Adding extra sockets to a ring

[ajrobb]

As far as chasing out is concerned it would all be low down on the wall and behind desks i.e unseen.

I am concerned/confused, are the sockets going low down on the wall too?

The chases must be horizontal or vertical between visible boxes (sockets etc) or within 150mm of an internal corner or ceiling. Ideally, the bottom of the sockets should be at least 450mm above the floor and the top of sockets should be less than 1200mm above the floor. Otherwise they can be at the same level as existing sockets.

Easi-fil, a plastic spreader and sandpaper should bring chases up to existing surface. A coat of paint from a roller should make them invisible. I did a few last year and I couldn't see them under any light.

 

[Paul_C]

Ideally, the bottom of the sockets should be at least 450mm above the floor and the top of sockets should be less than 1200mm above the floor. Otherwise they can be at the same level as existing sockets.

They can be at any height you please. Put them where they'll be the most convenient, bearing in mind ease of wiring as well as ease of use afterward.

 

[ajrobb]

From OSG: "7.5.1 Height of switches, socket-outlets, etc. in dwellings (Part M)"

"A way of satisfying this requirement is to install socket-outlets and controls throughout the dwelling at a height of between 450 mm and 1200 mm from the finished floor level."

"Note that if a dwelling is rewired there is no requirement to provide the measures described above providing that upon completion the building is no worse in terms of the level of compliance with the other Parts of Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations."

 

[SteveCav]

The sockets will go at the same level as the existing socket i.e. just above the skirting.

If I go down the dado trunking route then I will run it just above desk height for ease of use

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As far as chasing out is concerned it would all be low down on the wall and behind desks i.e unseen.

Even less of a reason to object to something like this running along the wall unseen, surely?

A lot less work to install, a lot less damage to the decor, a lot more flexible and a lot easier to remove if ever the purpose of the room changes.

The room is painted not wallpapered and chases will show through the light coloured paint - been here before! Hence chasing vertically from the CU is not ideal for me.

Heavy duty lining paper, painted over, hides a multitude of sins....

Or....

I keep coming back to the thought that this is an office, with IT hardware in it, and a CU on the wall, not the front parlour. If you go for dado trunking you could extend it up the wall by using one of these:

you might also find a vertical run useful for accessible sockets and/or switches.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

From OSG: "7.5.1 Height of switches, socket-outlets, etc. in dwellings (Part M)"

"A way of satisfying this requirement is to install socket-outlets and controls throughout the dwelling at a height of between 450 mm and 1200 mm from the finished floor level."

Yes.

If Part M applies.

Which it doesn't.

 

[Paul_C]

From OSG: "7.5.1 Height of switches, socket-outlets, etc. in dwellings (Part M)"

Part M of the Building Regs. is not applicable in this situation.

PART M ACCESS TO AND USE OF BUILDINGS

{.....}

The requirements of this Part do not apply to:

(a) an extension of or material alteration of a dwelling

http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/2214/schedule/1/made

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If I go down the dado trunking route then I will run it just above desk height for ease of use

Well that's where it's best - I thought putting it lower would be a good compromise for Mrs Cav....

 

[ajrobb]

Please remember, I only said "Ideally". Even though there is no compulsion to follow Part M in an existing domestic study, you can still use its advice when deciding on new socket heights. However, it might be wrong to put new sockets lower than the existing socket.

 

[Paul_C]

However, it might be wrong to put new sockets lower than the existing socket.

Why?

 

[ajrobb]

"Note that if a dwelling is rewired there is no requirement to provide the measures described above providing that upon completion the building is no worse in terms of the level of compliance with the other Parts of Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations."

 

[Paul_C]

That's just from the on-site guide to BS7671. It's not the law.

But it clearly states other parts of the Building Regs. anyway, acknowledging that Part M is not applicable.

 

[ajrobb]

Well, I look at regulations as the minimum you have to do to avoid prosecution. Also, regulations must be wrong, otherwise they wouldn't need changing. Best practice is something different and less well defined.

 

[SimonH2]

I have 11 appliances to connect, consisting of: -

1 screen, 2 PCs, 2 Servers, 1 router, 1 switch, 1 Vodafone Sure Signal box, a cordless telephone and another homeplug in the extension (soon to be removed).

Personally I'd be putting a big chunk of those on the UPS as well.

Yes, I've seen setups where the server is protected, but not the external hard drive used for backups (so the drive can get corrupted if the lights go off), or the screen isn't protected (so you can't log on to manually shut stuff down if needed), or the network switch isn't protected (so other devices lose a network connection they may need (eg save a file mounted off a server) for a clean shutdown).
I'd probably put the PCs on the UPS as well - it's darned annoying to lose your work

In my back room I've two servers, screen, tape drive, network switch, and modem - all off one UPS and using one socket on the wall.

It does need a larger UPS, but with that amount of kit I suspect that's either already there or wouldn't be a big problem. I've been lucky in being able to recycle UPSs that customers have asked us to get rid off - often they've only needed new batteries The aforementioned UPS is a 1500VA unit that only needed new batteries, and mother's computer downstairs is on a 1kVA unit (yes it's a tad oversized) that was similarly acquired. Mother's computer is on a UPS for when the RCD in the CU trips - unintended consequences of safety measures

You don't need wall sockets for stuff on the UPS. I find it handy to take the 13A plug off a 6 way short extension and fit an IEC320 plug on it to fit the UPS - otherwise power bricks are a pain.

 

[SteveCav]

I thought of putting the 2 PCs on the UPS but as you correctly say I'll need a bigger UPS. I thought of a 1500VA but going up to 2200AV costs considerably more.

I nearly bought one off Ebay and thought of replacing the battery but didn't go through with it.

Although losing the PCs would be a pain, everything is backed up to the Servers (they are headless) and there are another 3 PCs in the house (2 of which are laptops).

Which UPS do you use? I was going for an APC Smart-UPS 1500AV but am concerned how I would shutdown both Servers when battery level reaches, say 50%.

I know you can trigger the Master socket to shutdown Server 1 (via USB) and then on this Server shutting down the Slave socket would also - but will it give the 2nd Server sufficient time to shutdown or simply knock off the power? As yet unsure. I am also aware there is a network card available, which will do the job but at over £150 a tad expensive

I'll tot up the power usage for all the bits and see what size UPS is required and take it from there.

You mention that you use an extension lead and replace the 13A plug with an IEC320 to put all the peripheral stuff on - aren't these rated to 10A not 13A? I accept that totaling up the router, switch, telephone, VSS & PCs will not reach 10A but just a thought.