Fair enough. I remain a little surprised that they are apparently as 'reliable' as you are reporting, but I don't think I have anything new to say.
Kind Regards, John
AC series-wiring special dimmer switch/remote control, but lights no longer come on
- Thread starter carl0s
- Start date
Kind Regards, John
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Bit better ? and yes, i pulled up some of the flooring that's only been in for a few months. I think I got lucky getting it up without damaging it, as it's secret nailed.
the white 'flex' that was damaged, which as I said, came from a kitchen socket, then up into this room, and was only live from the socket, well this was indeed sat in a junction box all by itself up here.. not connected to anything, so that's gone. Also found another 6mm t&e that looked like it used to feed an electric shower, and was also attached to nothing, so that's out of the way.
The other 'big cable with a hole through the middle' was the 6mm T&E to the cooker. It came from a 30A white junction box which was under the oak flooring that isn't so easy to remove. I replaced that junction box with a Wagobox and their 42A connectors (24a for earth). I think these are downrated to ~32A when classified as maintenance free. I used the same wago stuff where I joined to replace the other end of the cable due to the hole through it.
At least I can run my fire alarm wire to the burglar alarm now like I wanted to. The flooring was in the way for that too.
Here's that bad cooker cable that drove me to pull up the oak flooring. I had moved most of the cables and got them running through holes in the joists within the room itself, but not out on the landing, and I couldn't replace this damaged bit of cable without pulling up the nice flooring on the landing as it was right on the edge by the door (hence the Wagobox right by the door).
the white 'flex' that was damaged, which as I said, came from a kitchen socket, then up into this room, and was only live from the socket, well this was indeed sat in a junction box all by itself up here.. not connected to anything, so that's gone. Also found another 6mm t&e that looked like it used to feed an electric shower, and was also attached to nothing, so that's out of the way.
The other 'big cable with a hole through the middle' was the 6mm T&E to the cooker. It came from a 30A white junction box which was under the oak flooring that isn't so easy to remove. I replaced that junction box with a Wagobox and their 42A connectors (24a for earth). I think these are downrated to ~32A when classified as maintenance free. I used the same wago stuff where I joined to replace the other end of the cable due to the hole through it.
At least I can run my fire alarm wire to the burglar alarm now like I wanted to. The flooring was in the way for that too.
Here's that bad cooker cable that drove me to pull up the oak flooring. I had moved most of the cables and got them running through holes in the joists within the room itself, but not out on the landing, and I couldn't replace this damaged bit of cable without pulling up the nice flooring on the landing as it was right on the edge by the door (hence the Wagobox right by the door).
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Good work chap- been a pain for you investigating that but at least now you won't be fretting about random bits of cable under the floor.
Just need to sort your meter cupboard out now.......
Just need to sort your meter cupboard out now.......
Good work chap- been a pain for you investigating that but at least now you won't be fretting about random bits of cable under the floor.
Just need to sort your meter cupboard out now.......
Yeah, I've been thinking about that....
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Time to grasp the nettle and do something about it- it isn't a DIY job, you may be able to save yourself some cash by buying the bits in yourself but that depends on the electrician you choose to do the work (I was lucky). Up here (Northeast) you'd be looking at £150 or so to regularise your existing setup, add another £50 or so to replace those 2 switch fuses with a nice modern CU with RCBOs in it. (That £150 assumes that no nasties emerge when the final circuits are tested). Don't worry too much about replacing the main CU on the right- as long as you're not adding things to it it is still acceptable. If you're lucky, your electricity supplier will fit an isolator after the meter (when they're called in to isolate so the work can be done)Yeah, I've been thinking about that....
Couldn't do it myself anyway as I can't disconnect the tails from the meter without breaking their tamper seal. Which begs the question... who fitted this 2.5mm tail? It had to be the electricity company / meter person, surely?
Other than that, I'd probably attempt changing the tails myself. I understand the risk of electric shock / death etc, but if one was to remove from the meter side first, and connect to the meter side last, this would be minimised. I often change lightswitches and sockets without turning the power off. Carefully. Should I get my coat.. ?
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WTF?
WTF?
WTF?
WTF?
WTF?
WTF?
Get yourself an EICR ASAP!!
Show the spark the photos of what you have found so far...
I often change lightswitches and sockets without turning the power off. Carefully. Should I get my coat.. ?
Yes, get your coat. I don't want to read any more of this, it will give me nightmares. >IGNORE<
My mum used to proudly tell my primary school teacher that I'd wired up the shed with lights. In this day and age she'd get a visit from a social worker and I'd get a *******ing
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