Adding external light to electric garage door opener
- Thread starter dstill
- Start date
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Okay.
So that suggests that the Relay_Module works.
I think that the issue then is the 12V Signal Line.
My question is "are you sure the Signal Line on the Motor_Module is going from 0V to 12V when the door opens"
and then
"are you sure the cable is properly taking the signal from the Motor_Module to the Relay Module.
Your next test is to test to see it the Signal Line on the Motor_Module is changing.
I know you said it was before - but I think you need to re-test it (it might only be going to say 5V).
This test is to see if, and when, and for how long, and at what voltage the signal line goes high for.
1) Keep everything connected as it is.
Meaning the Relay_Module is connected to the Motor_Module using the 3 wire cable.
Put Your Multimeter onto '20V' 'DCV' setting.
Put Black Multimeter cable onto the 'GND' screw head of the Relay_Module and
Put Red Multimeter cable onto the 'IN' screw head (middle one I think) of the Relay_Module.
You should see 0V.
Open the Door.
Do you see voltage increase to 12V for duration of door opening (this is what you should see).
OR
Is something else happening??? (examples are 5V , or a pulse of 12V for very short time, or 12V for door opening and then a longer delay)
OR
Does it stay at 0V (in which case go back and check the pins on the Motor_Module, and see if you read this wrong before or if the cable has an issue).
SFK
So that suggests that the Relay_Module works.
I think that the issue then is the 12V Signal Line.
My question is "are you sure the Signal Line on the Motor_Module is going from 0V to 12V when the door opens"
and then
"are you sure the cable is properly taking the signal from the Motor_Module to the Relay Module.
Your next test is to test to see it the Signal Line on the Motor_Module is changing.
I know you said it was before - but I think you need to re-test it (it might only be going to say 5V).
This test is to see if, and when, and for how long, and at what voltage the signal line goes high for.
1) Keep everything connected as it is.
Meaning the Relay_Module is connected to the Motor_Module using the 3 wire cable.
Put Your Multimeter onto '20V' 'DCV' setting.
Put Black Multimeter cable onto the 'GND' screw head of the Relay_Module and
Put Red Multimeter cable onto the 'IN' screw head (middle one I think) of the Relay_Module.
You should see 0V.
Open the Door.
Do you see voltage increase to 12V for duration of door opening (this is what you should see).
OR
Is something else happening??? (examples are 5V , or a pulse of 12V for very short time, or 12V for door opening and then a longer delay)
OR
Does it stay at 0V (in which case go back and check the pins on the Motor_Module, and see if you read this wrong before or if the cable has an issue).
SFK
Apologies for the delay but only got a chance to do the tests today.
Basically the results are as follows:
Left and middle terminals on main circuit board give me 12v when door is not opening and when door is opening
Left and right terminals are exactly the same, 12v when door is not opening and when it is opening.
Basically the results are as follows:
Left and middle terminals on main circuit board give me 12v when door is not opening and when door is opening
Left and right terminals are exactly the same, 12v when door is not opening and when it is opening.
Any ideas with these results guys?
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Note to SFK (OP ignore this)....
Maybe the output needs to have a load on it, to pull it down and make a difference to the volts when door operating versus not operating?
@Harry, yes might be the case, but that does surprise me. And extra complex to put a pull down resistor in there.
Makes me itch as want to test it myself.
@dstill,
Sorry for slow response.
Harry makes a good (and worrying point).
But I am confused - Before you said (when Relay Module was NOT connected):
I tested the middle connection and it is a switched live. When garage door opens the Middle Terminal goes to 12V and stays at 12V until the led courtesy light go off.
You are now saying (when Relay Module IS connected):
Left (GND) to Middle terminal (Switched 12V) on main circuit board give me 12v when door is not opening and when door is opening.
And worse - at no time has the SwitchedLibve being at 12V caused the Relay_Board to activate the relay.
I am stumped and I have no real answer or solution without putting your Motor_board at risk.
The solution Harry mentions and I would (with slight worries) suggest is to put one 1M ohm resistor or one 100k ohm resistor between the Switched Live and Ground terminals on the Relay Board (the high resistor value is suggested as less likely to damage Motor_Board.
This resistor is to 'pull' the Switched live to Ground when door is not opening.
But as the Switched 12V is not Activating the relay anyway - I am not happy that this will work.
Resistor selection pack is here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Resistor...818205?hash=item23eef3eb1d:g:2dQAAOSw1i9gKsS3
BUT if you PM me your address I will post you a 1M ohm resistor and a 100k ohm resistor free of charge (less environmentally damaging than you having hundreds of resistors).
Before that, please can you reconfirm that:
- When Relay Module is NOT connected, the Middle Terminal (Switched 12V) on motor_board is normally at 0V, goes to 12V and stays at 12V as door opens (plus a bit longer). And then goes back to 0V.
and
- When Relay Module IS connected, the Middle terminal (Switched 12V) on motor_board is at 12v when door is not opening AND is at 12V when door is opening. It is always at 12V and it never goes to 0V.
Makes me itch as want to test it myself.
@dstill,
Sorry for slow response.
Harry makes a good (and worrying point).
But I am confused - Before you said (when Relay Module was NOT connected):
I tested the middle connection and it is a switched live. When garage door opens the Middle Terminal goes to 12V and stays at 12V until the led courtesy light go off.
You are now saying (when Relay Module IS connected):
Left (GND) to Middle terminal (Switched 12V) on main circuit board give me 12v when door is not opening and when door is opening.
And worse - at no time has the SwitchedLibve being at 12V caused the Relay_Board to activate the relay.
I am stumped and I have no real answer or solution without putting your Motor_board at risk.
The solution Harry mentions and I would (with slight worries) suggest is to put one 1M ohm resistor or one 100k ohm resistor between the Switched Live and Ground terminals on the Relay Board (the high resistor value is suggested as less likely to damage Motor_Board.
This resistor is to 'pull' the Switched live to Ground when door is not opening.
But as the Switched 12V is not Activating the relay anyway - I am not happy that this will work.
Resistor selection pack is here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Resistor...818205?hash=item23eef3eb1d:g:2dQAAOSw1i9gKsS3
BUT if you PM me your address I will post you a 1M ohm resistor and a 100k ohm resistor free of charge (less environmentally damaging than you having hundreds of resistors).
Before that, please can you reconfirm that:
- When Relay Module is NOT connected, the Middle Terminal (Switched 12V) on motor_board is normally at 0V, goes to 12V and stays at 12V as door opens (plus a bit longer). And then goes back to 0V.
and
- When Relay Module IS connected, the Middle terminal (Switched 12V) on motor_board is at 12v when door is not opening AND is at 12V when door is opening. It is always at 12V and it never goes to 0V.
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SFK, please don't apologise, I genuinely appreciate any and all help given so far from yourself and other contributors.
I'll do the tests again to make sure I have done these correctly and report the results accordingly. I've bought new cables for my multi-meter as I realised part way through testing one of them was damaged so maybe this has been why I've had some random results.
I'll do the tests again to make sure I have done these correctly and report the results accordingly. I've bought new cables for my multi-meter as I realised part way through testing one of them was damaged so maybe this has been why I've had some random results.
Ok guys, I tested the connections again very carefully and results as follows
Left terminal - Negative
Middle terminal - Constantly 12v, regardless of motor operation
Right terminal - Constantly 12v, regardless of motor operation
I must have messed up when I first tested the middle terminal saying it was a switched live!
I came across this diagram from Gliderol which shows the option interface board that can be purchased to add an external light, please ignore the hand written notes.
Left terminal - Negative
Middle terminal - Constantly 12v, regardless of motor operation
Right terminal - Constantly 12v, regardless of motor operation
I must have messed up when I first tested the middle terminal saying it was a switched live!
I came across this diagram from Gliderol which shows the option interface board that can be purchased to add an external light, please ignore the hand written notes.
Attachments
My suspicion, which I mentioned earlier, is that the output is what is known as a form of 'open collector'. Either the the Middle, or Right 12v is an open collector output. The output will always be at 12v unless a load is applied to it. I would try connecting a 1Kohm resistor between each of those terminals and ground, as what is known as a 'pull-down', then with your meter see what happens to the 12v as your light / door is triggered. If there is no change, even slight on one terminal compared to the other, then that suggests the output is damaged.
An easier way to have a mains light come on in the garage, when ever you enter it - is a PIR operated light, these are not expensive.
Hi Harry, apologies for the ignorance but if i did the test with the resistor and there was a change would this mean there would be a way of adding the external light.
Its not a light I need for inside the garage, its just a small light I want to connect externally so when I press the door open button on my fob I can visually see the light come on to confirm the door is opening as I cannot see the actual garage door itself from the house.
Its not a light I need for inside the garage, its just a small light I want to connect externally so when I press the door open button on my fob I can visually see the light come on to confirm the door is opening as I cannot see the actual garage door itself from the house.
Sorry I hadn't quite grasped what you were trying to achieve....
I think you are saying there is already some sort of light in the unit? Mine has 6x superbright LED's which come on and remain on for a while after the door has been operated - If your is similar to mine and all you need is an indicator, could you not disconnect one of the LED's, then extend where it was connected on the PCB with a pair of wires to the house, then refit the removed LED in the house?
If you must use your 'extender' gadget....
Attach a 1k resistor to the terminal you know to be 0v/ -ve and one of the 12v terminals, then measure the voltage across the resistor with your meter as the door is operated.
Repeat the above but with the resistor as above, but connected to the other 12v terminal. Which ever one shows a change in voltage, is the output terminal. The one which doesn't change is the actual 12v terminal.
I think you are saying there is already some sort of light in the unit? Mine has 6x superbright LED's which come on and remain on for a while after the door has been operated - If your is similar to mine and all you need is an indicator, could you not disconnect one of the LED's, then extend where it was connected on the PCB with a pair of wires to the house, then refit the removed LED in the house?
If you must use your 'extender' gadget....
Attach a 1k resistor to the terminal you know to be 0v/ -ve and one of the 12v terminals, then measure the voltage across the resistor with your meter as the door is operated.
Repeat the above but with the resistor as above, but connected to the other 12v terminal. Which ever one shows a change in voltage, is the output terminal. The one which doesn't change is the actual 12v terminal.
What brand & model door do you have. If yours is also a Gliderol then ring them and ask for the technical dept. Although dstil says he did not find them helpful my experience of them has always been excellent. Look at there website first though & download your user guide to familiarise yourself with your model & the available accessories . They don't have time to hold your hand but do give good advice.
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