BS 3036 (Rewirable) Fuses Are Not "Outlawed"
In Fact, They Are The "Prefered" Protective Device In a Lot Of Commercial/Industrial Applications

Having Said That.......I Would Never Recommend BS3036 Fuses In The Domestic Installation,

This Is My "1%" Diversity :eek:
 
paulh53 said:
FWL_Engineer said:
This was one of the main reasons why BS3036 fuses were outlawed from being installed a number of years ago.

BS 3036 (Rewirable) Fuses Are Not "Outlawed"
In Fact, They Are The "Prefered" Protective Device In a Lot Of Commercial/Industrial Applications

Having Said That.......I Would Never Recommend BS3036 Fuses In The Domestic Installation,

This Is My "1%" Diversity :eek:

Total rubbish is my only comment to that.

Whilst it may not be "illegal" to have rewirable fuses, it is a breach of the regulations to install them, this is why you cannot buy consumer units or distribution boards with BS3036 fuse carriers anymore.

In older building you maywell find rewirable fuses, but not often.

As for Industrial, you use either BS88, BS1361 fuses or MCB's or MCCB's.

Commercial premises will likely only have MCB's, but in some situations you find some of the other protective devices.
 

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